0-100+ in a gt

[hotmustang331]

I thought the stock internals were only good up to 450rwhp? I know the tune is really important, but i think going over 425-430 is just asking for a blown block...Unless thats what you want so then you can get a forged one to replace it :SNSign:

Yes thats generally true, but mysetup is a bit different. Tim usually likes to run a max of around 420RWHP with a S/C motor. Generally you can get that with boltons and maybe an IC. Kenne bell says the internals are rated to 450RWHP...but we wont worry about that.
My car has turbos, which are not turned by a belt, and overall reduce parasitic loss ALOT (thus why they make alot of power and torque) . Calling it safe would be a 30RWHP difference. Freeing up HP from parasitic loss is FREE hp, and doesnt put any real extra measurable load on your pistons/bottom end.
Your motor makes X amount of power with 8PSI being blown through it. Now drag that down with a S/C pulley...all its doing is using that power that its making. Now take the pulley off, add a little exhaust restriction, and your just now able to use power that was already there, just that it was being used elsewhere....thats basically a turbo VS S/C. You will be showing more HP on a dyno, because now the power that was being used to drive the charger is being applied to the rear wheels. Last I heard @ 10PSI, a vortec S/C took over 60HP to turn BTW...but im betting its ALOT more than that.

So here is my "list" of parisitic/drag loss reducing mods.
Turbos =30
U/D pulleys= 6 p blower guys )
Aluminum flywheel = 4

How I figure, thats 40RWHP of FREE power ATLEAST that I have vs the adverage S/C motor. That means @ 460RWHP my car would have the same "strain" as the adverage 420RWHP S/C car. And since it is free, in theory I could get 460RWHP with the amount of effort it takes S/C guys to get 420.

And here is how I come up with 500 being pretty safe.
Stangmans car with VT stg 1 cams and NO INTERCOOLER made 440RWHP @ 8PSI with a novi for a while now...(like 10-1 A/F and 12* of timing..SUPER SAFE) . Take my free 40 and apply to that and bam 480RWHP...throw my HUGE IC into the mix, presenting cooler/safer intake temps and I figure 500RWHP wouldnt be too bad on my car LOL

I know this is bench racing at its finest, but in THEORY it SHOULD hold true....so thats why I said ill take it as it goes and see how easily power comes for the car, and then decide how much we should go with it, because its not really an exact science.

Did that make sence? And im a FIRM believe, that detonation is what kills 99% of FI modular 2Vs...I think if its safe enough, ill be A OK.

 

[HoustonGT]

Yes thats generally true, but mysetup is a bit different. Tim usually likes to run a max of around 420RWHP with a S/C motor. Generally you can get that with boltons and maybe an IC. Kenne bell says the internals are rated to 450RWHP...but we wont worry about that.
My car has turbos, which are not turned by a belt, and overall reduce parasitic loss ALOT (thus why they make alot of power and torque) . Calling it safe would be a 30RWHP difference. Freeing up HP from parasitic loss is FREE hp, and doesnt put any real extra measurable load on your pistons/bottom end.
Your motor makes X amount of power with 8PSI being blown through it. Now drag that down with a S/C pulley...all its doing is using that power that its making. Now take the pulley off, add a little exhaust restriction, and your just now able to use power that was already there, just that it was being used elsewhere....thats basically a turbo VS S/C. You will be showing more HP on a dyno, because now the power that was being used to drive the charger is being applied to the rear wheels. Last I heard @ 10PSI, a vortec S/C took over 60HP to turn BTW...but im betting its ALOT more than that.

So here is my "list" of parisitic/drag loss reducing mods.
Turbos =30
U/D pulleys= 6 p blower guys )
Aluminum flywheel = 4

How I figure, thats 40RWHP of FREE power ATLEAST that I have vs the adverage S/C motor. That means @ 460RWHP my car would have the same "strain" as the adverage 420RWHP S/C car. And since it is free, in theory I could get 460RWHP with the amount of effort it takes S/C guys to get 420.

And here is how I come up with 500 being pretty safe.
Stangmans car with VT stg 1 cams and NO INTERCOOLER made 440RWHP @ 8PSI with a novi for a while now...(like 10-1 A/F and 12* of timing..SUPER SAFE) . Take my free 40 and apply to that and bam 480RWHP...throw my HUGE IC into the mix, presenting cooler/safer intake temps and I figure 500RWHP wouldnt be too bad on my car LOL

I know this is bench racing at its finest, but in THEORY it SHOULD hold true....so thats why I said ill take it as it goes and see how easily power comes for the car, and then decide how much we should go with it, because its not really an exact science.

Did that make sence? And im a FIRM believe, that detonation is what kills 99% of FI modular 2Vs...I think if its safe enough, ill be A OK.

Thanks for writing that book Cody I wish i could do the whole custom turbo setup deal, but i'll get power ona budget and go with the Vortech Mongoose kit. Hopefully i can run 400rwhp safely on a daily driver. It'll need to last about a year or two while i save for a built block or internals. Once its forged, ill get a smaller pulley and shoot for 12psi and more power.

BTW, i'll be running an intercooler, powerpipe, 75mm TB, plenum, Trickflow manifold (if we ever see it), and headers as wll. Think i can hit 400 safely with those mods and a tune from Tim? I want LOW 12's on Dr's maybe high 11's with gears

 

[hotmustang331]

Yes EASILY. Drive it to tim and he could pull 420RWHP out of that setup pretty easy . If you throw some cams into the mix you could go 440-460RWHP if you wanted. I know Tim said that he has over 700 mongoose car running around with the stock bottom end over the past 3 years, ranging from 350RWHP-460RWHP and all are still going strong. If there are 460RWHP GTs running around, you should be safe with 420-460 IMO.
My problem now is that I dont want to get too greedy and loose my motor on the dyno LOL. I have all these #s and hopes floating around, but im sure as you know they dont mean jack until the car gets on the dyno haha.

