Debating between cable and hydraulic clutch
- Thread starter tamadrummer88
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68Eleclone said:
If you install it incorreclty with it restion on a header or exhaust pipe. The casing then melts and constricts and makes the cable stick. Some have said it even caused the cable to break. This is not the cable's fault, it is the installer's fault who did a crappy job. Like I said, I have over 220K miles on a cable clutch with no issues and no maintenance. It comes down to who is doing the work.
Hydraulic - for many reasons...
First and foremost, I wanted clearance and get rid of the horrible factory Z bar linkage.
Second I didn't want a silly cable snaked all over the engine compartment. after driving for years with the Z bar, my leg was killing me so I wanted it to feel more like a Toyota. I also retained the early style bellhousing and used the McCloud internal hydraulic trowout bearing so I didn't have to mount a slave cylinder on the side of the tranny. Put mine on about 2 years ago and it has been fine since. Took like 20 minutes to bleed and haven't touched it since.
"THE RATTLER"
:SNSign: http://members.aol.com/ctlaw74/rattler
First and foremost, I wanted clearance and get rid of the horrible factory Z bar linkage.
Second I didn't want a silly cable snaked all over the engine compartment. after driving for years with the Z bar, my leg was killing me so I wanted it to feel more like a Toyota. I also retained the early style bellhousing and used the McCloud internal hydraulic trowout bearing so I didn't have to mount a slave cylinder on the side of the tranny. Put mine on about 2 years ago and it has been fine since. Took like 20 minutes to bleed and haven't touched it since.
"THE RATTLER"
:SNSign: http://members.aol.com/ctlaw74/rattler
mdjay
Premium Sponsor
jcode68 said:I went hydraulic and now that it is bled, I love it! Decision came down to header fitment for me. Plus I didn't like the way the cable systems bow out into the engine bay. I haven't driven a Toyota, so I can't make the comparison, but the feel is really good. Firm, but not stiff. I also want to put a power disc brak setup in my 68 and have posted questions about fit before, but I guess nobody has this combo because I never got a response to 100% confirm it will fit. Jay from Mustang Depot responded and said it should fit, that's about as confident response I got. Dimensionally, not sure how close the 67/68 and 69/70 models would be, but there are guys running this setup in their 69 without fitment problems. Would love to see a definitive answer on this myself as I am about ready to order the brake kit and need to know
Hey guys...
The reason I said "should fit" is that I have no way of knowing what booster you have in the car. 90% of the time the booster has been replaced at this point. The 67-Up cars have a lot more room there than the 65-66 ones do. I'm confident it will be fine.
I prefer the feel of a good hydraulic set-up over the cable ones. The only cable kits I've really seen are sitely in the engine compartment IMO. I would imagine if installed correctly there wouldn't be much of a difference in reliability...
Happy Stangin'
Jay
Jay
jcode68
Active Member
Thanks for the clarification Jay. I am currently running the original 4 wheel manual drum brakes (very scary with the 347) and am looking at the SSBC Force 10 since I want to keep my 15" Tourque Thrust wheels. Spec says the booster is 7". Haven't settled on this one for sure as it's pretty pricey 
But want something performance oriented etc. Don't want to hijack this thread, but this is good info for others considering the hydraulic swap.
But want something performance oriented etc. Don't want to hijack this thread, but this is good info for others considering the hydraulic swap.
BullittStangV8
Founding Member
When ordering my DSS 331 today, the tech guys said the stock Z-bar set up would no longer work..Something about the block not having pervisions for it. What would be a solid, but not expensive option to get my clutch working?
BullittStangV8
Founding Member
Can someone direct me to a site that offers that bracket?
Also, keeping the original Z-bar isnt critical to me, it was just what the car has/had. Is there a kit out there that converts to a cable set up that will work with a 302 block with a toploader 4 spd behind it? I heard that routing the cable around headers (I have hooker LT's) is an issue.
