I am in the process of trying to figure out what I want to do about getting traction. My right leaf spring looks like it is bowed or twisted outward on the passanger side of the car and all of the rubber is rotted and looks original to the car. I am considering two options which would both include weld in frame connectors.
1. I could buy new leaf springs, drag shocks, and lift bars, but wanted to know how effective this setup is and what the limitations are. Is it the bushings and pads between the housing and leaf springs that are hard to find replacements for?
2. Maybe a pipe dream, but you never know. Remove the leaf springs, open up the wheel wells another 2 or 3 inches under the car, build a half frame, and install a 3 link system. I inquired about a 3 link from a company and got the following responce:
We have two links that attach at the front to the front leaf spring purchase and at the axle they pass through a block that attaches to the axle. The coilover is attached to the rear of the axle block. The third link attaches on the right to the inside of the frame and on the left to the Axle block. This third link keeps the axle centered. The upper coilover mount is a u-shaped bracket that attaches to the outside of the frame rail. The problem with using this on a stock Mustang II is the car has unit body construction so the frame rail is inadequate to attach the coilover and centering link to. You would have to beef the unit body frame up to handle the increased load.
We designed this to be installed on Kit cars and Street Rods which used the rear leaf spring system from the Mustang II. These cars have a full frame to handle the loads that accompany this system.
I wrote back asking for more information and got this responce.
Look directly above the rear of the axle above the leaf spring. What is there to attach the upper mount of the coilover to?? The centerline of the upper coilover mount will be about 2.5 inches back from the rear of the axle tube. We also connect the right end of the centering link to the inside of the frame at the same mounting bolt of the upper coilover mount. I suspect you will need to add structural strength to the frame at this point to support the coilover load.
Anybody done something like this? Is this a good option? Pictures? The car is a weekend toy that does see some street use.
1. I could buy new leaf springs, drag shocks, and lift bars, but wanted to know how effective this setup is and what the limitations are. Is it the bushings and pads between the housing and leaf springs that are hard to find replacements for?
2. Maybe a pipe dream, but you never know. Remove the leaf springs, open up the wheel wells another 2 or 3 inches under the car, build a half frame, and install a 3 link system. I inquired about a 3 link from a company and got the following responce:
We have two links that attach at the front to the front leaf spring purchase and at the axle they pass through a block that attaches to the axle. The coilover is attached to the rear of the axle block. The third link attaches on the right to the inside of the frame and on the left to the Axle block. This third link keeps the axle centered. The upper coilover mount is a u-shaped bracket that attaches to the outside of the frame rail. The problem with using this on a stock Mustang II is the car has unit body construction so the frame rail is inadequate to attach the coilover and centering link to. You would have to beef the unit body frame up to handle the increased load.
We designed this to be installed on Kit cars and Street Rods which used the rear leaf spring system from the Mustang II. These cars have a full frame to handle the loads that accompany this system.
I wrote back asking for more information and got this responce.
Look directly above the rear of the axle above the leaf spring. What is there to attach the upper mount of the coilover to?? The centerline of the upper coilover mount will be about 2.5 inches back from the rear of the axle tube. We also connect the right end of the centering link to the inside of the frame at the same mounting bolt of the upper coilover mount. I suspect you will need to add structural strength to the frame at this point to support the coilover load.
Anybody done something like this? Is this a good option? Pictures? The car is a weekend toy that does see some street use.
