Proper cam timing installation....

[latham83]

heyy..about to slap in my e-303 cam and timing chain...
what i know from so far is you have to lube up the cam with prelube..which i have...then...my cams getting advanced 4*...so u line up the dot on the top gear with the 4* mark on the bottom gear correct...while the cranks on tdc..which would just be the keyway facing up and the number piston all the way at the top correct...my engines on a stand by the way..everything is new...
is that all u have to know..is have the number one piston at the very top..and bolt eveythin up..and then u can turn the crank and everything will be set and stay there right....please add to this...thanks guys...
just walk me through it so its everything is ready for the next step..which woudl be putting on the damper and everythign else that slides on the crank..right...?
any tips on that

 

[latham83]

no help??

 

[firehart2]

That sounds about right. In order to install the cam at precisely at 4*, you will need a cam degree kit. This will give you all of the timing information you will need for that particular camshaft.

, Jodie

 

[latham83]

do u really NNEEEDD a cam degree it..if u do what i said..that should be prettty acurate right? i mean id ont think alot of ppl actually go the extra step and check the realy actual timing with this kit or whatever do they...not very much?
btw..does anything else at all get prelube except the lifters and cam???

 

[firehart2]

No you don't really need a degree kit but it helps with finding the true centerline of the cam, max lift with your rockers, etc. I usually install most of my cams straight up and have very good results. You really don't have to install the E-cam advanced at all. But the only way that you will get it at a true 4* is by degreeing it. Have you ever considered going with a TFS Stage1? It to have a more broad torque curve and has really good low-speed drivability.


I usually use Lucas oil treatment on my rockers and push rod ends amd the stardard lube on my camshaft and lifters.

, Jodie

 

[latham83]

thanks dude..hey im doing a lower manifold swap today..and ya know how all those sensors, and then heater tubers screw in with threads...what kinda of sealnt sould i put on there..just some starndard locktite i assume?
whats the proper way to pop off the pintle caps on the injectors..i have new kits

 

[Smokedawg]

I would suggest a degree kit if you want to be precise.. I didnt degree in my B-cam when I had it, just threw it in straight up and had good results..Are you running a auto or manual?

 

[latham83]

auto with a tough rebuild on it and shift kit, 2400 stall converter...

 

[latham83]

im doing a lower manifold swap today..and ya know how all those sensors, and then heater tubers screw in with threads...what kinda of sealnt sould i put on there..just some starndard locktite i assume?
whats the proper way to pop off the pintle caps on the injectors..i have new kits

 

[latham83]

man its tough to get an asnwer lol?

 

[wildstang347]

well without actually degreeing it properly with a degree wheel the actual cam can vary between 1 to 2 degrees in either direction.
but sure you can drop it in the way you describe and be pretty close. also you realize by advanceing it instead of straight up it lowers your powerband bringing on the power quicker but also reduceing your max RPM range as a side effect. tradeing high end power for low end grunt.
does your cam card you got with the cam recommend 4 advanced?

 

[latham83]

nope thumper reccomended it

 

[wildstang347]

lots of people will do as thumper suggested in order to make the cam more streetable with better manners by makeing it more responsive in lower RPM range compared as to straight up. theres absolutely nothing wrong doing it, but was pointing out you trade off upper HP for TQ is all.