Also, keeping the original Z-bar isnt critical to me, it was just what the car has/had. Is there a kit out there that converts to a cable set up that will work with a 302 block with a toploader 4 spd behind it? I heard that routing the cable around headers (I have hooker LT's) is an issue.
SoCalCruising
Founding Member
Yes, headers can be an issue. It's trial and error thing unless you find someone who can direct you to a header that works with a cable - like http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/headers1.htm
part way down see the headers that work with cable clutch.
That bracket won't be hard to find.
part way down see the headers that work with cable clutch.
That bracket won't be hard to find.
How about neither? I just put a 347 stroker and T5 in my 67 GT350. Replaced the bell housing with a McLeod scattershield. I elected to keep the stock Z-bar because I knew it would fit. However, I did optimize the clutch linkage by: (1) sending the clutch pedal support off to Mustang Steve to have it rollerized (2) replaced the upper clutch rod with one with Heim joints on both ends (3) replaced the lower clutch rod with a Heim-jointed one (on the end that attaches to the Z-bar) (4) used a Centerforce diaphragm clutch (5) removed the big assist spring under the dash. The clutch pedal feel is fantastic. It's hard to believe that hydraulic or cable could work any better than this setup.
65conv50
New Member
I went with mechanical linkage on my T-5 (and 5.0) conversion. It works great, and is maintenance free (which is a good reason to do it, plus excellent clearance for headers), but if I had it to do over again, I would go hydraulic, hands down (based on my experience with two Firebirds with hydraulic).
I have a McLeod self adjusting hydraulic throw out bearing on my 66 with Richmond 6 speed. I also have the Trans Am racing power brake set up. Anything is possible, it just depends on how bad you want it.
There is a pic of the old setup on my website. I have since changd to a different master cylinder
http://www.2mfffabshop.com/hydinf1.htm
There is a pic of the old setup on my website. I have since changd to a different master cylinder
http://www.2mfffabshop.com/hydinf1.htm
jcode68
Active Member
I got some more information to share regarding power brake fitment with the JMC clutch setup. I called JMC today and asked specifically and the guy said it will fit fine if you use the original Bendix style power booster. I asked specifically about the booster that comes with the SSBC kits and he said it will NOT fit. Sooo, I am going to order the SSBC Force 10 manual brake kit and then order a Bendix booster/MC and pedal from another supplier. Anyone know the best place/price to order the Bendix booster/mc/brake pedal?
69gmachine
Member
I have a hyd clutch set up that I built myself using the CNC slave, AFCO 3/4" master and Centerforce dual friction 10.5" disc. Pedal effort is firm, not Toyota like, but not as bad as the mechanical linkage it replaced.
I believe that a lot of people mis-diagnose their hyd clutch as needing to be bled, when a lot of the time it is due to flexing at one end or the other.
To determine which is the culprit, have a friend depress the clutch pedal while you're under the car. With the pedal depressed, push the rod into the slave cylinder. If there is air in the lines, the piston will push in. If the piston doesn't budge, then either the firewall is flexing or the slave cylinder mount is. It doesn't take much flexing to prevent the clutch from engaging properly.
If there is air in the line, and a leak isn't obvious, it's probably at the connection to the master. If there is a small leak here, it can suck air and then push it back out with little if any action at the slave clynder, and very little or no hydraulic fluid leaking
.
I believe that a lot of people mis-diagnose their hyd clutch as needing to be bled, when a lot of the time it is due to flexing at one end or the other.
To determine which is the culprit, have a friend depress the clutch pedal while you're under the car. With the pedal depressed, push the rod into the slave cylinder. If there is air in the lines, the piston will push in. If the piston doesn't budge, then either the firewall is flexing or the slave cylinder mount is. It doesn't take much flexing to prevent the clutch from engaging properly.
If there is air in the line, and a leak isn't obvious, it's probably at the connection to the master. If there is a small leak here, it can suck air and then push it back out with little if any action at the slave clynder, and very little or no hydraulic fluid leaking
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