Good luck to you man, and DEFINATLY go FI....N/A if definatly fun and all, but man we are just getting outclassed in a hurry with all of these new 400-500HP stock cars coming from Ford and Chevy.

 

[BlownStangGT]

hotmustang331.....what gears you have in that thing?

 

[stangGT97]

i'm lost

What I meant to say is: my car is a slow POS so I probably wouldn't notice appreciable speedo lag haha, never mind, i'm overtired

 

[hotmustang331]

hotmustang331.....what gears you have in that thing?

I fear too much . 3.73s with 26 inch tires. What you think?

BTW my new MAX shifting RPM is going to be 5500RPM.

 

[BlownStangGT]

I fear too much . 3.73s with 26 inch tires. What you think?

BTW my new MAX shifting RPM is going to be 5500RPM.

with that much tire spin I was thinking it was at least 4.30's or 4.10's hahahaha

 

[Twista]

thats fast compared to my GT.

i must be a ricer, but i love the way your car sound. I minimzied the tab and just let it play once ;]

 

[QuickCapri83]

That car runs pretty good for N/A and stock heads, I'm suprised at some of the comments. I timed his 0-60 to around 4.2-4.5, however, sometimes these mini DV tapes can be off, seriously, enough to make a video such as this be off by a lot in terms of timing. Regardless, considering exhaust and cams, and some better gears, I see a lot of potential. But again, it's just a video who knows the car can be blown by now or in two pieces.

Those gears aren't helping anything, too short. With stock cams I bet it would look ridiculous the way he'd be shifting, twice a second heh. My friend put 4:11's in his stock '87 LX, had 100k on it, I remember, cause both our cars had nearly the same mileage, I had a '87GT with 3:55, and smoked him over and over. We were always neck and neck before that, so, gotta prove something. I admit his car "fealt" quicker, but was not faster, especially on the highway.

Regardless good running car, just poor choice on the heads, 12's should come easy. But if it was an issue of money, and not wanting to rip the heads off the car at all, well then, I can understand. So... will certainly take out a stock LS1, yeah, only stock, heh. But hey, if I can beat a LS1 with my VR6 from a high spd roll...jeez, I mean they're quick but, a good running car can take'em out, just build it right. I'm not about that whole "by the hands of god thing", I've been lucky enough to get the best of some. Doesn't always have to cost a fortune either. I like to call the VR my lil' "Cammer" car, the 12V takes so well to cams and a nice thin head gasket, LSD, software....vroom vroom. Smoked the firenerd 3 times, of course this was about a year and a half ago, and that same ls1 is an 11 second car now, but if I had a track and him to race, I'd take him from an 80mph roll all night long. 80-135 it'll even smoke my LE, however my budd's '04 Cobra (500whp) takes it so easy, pisses me off, hearin' that whine pass me by, over top of the sick ass VR6 intake sound
(I stopped street racing a while back, no longer condone it, however sometimes I do admit I'll let a jerk get right on my a$$ then floor it )

See I talk too much, and get random and off topic. But I killed a few minutes, now off to mess with this nice web-developer goodness of Firefox2.


:SNSign:

 

[Ruckus46Gt]

That car runs pretty good for N/A and stock heads, I'm suprised at some of the comments. I timed his 0-60 to around 4.2-4.5, however, sometimes these mini DV tapes can be off, seriously, enough to make a video such as this be off by a lot in terms of timing. Regardless, considering exhaust and cams, and some better gears, I see a lot of potential. But again, it's just a video who knows the car can be blown by now or in two pieces.

Those gears aren't helping anything, too short. With stock cams I bet it would look ridiculous the way he'd be shifting, twice a second heh. My friend put 4:11's in his stock '87 LX, had 100k on it, I remember, cause both our cars had nearly the same mileage, I had a '87GT with 3:55, and smoked him over and over. We were always neck and neck before that, so, gotta prove something. I admit his car "fealt" quicker, but was not faster, especially on the highway.

Regardless good running car, just poor choice on the heads, 12's should come easy. But if it was an issue of money, and not wanting to rip the heads off the car at all, well then, I can understand. So... will certainly take out a stock LS1, yeah, only stock, heh. But hey, if I can beat a LS1 with my VR6 from a high spd roll...jeez, I mean they're quick but, a good running car can take'em out, just build it right. I'm not about that whole "by the hands of god thing", I've been lucky enough to get the best of some. Doesn't always have to cost a fortune either. I like to call the VR my lil' "Cammer" car, the 12V takes so well to cams and a nice thin head gasket, LSD, software....vroom vroom. Smoked the firenerd 3 times, of course this was about a year and a half ago, and that same ls1 is an 11 second car now, but if I had a track and him to race, I'd take him from an 80mph roll all night long. 80-135 it'll even smoke my LE, however my budd's '04 Cobra (500whp) takes it so easy, pisses me off, hearin' that whine pass me by, over top of the sick ass VR6 intake sound
(I stopped street racing a while back, no longer condone it, however sometimes I do admit I'll let a jerk get right on my a$$ then floor it )

See I talk too much, and get random and off topic. But I killed a few minutes, now off to mess with this nice web-developer goodness of Firefox2.


:SNSign:

car already goes mid 12s should go lows with the new mods. Cams went in the car because the head gaskets were blown and didnt have money to spend 2k on heads. Car still runs

 

[QuickCapri83]

Awesome. Good driving as well. I'm all about N/A cars, and I think some ppl on here need to take a better look at the video, it ran pretty damn good.


:SNSign:

 

[1fast03pony]