Pulled the codes...

CManT1914

New Member
Feb 5, 2004
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Killeen, Texas
In an ongoing attempt to track down why the stang is running crappy, I pulled the codes a few minutes ago.

On KOEO I got:

564: Electro Drive Fan circuit fault (probably from my malfunctioning high speed fan switch)

On KOER I got:

311: Thermactor air system/fault during engine run self-test

314: Thermactor air system/fault during engine run self-test / left side

332: Insufficient EGR flow detected

Well I deleted my smog pump and EGR, but I didn't think they would set any codes? I capped all the vacuum lines going to the smog pump, and I pushed the plunger halfway down and secured it on the EGR. Maybe the EGR is making it run like crap? Any ideas?
 
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How recent are the O2's?

You were running pretty rich before right? I wonder if you toasted them. That could easily give the above KOER codes (besides the fact that you deleted the systems they refer to).
 
94-302-vert said:
How recent are the O2's?

You were running pretty rich before right? I wonder if you toasted them. That could easily give the above KOER codes (besides the fact that you deleted the systems they refer to).

Stock O2's. I pulled my plugs after running the car for a bit and they were fouled out with fuel deposits. Would they make the car run like crap?
 
CManT1914 said:
Stock O2's. I pulled my plugs after running the car for a bit and they were fouled out with fuel deposits. Would they make the car run like crap?

Change the O2s. The EEC depends on them for idle/part throttle driving to set the injector pulse witdth (how long to keep them open). Bad O2s cause a number of other problems.
 
The only problem is the O2's are damn expensive to just replace without knowing for sure the original's are bad. Tomorrow my new balancer is coming in, I'm gonna put that on, and I'm gonna put the stock injectors back in, because I am running pig rich. I wonder if the injectors I bought are bad. :shrug:
 
CManT1914 said:
The only problem is the O2's are damn expensive to just replace without knowing for sure the original's are bad. Tomorrow my new balancer is coming in, I'm gonna put that on, and I'm gonna put the stock injectors back in, because I am running pig rich. I wonder if the injectors I bought are bad. :shrug:
i would not put the stock fuel injectors in....just turn down your fuel pressure so your not running as rich....with the stock injectors, once u get to a certain rpm, they will start to lean out a lot which could be a no no.
 
CManT1914 said:
The only problem is the O2's are damn expensive to just replace without knowing for sure the original's are bad. Tomorrow my new balancer is coming in, I'm gonna put that on, and I'm gonna put the stock injectors back in, because I am running pig rich. I wonder if the injectors I bought are bad. :shrug:

Change them. Mine were the originals when I changed mine and I saw a huge difference in the quality of the car afterwards. It was stock then too.
 
stprorolla49 said:
i would not put the stock fuel injectors in....just turn down your fuel pressure so your not running as rich....with the stock injectors, once u get to a certain rpm, they will start to lean out a lot which could be a no no.

Easier said than done. I had my afpr on, and it was running so rich it wouldn't even idle long enough for me to adjust the fuel pressure. It was running at 40psi at idle, and 50 under load. So I will put my stock injectors back in, then maybe the afpr, then check to see if the 30's are good or not. I'm gonna be pissed if one is bad. I paid $150 for the things. :fuss:
 
CManT1914 said:
Easier said than done. I had my afpr on, and it was running so rich it wouldn't even idle long enough for me to adjust the fuel pressure. It was running at 40psi at idle, and 50 under load. So I will put my stock injectors back in, then maybe the afpr, then check to see if the 30's are good or not. I'm gonna be pissed if one is bad. I paid $150 for the things. :fuss:

Is the C&L MAF using the correct sampling tube for the 30lb injectors? If you're running rich then this may be why. Normal fuel pressure is 38psi or so at idle.

The bad O2s may be telling the EEC that the car is lean so the EEC is trying to add more fuel.
 
blackEagle said:
Is the C&L MAF using the correct sampling tube for the 30lb injectors? If you're running rich then this may be why. Normal fuel pressure is 38psi or so at idle.

The bad O2s may be telling the EEC that the car is lean so the EEC is trying to add more fuel.

No normal fuel pressure is around 30psi at idle, and 38-40 under load, or with the vacuum line disconnected. 40 is what I was at at idle before I put the stock FPR back on. The C&L has the correct sampling tube, although it uses stock electronics, and my stock MAF went out on me last fall, which is why I got a pro-m. So that damn filament could be faulty and causing problems. I'm gonna throw the stock injectors and the pro-m (calibrated for 19's) back on tomorrow, and see what happens.
 
CManT1914 said:
No normal fuel pressure is around 30psi at idle, and 38-40 under load, or with the vacuum line disconnected. 40 is what I was at at idle before I put the stock FPR back on. The C&L has the correct sampling tube, although it uses stock electronics, and my stock MAF went out on me last fall, which is why I got a pro-m. So that damn filament could be faulty and causing problems. I'm gonna throw the stock injectors and the pro-m (calibrated for 19's) back on tomorrow, and see what happens.

Just putt around and don't push it too hard with the small inj's.

Later
Grady
 
CManT1914 said:
The only problem is the O2's are damn expensive to just replace without knowing for sure the original's are bad. Tomorrow my new balancer is coming in, I'm gonna put that on, and I'm gonna put the stock injectors back in, because I am running pig rich. I wonder if the injectors I bought are bad. :shrug:

Chris, they are not cheap, but your 10 year old stock O2s are probably slow if not bad so it's better to replace them. When I replaced mine it made a big difference.
Tim