Build Thread Finally! 89 Notch 2v Swap Progress Thread Project: 89mach1
- Thread starter CarMichael Angelo
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The holes are actually epoxied. But the epoxy sagged. I was afraid that if I added anymore, it would droop. It's not really a big deal, The Vinyl paint is actually lacquer, it wipes right off w/ acetone. I was just anxious to get it done. I'll mess w/ it more over winter.
striker911
Member
That is the coolest. Id say one more nice touch would be to hide the cd player and dummy mount a old twist knob radio. Thats it though. Your week of work looks well worth it. Nice job.
Thank you. I appreciate the comments, but the shaft style radio is gonna have to stay in the 60's. But now that you mention it, Maybe I could hang an under-dash Craig 8 track player and go rummage me one of my dads' steppin wolf 8 track tapes w/ the familiar track change "cha-chunk" at the end of "born to be wild"
No Mach 1 wheels. Chose a different set that look kinda like a billet Keystone Klassic. You must've missed the wheel dilemma thread.
Mintsick
10 Year Member
I wasn't sure about those style gauges in your other thread, but with the combination of the wood I think it fits perfectly!
1991notchbackLX
Active Member
ID89GT
10 Year Member
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
I think I would go all black on the interior. Get rid of the red.....the all black would fit the old school theme better IMHO.
I think the wood would look better with all black as well, but the seats and door skins looks good with the current set up.
A more labor intensive H/C/I swap.
Well typical for me I have decided to tackle the head change over at this point. For those of you that don't know, I was comp'd a set of Patriot Performance heads, cams, and T/C's in exchange for advertising their products during my 5.0 photo shoot.
The engine swap was the very first thing I did to this car, and at the time, had no idea that it would end up like it did. So, needless to say I did not spend alot of time detailing the engine compartment. I spent a fair amount modifying the K member to accommodate the swap, and I filled some of the holes, but other than that I just whipped out the rattle can, and sprayed the whole thing in gloss black engine enamel.Then I stuffed the engine in it, and that was that.
It has always been a sore spot ever since. So despite the fact that the heads were off, and I had a pretty good amount of access to the bay, I decided that the extra hour to finish pulling the engine to get a better end result was warranted. I'll also be able to get a better result when installing the heads out of the car, so there's that too.
So for the next week or so, I'll spend some time smoothing, filling, and painting the thing Satin black. .....pics
Almost waited too long to fix this:
You can kinda make out the goofy "tubular K member" I made, so as to have access to the stupid under the tube header bolts. It works, kinda.
Also, you can see that I've filled the A/C evap hole in the firewall. Don't need it, my A/C system will be in the trunk.
I've already ordered the adapters that will allow me to change over the heater core to AN. I'll use braided -10 for my heater hoses. I think I'll have a pretty clean overall solution to dealing w/ damn hoses to keep me cool in the summer and warm in the cold months.
* On a side note: I have never done it before, as I've always had automatics, but can you reinstall the engine w/ the 5 speed trans in place? If its not the thing to do, I don't wanna take a chance of bending something.
Maybe somebody can clue me in.
P.S. The other reason I pulled the engine was to be able to get it painted completely, since I'm gonna paint it red. The same as body color.
Th-th-th- that's all folks!
Well typical for me I have decided to tackle the head change over at this point. For those of you that don't know, I was comp'd a set of Patriot Performance heads, cams, and T/C's in exchange for advertising their products during my 5.0 photo shoot.
The engine swap was the very first thing I did to this car, and at the time, had no idea that it would end up like it did. So, needless to say I did not spend alot of time detailing the engine compartment. I spent a fair amount modifying the K member to accommodate the swap, and I filled some of the holes, but other than that I just whipped out the rattle can, and sprayed the whole thing in gloss black engine enamel.Then I stuffed the engine in it, and that was that.
It has always been a sore spot ever since. So despite the fact that the heads were off, and I had a pretty good amount of access to the bay, I decided that the extra hour to finish pulling the engine to get a better end result was warranted. I'll also be able to get a better result when installing the heads out of the car, so there's that too.
So for the next week or so, I'll spend some time smoothing, filling, and painting the thing Satin black. .....pics
Almost waited too long to fix this:
You can kinda make out the goofy "tubular K member" I made, so as to have access to the stupid under the tube header bolts. It works, kinda.
Also, you can see that I've filled the A/C evap hole in the firewall. Don't need it, my A/C system will be in the trunk.
I've already ordered the adapters that will allow me to change over the heater core to AN. I'll use braided -10 for my heater hoses. I think I'll have a pretty clean overall solution to dealing w/ damn hoses to keep me cool in the summer and warm in the cold months.
* On a side note: I have never done it before, as I've always had automatics, but can you reinstall the engine w/ the 5 speed trans in place? If its not the thing to do, I don't wanna take a chance of bending something.
Maybe somebody can clue me in.
P.S. The other reason I pulled the engine was to be able to get it painted completely, since I'm gonna paint it red. The same as body color.
Th-th-th- that's all folks!
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Shaolin Crane
Banned
I'll have to post more detailed pictures so that you can sleep tonight.
There is nothing "frightening" about my K member. Three pieces of 1.250"
.125 wall mild steel tubing triangulated starting just above the factory LCA pivot point.
Tied into the factory upper and plug welded:
The central span is a piece of 1.750" .134 wall tubing.
If I planned to do what you do, then No Crane, I probably would want some more reinforcement for keeping everything bolstered even better. But for going straight through traffic to the local grocery store, I don't see any reason it wont work just fine.
There is nothing "frightening" about my K member. Three pieces of 1.250"
.125 wall mild steel tubing triangulated starting just above the factory LCA pivot point.
Tied into the factory upper and plug welded:
The central span is a piece of 1.750" .134 wall tubing.
If I planned to do what you do, then No Crane, I probably would want some more reinforcement for keeping everything bolstered even better. But for going straight through traffic to the local grocery store, I don't see any reason it wont work just fine.
Attachments
Shaolin Crane
Banned
In the last pictures it looked as if you hacked out the top portion of the stock k-member. Thats what scared me, that looks alot better now that I can see it when it was clean, plus reading and posting from my phone doesnt help
I have never tried it but, since you pulled the eng out without first droping the trans out of the car, I would guess you could but it back the same way if you are careful. I have always pulled the trans off first. I wish I would have tried it your way now. Are you going to paint the whole eng red or just the block? Looking forward to seeing how it turns out though so, keep up the good work Mike.
You sure can. Did it last time I put the engine back in the car.
It helps if the front of the car is raised up a bit. I remember taking the shifter base (still pictured) off once I realize it would be easier with it not there.
Attachments
Shaolin Crane
Banned
No, No, No!! I'm taking about leaving the transmission in the tunnel, and reinstalling the engine w/ the trans in the tunnel. NOT attached to the engine like pictured above.
- Dec 19, 2010
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Mike, if I were pulling the engine out, I almost always pull the trans too. It's just been easier in my experience to get the pilot bushing and clutch splines all jiving together out of the car. I've pulled many transmissions for repair or clutch jobs, and it's hard enough stabbing them under the car, I can't imagine trying to hit the trans with an engine on a one arm bandit at the correct angle. However, I'm sure it can be done, and there are more than a few ways to skin a cat...
Just my .02
Just my .02
