Which Subframe connector?????
- Thread starter 97GTSTANG
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Barjam said:
If the subframes in the Cobra verts are the same as those in a GT vert than the answer is definitely yes, it would be worth it! The stock sfc's just don't do a damn thing - they bolt in and really have no substance to them.
Just my opinion, but I noticed a huge improvement over the factory pieces.
Jay
I got Maximum Motorsport Full lengths welded in and IMO they are a great mod. Took the squeaks out of my uppper and lower control arms and eliminated a lot of rattles. Made a huge difference in corning and even pulling out of my drive way "steep angle". Paid $125 for the SFC and $155 for the labor and welding. I recommend having someone with experience do the welding. Had mine installed at XMP http://www.x-m-p.com in OC. They were very careful not ot overheat the frames, no carpet burns and made sure the doors closed properly after tack welding.
2013 Geee T
Founding Member
I had the Kenny Brown Super Subs on my 01 and loved them. I could tell the difference when going around a corner. The car stayed more "flat". I paid $100 to have them welded in at the muffler shop.
Well so far i have heard that i should either get the MM Full length of the Kenny Brown supersubs. The KB supersubs are a little cheapter, does it matter what material they are made with. most are steel i think. what do they have to paint it with to prevent rust?
Thanks again guys
Thanks again guys
lgndracer
New Member
GDawg said:
This is the same set up I am looking at for mine. Any one else have this? Opinions?
Mike
01GT eibach
Active Member
Both are good products. The MM are full length, while the KB's are regular length. With full length, it will cost more to get them welded in -- also, some people have had clearance issues with some types of full length SFC's when lowered (I don't know which types). The MM's will clearly offer more rigidity, but (IMO) the KB's are very good for the moderate street car.97GTSTANG said:
what about these subframes for $35
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2474881445&category=42609
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2474881445&category=42609
pinski
Founding Member
97GTSTANG said:
Remember, 9 times out of 10 you get what you pay for. I've never heard of this "CGS" or whatever, and they might be okay, but I would go with a more trusted product, especially with the expense of getting them installed.
02 Sonic Blue
Founding Member
never heard of them, you get what you pay for though. what about just the FRPP subframes, i found them on ebay for like 45 + shipping. Blue oval performance has them...
02 Sonic Blue
Founding Member
http://www.steeda.com/
check out the new steeda Full length subfram connectors. They are only $119, i just ordered those.
Those are prob all i wil lneed. i am sure the car will drive better and take turns better.
check out the new steeda Full length subfram connectors. They are only $119, i just ordered those.
Those are prob all i wil lneed. i am sure the car will drive better and take turns better.
bird
Founding Member
Just my .02
1) You want a sub-frame connector to be as wide as the mounting point on the car. Because from what I have learned, welding the sub-frame connector to the uni-body at the corners is the strongest point. Welding any sub-frame connector to the under side of the uni-body (meaning the flat part) will be prone to more flexing. Example Kenney Brown mounts to the underside of the uni-body. It does not meet the full with of the uni-body. I'm not trying to flame you KB owners out there. This is just the truth. There still not a bad sub-frame connector. But for the price I think the money is better spent on the Griggs SF for $89 or the MM SF.
2) When you install or you bring the car to a shop to have the sub-frames welded in. Make sure that the weight of the car is supported by the wheels and not by the uni-body. The car is designed to supported it's own weight by the wheels. Jacking the car up at uni-body will cause the body to shift, which might cause the doors, and body panels to be miss-aligned.
Do it once, Do it right.
Rob
1) You want a sub-frame connector to be as wide as the mounting point on the car. Because from what I have learned, welding the sub-frame connector to the uni-body at the corners is the strongest point. Welding any sub-frame connector to the under side of the uni-body (meaning the flat part) will be prone to more flexing. Example Kenney Brown mounts to the underside of the uni-body. It does not meet the full with of the uni-body. I'm not trying to flame you KB owners out there. This is just the truth. There still not a bad sub-frame connector. But for the price I think the money is better spent on the Griggs SF for $89 or the MM SF.
2) When you install or you bring the car to a shop to have the sub-frames welded in. Make sure that the weight of the car is supported by the wheels and not by the uni-body. The car is designed to supported it's own weight by the wheels. Jacking the car up at uni-body will cause the body to shift, which might cause the doors, and body panels to be miss-aligned.
Do it once, Do it right.
Rob
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