Do I need an intercooler?? pingingggggg
- Thread starter UnderPressureGT
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Daggar said:
I agree with Dagger on this totally about dropping the boost level but I would try 1lb of boost drop first to see how the car reacts so you dont lose too much , but if it were my car I would add the snow kit and have it on a switch so it can be controlled on or off , set the boost switch so that it only sprays at 6-7 lbs or higher and you can run straight water (WITHOUT METHANOL) to lower the intake temps by probably 40-60 degrees and when you aren't noticing the pinging just keep it turned off , if it starts to ping , turn it on ......just 299 dollars worth of insurance if you ask me .........
strokedandblown said:
you could but that would be overkill since it comes with a boost pressure switch anyway so just set it higher , if you are DD then you wont be using it all the time anyway if you can keep your foot out of the higher levels of boost ....they have a different kit with a MAF switch so it reads the MAF counts and comes on between certain voltages of the MAF reading ....
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Remember also - the benefits of lower charge temp aren't just limited to being able to run more timing. Less charge temp means greater density which means MORE OXYGEN. For the same volume of air (cfm) pushing it in at a lower temperature means more MASS of air is entering the system. So, all things equal if you decrease charge temp, more O2 enters the system which means more HP. So, the drop in boost associated with intercoolers and piping is usually MORE than made up for by an increase in the mass of air (oxygen) entering the engine. A general rule of thumb is that for each 10F drop in charge temp, you gain 1/2-1% HP.
Daggar nailed it on the tune -- I'd leave the car idling on the rollers between pulls, and I'd put the hood down as far as it will go with the wires running out of it. You WANT them to tune for heat sink - so let it warm up, and then make your pulls.
Daggar nailed it on the tune -- I'd leave the car idling on the rollers between pulls, and I'd put the hood down as far as it will go with the wires running out of it. You WANT them to tune for heat sink - so let it warm up, and then make your pulls.
soo do yous all agree that i put my bigger blower pulley on?? the 3.60 rather then 3.33 which'll spin the blower in its efficient range?
Dr_EluSivE
Founding Member
use an Intercooler, Run the same amount of boost, and Enjoy all your power.. Water injection works... till you run out of water, Lowering your boost works too, but it sacrifices power, You will NOT lose anything in the piping for an intercooler, I am running a Front mount unit from a volvo 740 with lots of pipe and i have no more lag with the intercooler then i did without it You dont want to get out of your normal range though for your vortech so if you need to drop it a lb a or so then i would do that as well, but an intercooler is a vital part of any boosted engine. I would pick up a powerstroke, or a NPR truck Intercooler, front mount it, and enjoy the lack of pinging. Before i had my intercooler on my 2.3 I pinged with 93 Octane @ 12psi, Now i am running 17 Psi (max i can go on stock fuel pump) with 91 octane and no pinging.. Intercool it and forget it. Dont worry about piping.. this is what my setup looks like and i have no lag (2.5" mandrel bent)
Dr.
Dr.
update.... i had the 3.60 from awhile ago.. i put it on and im pushing 7-8 pounds.. it still seems fast... doesnt seem like ive sacrificed ALOT of power loss, but the loss is there.... it still tosses me to my seat like a little bitch....
So far it SEEEEEMS like the detonation isnt there anymore..... i did several 3rd gear runs and listened for it with a friend and i couldnt hear a ping... ill have to drive the car much longer next time and see..
So far it SEEEEEMS like the detonation isnt there anymore..... i did several 3rd gear runs and listened for it with a friend and i couldnt hear a ping... ill have to drive the car much longer next time and see..
willys1
Active Member
Why can't the shop insert a themocouple in your discharge pipe and at the intake and proove if the problem is temperature related?
You say it seems like after its been running for a while it gets worse. Well if that's true you should either see a discharge temp increase or no change. This would at least point you into the correct direction.
I just hate making decisions based on little direct observation or data collection. Especially when you get into the performance area where you sit. As we all know speed costs...and well, judging from your RWHP...your probably broke!
You say it seems like after its been running for a while it gets worse. Well if that's true you should either see a discharge temp increase or no change. This would at least point you into the correct direction.
I just hate making decisions based on little direct observation or data collection. Especially when you get into the performance area where you sit. As we all know speed costs...and well, judging from your RWHP...your probably broke!
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