I just bought a 2012 mustang GT premium

Are you wanting the car to race or for street? Or just to own a badass mustang? If it's more to race than anything, I'd suggest you just get a base, regardless of gears, then for a couple hundred bucks get some 410 gears and put in it, then follow up with exhaust, CAI, and tune with the money you'd save from not buying a premium. But if you want more out of the car you're gonna want to get the premium. The brembo brake package makes a world of difference, and it's not just the brakes, the suspension is a little different too. Just try to find one that's not decked out with the glass roof, appearance packages, etc. Also, keep in mind that you are the customer. You don't HAVE to buy from that guy, don't be afraid to walk out. Patience and perseverance will get you the deal you want. Also, I got rediculous credit. That helped too.

I'll hit the drag strip, maybe some autox. Just for fun, more than anything just a nice one to drive, probably tell myself not to do any mods for a few years. I didnt like the seats, gauge cluster, and radio in the base
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I think Di Blasi sucks

I also bought my gt from al at di blasi

They jerked me around with all kinds of BS.

I called a new Ford Dealer on the phone got the owner who passed me Mike Duff.
Ford Lincoln of Queens Ford Lincoln of Queens Boulevard - Your Jamaica, New York Ford Lincoln dealer for new and used vehicle sales and service
and had a conversation with Mike. I said I wanted to buy a Premium Convertible at invoice minus the rebate at time of delivery. Mike said sure just add a $75 document fee and he would do it.

I went down told him what I wanted in the car and we did the deal in 5 minutes with no BS.

Here is the deal:

Convertible Premium
202A Auto Trans
HID lights and Security Package
Reverse Sensors and Security
Comfort Package
Ingot Silver
Stone Interior
Tape Delete

Invoice Price $33,739
Minus $2,700 for a 2001 GMC Jimmy 90,000 miles

Price $31039 + Sales Tax @8.625 $2,677.11 + $75 Doc Fee = $33,791.11
Minus $1500 incentives = OTD $32,291.11


Mike Duff (Sales Manager) is the without a doubt the most pleasant, straight forward person I have ever dealt with at a car dealership in my 45+ years of buying cars.

I hate to sound like a paid commercial for this dealer but I had a great experience there. I believe they are only in business at this location for 4-5 weeks.

I expect the car will be here in 4 weeks since the car was ordered two weeks ago.
 
I live in NYC queens and the dealer I went to today had a red Mustang GT premium coupe. None of the other dealers around me had the mustang GT. It has the stick shift, red candy metallic tinted cc, rr sensing sys/security package, the the 18" polished wheels with the pony in the middle. The msrp was $35,500 and I payed $37,000 out the door. Tax, dmv fees everything included. Did I get a good deal on this Mustang? Also, this will be my first car in manual. I only driven a stick shift twice in my life for just an hour. Any tips about the mustang gt stick? please let me know if I got a good deal or not. thanks in advance, so I will post pictures when I go pick it up Monday.

$37k otd after a $1,500 rebate on an MSRP of $35,500, looks like you paid full sticker for the car.
 
This is my first post and wanted to try it out. Just got my 2012 Candy Red 5.0 with 5 miles on it, for 25,760.00 out the door. Car is a base 6spd GT with 3.73 rear - end and candy red paint. Did my home work, shopped dealers and purchased the car for dealer invoice -their hold back ($894.00) and a small trade in allowance. I forfeited my $1,500.00 in rebates in order to by down my interest rate which is 3.9%. I will save myself almost $3,000.00 on interest during the loan period. Thanks for reading. CR2012

How did you get it for $25,760 otd (especially if you chose rate over rebate) when dealer invoice before holdback is $29,034 on this car?

Your "small" trade allowance must have been over $6,000.
 
Are you wanting the car to race or for street? Or just to own a badass mustang? If it's more to race than anything, I'd suggest you just get a base, regardless of gears, then for a couple hundred bucks get some 410 gears and put in it, then follow up with exhaust, CAI, and tune with the money you'd save from not buying a premium. But if you want more out of the car you're gonna want to get the premium. The brembo brake package makes a world of difference, and it's not just the brakes, the suspension is a little different too. Just try to find one that's not decked out with the glass roof, appearance packages, etc. Also, keep in mind that you are the customer. You don't HAVE to buy from that guy, don't be afraid to walk out. Patience and perseverance will get you the deal you want. Also, I got rediculous credit. That helped too.

