this!
for a low HP car a steel flywheel is better because it stores rotaional energy due to its weight to help get the car off the line
a higher HP car will be better off with the aluminum to help let them spin up.
Fidanza Aluminum Street Rant Thread
- Thread starter Noobz347
- Start date
this!
for a low HP car a steel flywheel is better because it stores rotaional energy due to its weight to help get the car off the line
a higher HP car will be better off with the aluminum to help let them spin up.
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thats kind of a blanket statement. There are alot of other factors, tire choice, how good track prep is, where the motor makes power, launch RPM... theres a few more factors to keep in mind
yea... i should have said rule of thumb i guess
im at a toss up for what flywheel to put in my car. its not going to be making huge power on the motor (under 300ish) but should be up around 475-500 on the bottle so at that point its going to be hitting the tires pretty hard to begin with and i know im going to end up breaking the T5 and going to go to an A5 set up and a different disk (26 spline). not sure if i should just do an aluminum one to help save the trans a little bit or just put a billet steel in it and let the bitch eat
im at a toss up for what flywheel to put in my car. its not going to be making huge power on the motor (under 300ish) but should be up around 475-500 on the bottle so at that point its going to be hitting the tires pretty hard to begin with and i know im going to end up breaking the T5 and going to go to an A5 set up and a different disk (26 spline). not sure if i should just do an aluminum one to help save the trans a little bit or just put a billet steel in it and let the bitch eat
... and just to throw some more BS into the mix...
I'm thinking that for a track car (think quarter mile) running DOT tires or 10.5s and either a turbo or centri blower that the aluminum might be the better choice (generally) where higher rpm clutch drops might be the launch method of the day without ripping the tires clear of the track surface.
Something running silly gas, or a PD blower (read: makes torque now), might launch form a lower RPM and need that extra rotating mass to to get that grunt off the line.
Then another concept just occured to me. Let's say the transmission and rear end are geared so that with current HP, we cross the exit line 3/4 of the way through 4th gear. Increasing or decreasing the weight/mass of the flywheel might be the easiest thing to do in order to tune the launch and ensure we finish at the top of the power band on the far side as power increases with mods, tuning, etc.
I'm sure this thread is only reinventing the wheel but the info you find on this sort of thing is usually very one sided.
Radials yes, the aluminum i think is better, but not on any kind of bias ply. I was running a 10.5 stiff wall and it still had a slight bog even off the limiter.
You're probably right. You'd need the setup necessary to carry the car through the "grunt" of launching.
Know what would be sweet? A flywheel where a set of weights could be swapped out through the inspection panel.
Figure out your launch method and fine tune by adding/removing weight from the flywheel. I bet somebody already makes such a thing.
going to be on a window switch from 3200-5400 and coming off a 2 step at 5500-5600. so basicly as soon as i let off the clutch
I'd be on the fence with that setup. Lightweight flywheel - rotating assy take the brunt. Steel flywheel - tranny takes the brunt.
Know what would be sweet? A flywheel where a set of weights could be swapped out through the inspection panel.
Figure out your launch method and fine tune by adding/removing weight from the flywheel. I bet somebody already makes such a thing.
why reinvent the wheel? Thats why they make slipper clutches
not to mention that you could not do that without screwing the whole balance of the engine up
Shaolin Crane
Banned
for a drag car yes, but on a high speed road course car, or auto-x where the car is already moving aluminum makes it giddy up a whole lot faster, mmmmm reving to 7k on a road course
yes you could
would just need to remove the flywheel to do it right and have the "rings" be located off dowel pins and have the proper imbalance to them. basicly you would need to have a 0 balance flywheel and have weighted rings for 50oz imbalance at different a few different thickness. it wouldnt be cheap but it could be done.
If you took the trans and clutch out, but the post i replied to said you would put them on thru the "inspection panel" on the bellhousing, which isnt going to happen, and even if it was somehow possible it would be unrealistic that it could be done that way without disrupting the balance
- Dec 19, 2010
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I don't know how many of y'all are outdoorsmen, but the shimano company has been applying this principal to fishing reels for years to adjust reel speed when casting. They have six pins on the end of the spool the radiate outward, each pin holding a weight that snaps to an up or down position, moving mass as needed.
Having a machine trade background, I could see where individual precision weights could be bolted symetrically into and out of pockets machined in a flywheel to tune mass. They'd just have to be very close tolerance and added absolutely symetrical. Large rotating equipment in powerplants and chemical plants are field balanced with bolt in weight all the time. The idea isn't that far fetched.
Having a machine trade background, I could see where individual precision weights could be bolted symetrically into and out of pockets machined in a flywheel to tune mass. They'd just have to be very close tolerance and added absolutely symetrical. Large rotating equipment in powerplants and chemical plants are field balanced with bolt in weight all the time. The idea isn't that far fetched.
A slipper clutch though, wouldn't change the rotating mass. A replaceable set of weights would need to be a matched set.
The flywheel would have the imbalance (if applicable) already built in. The weight set would need to be a complete set and removed and replaced as a complete set. Each set would be balanced for zero so that the the imbalance of the flywheel would remain unchanged.
ok well how about this, its a stupid idea, if you look at the original post i replied to it was made in reference to a drag car so it had some adjustment in getting the car to leave right. Hence, a slipper clutch..........................
If you wanted to change the rotational mass then why would you bother going thru all that trouble with weights and sht, just have a steel flywheel and a aluminum one on hand. one or the other would work in just about any situation
If you wanted to change the rotational mass then why would you bother going thru all that trouble with weights and sht, just have a steel flywheel and a aluminum one on hand. one or the other would work in just about any situation
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
for a drag car yes, but on a high speed road course car, or auto-x where the car is already moving aluminum makes it giddy up a whole lot faster, mmmmm reving to 7k on a road course
on my car i think it helped alot, mine will go 7k rpm on a daily basis, and I think i would have alot more trans trouble if i had that extra weight to sling around.
