I recently rebuilt my engine and I'm going back to re-torque my head studs.
I've probably run close to 400-500 miles without going back to re-torque yet; but I've driven the car very mildly (under 3 grand) except for a few dyno pulls.
Needs some guidelines (I want to be super cautions that I do don't mess this up because I really don't want blow a head gasket later on)
-does it matter that I've gone 400-500 miles already? shouldn't right?
-I assume I re-torque in sequence and I shouldn't back off anything at all but simply be checking the torque rating is still 85ft lbs.
-does it matter that the lower intake is installed? how does that affect torque ratings with the added pressure of the lower? I certainly hope this doesn't matter.
-Has anyone used ARP 7/16 studs, do the bottom need to be higher torque? because the instructions said 85 ft lbs with moly, it didn't say to do the lower different than the upper row. I think the ARP studs have different tension to make up for the wedge factor?
---->Now; if I have all of them at 85 ft lbs and someone says I should be running higher torque on the bottom row even with these ARP studs...what does that mean for re-torqueing? because adding 5 ft lbs now won't be evenly distributed because I'm adding +0 to the top and +5 to the bottom that woudn't be an even increment accross the sequence? Course I'm hoping both rows can be 85 ft lbs and I should not worry about this!
-If I'm going with a super charger next year, should I retorqe to a higher rating? I'm expecting to see 380 hp to the wheels. Should I just go with the 85 ft lbs with moly that the ARP instructions say? I guess I feel that If I increase it now to over 85 ft lbs then I would have to retoque again later on because of the increased number would need to be checked again....I don't want to go through that if it's not nessasary
Sorry I have so many stupid questions, but I will super pissed If I screw this up. I've good luck so far with this build I want to keep it that way!
I've probably run close to 400-500 miles without going back to re-torque yet; but I've driven the car very mildly (under 3 grand) except for a few dyno pulls.
Needs some guidelines (I want to be super cautions that I do don't mess this up because I really don't want blow a head gasket later on)
-does it matter that I've gone 400-500 miles already? shouldn't right?
-I assume I re-torque in sequence and I shouldn't back off anything at all but simply be checking the torque rating is still 85ft lbs.
-does it matter that the lower intake is installed? how does that affect torque ratings with the added pressure of the lower? I certainly hope this doesn't matter.
-Has anyone used ARP 7/16 studs, do the bottom need to be higher torque? because the instructions said 85 ft lbs with moly, it didn't say to do the lower different than the upper row. I think the ARP studs have different tension to make up for the wedge factor?
---->Now; if I have all of them at 85 ft lbs and someone says I should be running higher torque on the bottom row even with these ARP studs...what does that mean for re-torqueing? because adding 5 ft lbs now won't be evenly distributed because I'm adding +0 to the top and +5 to the bottom that woudn't be an even increment accross the sequence? Course I'm hoping both rows can be 85 ft lbs and I should not worry about this!
-If I'm going with a super charger next year, should I retorqe to a higher rating? I'm expecting to see 380 hp to the wheels. Should I just go with the 85 ft lbs with moly that the ARP instructions say? I guess I feel that If I increase it now to over 85 ft lbs then I would have to retoque again later on because of the increased number would need to be checked again....I don't want to go through that if it's not nessasary
Sorry I have so many stupid questions, but I will super pissed If I screw this up. I've good luck so far with this build I want to keep it that way!