Good credit does not get a better discount. Just a better rate. It's way cheaper to get the 3.73's installed from the factory than to get 4.10's installed after the fact. Plus you'll speedo issues. If you want a deal go to someone in fleet or internet, offer $500 up on a order and you'll get your car. No need to waste your time driving all over and spending tons of time on the phone. Be done with it in 30 minutes and you'll be getting a good deal on the car.
 
Getting a good deal is only half the battle if you finance the car.
Say you have an excellent credit rating (800+) and they quote you a rate at the dealership that's even better than a Credit Union, they can do even better. Of course they ask you what you want your monthly payment to be, but that's none of their business. TELL them what interest rate you want and go from there, just like the price of the car.
 
Good credit does not get a better discount. Just a better rate. It's way cheaper to get the 3.73's installed from the factory than to get 4.10's installed after the fact. Plus you'll speedo issues. If you want a deal go to someone in fleet or internet, offer $500 up on a order and you'll get your car. No need to waste your time driving all over and spending tons of time on the phone. Be done with it in 30 minutes and you'll be getting a good deal on the car.

What do you mean go to someone in fleet?
 
Getting a good deal is only half the battle if you finance the car.
Say you have an excellent credit rating (800+) and they quote you a rate at the dealership that's even better than a Credit Union, they can do even better. Of course they ask you what you want your monthly payment to be, but that's none of their business. TELL them what interest rate you want and go from there, just like the price of the car.

A big reason you're what payment you want to be at is to make sure you're not on the wrong car or to waste their time. I've seen many a deal go south with a customer negotiating price and rate only to piss their pants when the payment is MUCH higher than they thought it was going to be.
 
fleet or internet departments. Do you live in Cali?

just did some reading. so the way i understand it is

call the dealership and get the manager of the fleet department

tell him where you work and that you want to buy a car

go buy the car at about a $500 mark up?

do you have to prove that it is for business use?

and if you do i could just tell them i work for my dad since he has his own (small, hes his own employee) business?

and what is the invoice on a gt premium? where can i find that out?
 
Born + Raised in Queens - awesome to see more of us in the house.

Family used to buy Fords EXCLUSIVELY from DiBlasi - times have definitely changed though.

When buying my GT i thought I'd give them a shot, never been shooed away from a dealer that fast before. Laughed, and ended up with a better example and a way better deal from All-American Ford in NJ.

I'm done with dealers in the NYC area - none are worth their weight in salt.
 
Sorry to correct you but,

Born + Raised in Queens - awesome to see more of us in the house.

Family used to buy Fords EXCLUSIVELY from DiBlasi - times have definitely changed though.

When buying my GT i thought I'd give them a shot, never been shooed away from a dealer that fast before. Laughed, and ended up with a better example and a way better deal from All-American Ford in NJ.

I'm done with dealers in the NYC area - none are worth their weight in salt.

I say you should give Ford Lincoln of Queens a shot. Mike Duff treated me better than any car sales person I have ever dealt with. Please see my post on the previous page to see what I am referring to. This is a link to them
Ford Lincoln of Queens Boulevard - Your Jamaica, New York Ford Lincoln dealer for new and used vehicle sales and service
 
Wondering that myself. Invoice on that car is just over $35,000.

Was it really NEW or a Demo the sales people drive around for a couple or few thousand etc..at times. I've got really good deals buying that way in the past. I agree with the guy that said buy via the Fleet Manager though/online. I did all my paper work via fax, got approved over the phone, picked up the car from the Fleet Manager, done deal. Won't do it any other way any more. Who likes sitting around for who knows how long while they play their game between the sales person and the sales manager - yikes. Like you said, just go in knowing the invoice price and go from there. At first I thought people were going to pay too much when I saw people talking about ordering one. I won't play that game. I just wait for the dust to settle before I ever bought a new car coming out. Look at all the people complaining about the transmission issues. Although some of that could, just saying could, not jumping to conclusions, be due to incorrect pwr shifting. I'm wondering at this point though how much the computer is involved, even though it's a manual transmission, some comments I've read hint around that possibility. I'm going to check around at the tuner forums to see if this subject has been addressed by a good tuner programmer knowing what the work around is and override some computer related issue. Tuners do help at times when the computer requires some modifying etc...to make a cars drive-ability issues improve. ooops, rambling again... so....sorrrrry.