5 or 4 turn steering box?

I have been dealing with a lot of play in my steering and have tried adjusting the box but I think it's just worn out. I'm thinking about buying another rebuilt manual box but was wondering if anybody could give me some insight as to whether it would be worth changing to a 4 turn box as opposed to the original 5 turn. A 4 turn box would run an additional $75. Thanks for the input!

Also, how difficult is it to replace with the engine in the car? I read through Mustang Monthly's How To article but they did it while the engine was out.
 
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A buddy of mine has the 4 turn with the manual set up in his 66. I like it until it comes time to park. Then, not so much, but he also has wider wheels than stock.

I could be wrong since I know more about '68 and before, but I think the boxes with the rag joints are pretty easy to remove whether the engine is in or not. The earlier long shaft boxes can be some work.
 
Folks get confused about the "Power Steering" 4 turn box . Since it is a Power Steering box, it is actually HARDER to turn/steer than the 5 turn box without the aide of the Hydraulics.

It a matter of gear ratio. More gear in the 5 turn box, less in the 4 turn. Just like a rearend.

So add a 4 turn without the Power Assist, get a Upper Body building course at the same time. Don't let the wife drive it--Cause she slap ya!!

Dan @ Chockostang
 
I laughed when I saw you replied to this Dan since I'll be getting the box from you, haha. Good info, I am running 245/60 15s up front so maybe a 4 turn will be too hard to handle at low speeds and a rebuilt 5 turn will, I'm sure, be a huge improvement over my worn out box. Thanks for the info, I'll be ordering a 5 turn soon!

BTW, 4 or 5 turn, the wife couldn't drive my stang anyway. Couldn't turn the wheel or push the clutch, haha.
 
With the long-shaft, you need to remove the driver's seat, steering wheel, steering column, LH cowl brace, LH valve cover, #7 & #8 spark plug, pitman arm, and steering gearbox.

It's been 15 years, but I'm almost certain that I didn't have to remove the seat or valve cover. I wish I could better remember how I varied from the shop manual since it was a bit easier than you describe. Or maybe I was just so full of energy and enthusiasm in my youth that just got it done and have forgotten about what now seem like significant details.
 
I understand that on mid-67 and earlier cars the steering column needs to come out but on a '70 do I have to remove or mess with the column or can I just undo the rag joint? Also, I'm assuming I would have to remove the header but what about the z-bar? Thanks for the help!!
 
I laughed when I saw you replied to this Dan since I'll be getting the box from you, haha. Good info, I am running 245/60 15s up front so maybe a 4 turn will be too hard to handle at low speeds and a rebuilt 5 turn will, I'm sure, be a huge improvement over my worn out box. Thanks for the info, I'll be ordering a 5 turn soon!

BTW, 4 or 5 turn, the wife couldn't drive my stang anyway. Couldn't turn the wheel or push the clutch, haha.

Carol had a Automatic 66 289 in 67. I MARRIED HER!!!

Couldn't let that Mustang get away. Still got Carol, Mustang Long Gone????

Dan
 
Folks get confused about the "Power Steering" 4 turn box . Since it is a Power Steering box, it is actually HARDER to turn/steer than the 5 turn box without the aide of the Hydraulics.

I'll vouch for that.

I put a PS delete in my '68 and now I have non-assist four-turn steering. I like it and don't think it's that bad with 225/60-R15 tires as long as the car is moving. It's been a long time since I drove a manual five-turn box, but I do feel that I prefer the four-turn I have now.