abs brakes.... easiest way to remove!!!

onewaymine

New Member
Feb 7, 2011
10
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1
Buford, Ga
i have an 06 gt... has slotted rotors and hawks hps pads all around... i have noticed it doesnt like stopping fast from over 120mph (rotors over heat, i know how to fix this) not really a big deal... problem i have is going hot into corners abs is always kicking in and is completely worthless... its not have as bad with the new suspension and tires but still enough to be an annoyance...

so the question whats the easiest way to remove the abs system from my car...

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for real...... i want a brake system i can control... you remove the fuse its basically all or nothing... from what i understand in some of the v6 models abs was optional... my thought was to get that master cylinder and hard lines... pull the dash remove the abs light remove the rest of the system from under the hood...
 
If you pull the fuse then the you'll have regular ole' brakes without the pitter-patter of an electronic solenoid actuating the brake on and off.

I don't uderstand your, "all or nothing" reference. If you replace your brake parts with non-abs brake parts then you're STILL all or nothing. By pulling the fuse, you're at minimum, assured that your currently installed OEM system was designed for the weight and bias of the vehicle it is installed in. Swap to V6 parts and that application guarantee no longer applies.
 
i pulled the fuse and still have modulation.... reason i questioned it is ive done that in 2 other vehicles ive owned with very poor results turned the brake pedal into a virtual switch.... base and gt mustangs share the same master cylinder on the abs models (same ford part #) so a non abs unit should have the same bias for v8 and v6 as well.... that was the reasoning behind it...

only other modern performance cars ive owned are an e36 m3 and e46 m3 smg (the stability control on the e46 could be switched off, that does interfere) the abs in both of those vehicles didnt seem to interfere with track use or aggressive driving the way the mustangs does... then again the bmw in factory form dont handle like a 80s station-wagon either...

oh well handles much more like a sports car should now.... anyways ill pull that fuse when i go to the track... thatll work since i havent been able to find a non abs car or master, even though it showed as an option on the base models

thnx
 
i have an 06 gt... has slotted rotors and hawks hps pads all around... i have noticed it doesnt like stopping fast from over 120mph (rotors over heat, i know how to fix this) not really a big deal... problem i have is going hot into corners abs is always kicking in and is completely worthless... its not have as bad with the new suspension and tires but still enough to be an annoyance...

so the question whats the easiest way to remove the abs system from my car...


Seems like you need to invest in a bigger brake setup and some stickier tires, the ABS can be a hit or miss after you make those changes
 
pushed it a little bit with the abs fuse pulled... the inside rear tire on hard braking going into a turn is starts to lock up... heavier sway-bars would help... but im thinking the main fix would be a 14 inch front upgrade forcing the front to take more of the brake force... a temporary fix could be putting the oe pads back in the rear... or maybe just brake a little sooner going into a turn :notnice: .....
 
Seems like you need to invest in a bigger brake setup and some stickier tires, the ABS can be a hit or miss after you make those changes

The way it was told to me was that your tires are the weak link in the brake system, once they lock then the abs starts modulating. get better (sticker) tires and keep the abs.
 
im running 255/45-18 and 285/40-18 goodyear eagles f1s... they dont seem to have any problems with traction in acceleration, turns, or straight line braking the problem was alot worse with the old tires (255/50-17 nitto 555s) and intolerable with the stock suspension... ive run nittos, bfgs, michelins, bridgestones, dunlops and the like in the past and these tires grip as good if not better than most (except in cold wet situations) so i dont think the issue is with the tires at this time... i should mention i stand on the brakes last second at high rpm in the lowest gear possible going into a turn... on other live axle cars ive owned ive had the same issue with the inside tire... but all of them were non abs and dragging the inside tire never bothered me... but seems to really piss off the abs... i know im picky... but i want the best of both worlds dang it
 
Ive heard of guys running as wide as 375 all the way around. cant remember his name but MMFF or 5.0 ran a article on him after he died. Had a silver SN car...
Might have to adjust your driving style or see about getting a tune that would offer a switch to run without the ABS but if this car sees any use on a public road with the rank and file idiots that drive on them id keep the ABS.

How does your mustang compare with the other cars you've had as far as weight is concerned?
 
almost the same as my e46 m3 think the m3 weighs about 40-50lbs more... but is also had 4 wheel independent suspension it braked a lot better than the mustang all around with almost the exact same size rotors :shrug: .. i know apples and oranges this is my first ford not to mention mustang... and thus far i like it just have to work out the bugs...
 
ok ill repeat myself have no problem with the tires... only way it breaks traction is if i want them to... as for over-under steer brake too late it pushes, accelerate too late it drifts do it right and car goes where you want it too.... car is very neutral in the turns as of now... the tires are very predictable... problem is, and you can push through it, mostly the pedal feel it pushes you back.... ok now for balance ther is only 3/4 of an inch difference between the tread on the ground of the 255-285 and fyi it was worse with the "balanced" (same size front and rear) nittos that every one raves on... it had push goin in and had to be carefull of how much throttle you gave it to compensate or you were drifting... with the goodyears i go full throttle no worries... granted those were 17s these are 18s but your only talking 1/2 inch less sidewall...

car brakes better with the abs fuse pulled no hesitation or push on the pedal still had issue with hard brake at speed but thats rotors... im gonna try the gt500 brake upgrade and see where it goes from there

this is what the car has
C&L Street Intake
62mm BBK Throttle Body
FRPP Delete Plates
JBA LT Headers
JBA O/R H-pipe
JBA Axleback
Hurst Shifter
Detriot Trutrac with 4.10s
Steeda adj Upper Control Arm
steeda ultra lite springs
j&m camber plates set at 1 degree neg
j&m adj pan-hard bar
umi lca relocation brackets
koni str.t shocks/struts
gt500 wheels/tires
 
well put 5k +miles on those tires, never had an issue with them even at 140 on wet roads, side step the clutch and they had traction by 30 mph, im thinking if you have a mustang and these tires im the sizes i did and are haveing problems then its the setup on your car. abs and factory brakes are weak on the car just like the rest of the cars factory equiptment, drive train is a great base and solid interior is great styling is nice. anyways, but on the plus side i did finally find a way to get the car to do what i wanted it to..... i sold it and bought a vette... the traction control and abs are so much better do i need to say something about the handling... its a great fix for the mustang... on the plus side i made 4k on the car owned it 6 months and put 6k miles on it ;)

all that said i actually did like the car, and was sad to see her go