NastytGT: Roush TVS @ 524 rwhp

Saleen makes a larger water pump pulley for their blower. Might be worth checking out?

I'm running the OEM water pump pulley with the larger blower pulley and OEM crank pulley now with no issues!

Well currently I'm tuned by CR at Tillmans. I'll PM you. And yes I'm running the stock pulleys on the car. I think I need to get ahold of a 3.25" pulley for the blower like you say. I seen my boost gauge hit 14 once...a little sketchy...hahaha.

Replied! :nice:
 
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I run the Ford V10 water pump pulley with my Saleen VI S/C its just over a half inch larger than the stock pulley and improves belt wrap.
I just blew my stock bottom end with 503 RWHP trust me the stock internals will not hold that much power long my car is a 08 with auto trans with only 19k miles rod broke and knocked a hole in my block! it sucks but i am now doing my home work on who's forged short block i want to go with.
 
Nasty, help me out brother. I recently put my TVS on, about 1000 miles on it now... no issues yet, but i agree the amount of boost is a little sketchy. Last thing i want to do is ruin my motor. What would you suggest to keep the power, but lower the boost? I wanna stay above 500 rwhp.
 
I finally made the switch from the Roush P51 clutch disk to the McLeod RST. My Roush P51 clutch was giving me a fit. I was worried that I was going to have to rebuild the transmission as well as replace the clutch. Luckily for me it was just a clutch issue!

The Roush P51 clutch was pretty good for the first couple thousand of miles. It never slipped but I did have horrible problems with engagement and disengagement. Horrible is probably a understatement though. I would get locked out of gear while driving and at stops which made it interesting at red lights and stop signs when it wouldn't go in gear. Shifting was ridiculously notchy, felt 10 times worse than the stock clutch. Power shifting the car was completely out of the question, even speed shifting most of the time was dangerous. The car never grinded going into gear but it was a bear to drive and took a lot of finesse to slide the car into gear and past the blocking rings in the transmission. Turns out I'm not the only one with these issues with the Roush P51 either. I'm not sure if the shim is the correct thickness or what but something is wrong. I'm really sure I wouldn't recommend it to anyone after the trouble I've been through.

It took me some time to decide on what direction to go between a TR6060, 4R70W, etc but I finally decided on just going with the clutch I originally wanted for my car. The McLeod RST twin disc which is rated for roughly 900hp. I tackled the job last night and found a warped Roush P51 clutch disk and a flywheel that was in rough shape. I'm sure the slave cylinder was rough, too. The job went very smooth though. The McLeod RST's directions are good and even include torque specs. I'd recommend you take your time installing the McLeod RST and making sure that each bolt goes where it came and aligning it how it's assembled from McLeod. There are bolts that are weighted so don't mix them up. I ended up using a new OEM slave cylinder, flywheel, and pilot bearing as well.

As far as thoughts on the clutch. I have driven 200 miles since the install so still not beating on it. Pedal is lighter than stock and very, very, very smooth. I don't have any issues with engagement or disengagement. Tested the car at RPMs, sitting still, and it goes in every gear with ease. The shifter feel is very smooth and it got rid of most of the notchy feel. 100 times better than before without a doubt. After a couple hundred miles I'll have some more thoughts on the clutch. I'm very happy so far though!
 
Thanks for your input Nasty! I have always wondered if the notchiness could be rid of with a clutch rather than a shifter. Obviously the clutch is more work and costs more, but eventually I will have to replace the clutch and I shouldn't have to replace the shifter :D Give us an update when it's a little more 'broke' in...