Installed fire wall adjuster, now clutch is at the top, HELP!

Well, it's a pain having the clutch engage right up top, and I think you're right about the OEM cable stretching, it's not going to give me 3" any time soon. Tomorrow I'm going to reinstall it on the second hook, nearer to the firewall.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


So, you have the FWA screwed all the way counter clockwise? And you can't turn it clockwise to bring the clutch pedal down because if you did you would have too much slack in the cable? Is that right? I have a single hook alluminum quadrant and my cable seems a bit too short?
 
Look Its Aaron said:
Someone please post pics of the stock routing of the clutch cable or describe it to me.
Comes off the firewall, makes a loop right before the ps pump, and runs right along the oil pan to the bellhousing. There's really only one way that it will go using less than five four letter words, that's the way you want.
 
AzDropTop said:
So, you have the FWA screwed all the way counter clockwise? And you can't turn it clockwise to bring the clutch pedal down because if you did you would have too much slack in the cable? Is that right? I have a single hook alluminum quadrant and my cable seems a bit too short?
Not sure what you're saying your situation is.
 
Get rid of that fire wall thing they are junk.I had a bbk one and if you pulled up on the clutch pedal it would un adjust. The clutch always slipped out of adjustment with that it was total crap and i dont reccomend one to anybody. the best thing i did have was the bbk ajustable cable and aluminum quadrant.
 
:bs: You're kidding, right? That's like saying "don't buy those stupid leather coats, I got a leather coat once from Walmart and it fell apart in no time."
Believe it or not, (as with almost all aftermarket parts) they are not all created equal. BBK, in particular, is hardly the quality standard for the industry in any of their product line. Furthurmore, almost all firewall adjusters these days come with a double lock, many including a stud that literally screws into the cable base so that changing adjustment would be impossible.
 
astronut1885 said:
Hey guys. I found out why I've been having trouble shifting my car. I routed the adjustable cable I got from Summit totally wrong and it was binding. I had gotten an aluminum quadrant from them too, so that's already on the car. Today I installed a UPR extreme double locking fire wall adjuster and an OEM cable to replace the stretched/warped summit piece. I got it all hooked up, and the FWA is bottomed out, no extra tension added, and my clutch grabs right at the top of the pedal and there's no play in the pedal. Should I just drive it like that until the cable stretches or what? I like my clutch to grab lower than this, I'm hoping the clutch is engaging all the way under there and that I'm not going to smoke it. Any help would be great!

So did you turn the fwa clockwise? This should loosen the tension on the cable and lower your clutch.
 
stangbear427 said:
:bs: You're kidding, right? That's like saying "don't buy those stupid leather coats, I got a leather coat once from Walmart and it fell apart in no time."
Believe it or not, (as with almost all aftermarket parts) they are not all created equal. BBK, in particular, is hardly the quality standard for the industry in any of their product line. Furthurmore, almost all firewall adjusters these days come with a double lock, many including a stud that literally screws into the cable base so that changing adjustment would be impossible.

By saying that my cable was short I ment that I was having a hard time getting the FWA/TOB placement correct. In other words per MM the TOB should be just off of the clutch fingers so that the TOB doesn't spin continuously. With the FWA turned clockwise you loosen up the cable and thus the clutch fork/TOB come away from the clutch fingers. The problem is that if the clutch cable is too loose the clutch will not engauge corretly(too low near the firewall) and if the cable is too tight the Clutch fork/TOB will be in constant contact with the cluth fingers. I had to play with the adjustment a while but finally got it right. IMO The clutch fork should have an internal spring to help pull the clutch fork/TOB away from the clutch fingers when the clutch pedal is not depressed, but Ford designed the clutch to have a preload at all times. (Shane Roberts has a neat fix for this on his website-smart guy!)Anyway, my problem is handled now. thanks! :)
 
Now I see what you meant. That's pretty much what I would have recommended, getting it right just takes patience. I have found that sometimes the single pickup quadrants don't work out right with stock style cables, and so as a rule I don't bother with them anymore but in most cases I think they are alright if the clutch is good. I've never had one I couldn't make work well with the UPR triple pickup and FWA yet, but I heard that the Canadian company that supplied all the OEM cables for our fox's isn't making them anymore so the quality may go downhill now- we'll see. Glad you got it taken care of! :nice: