99 Gt Suspension/rear End

So, I lowered my 99 35th gt about a year ago. Never been fully satisfied with the amount it actually lowered. When I purchased the kit it stated the springs would drop 2" front and 1.5" in the rear it seems close but just not satisfying (front bothers me most). When I lowered my car I never got it aligned because it "seemed" like it was fine. Also because I reused my old tires on the front that I had planned on replacing soon anyways. Well now the inner front tire on both sides is worn nearly bald. I am moving my fairly new 275/40/17's to the front on 17x9 wheels and installing my new 315/35/17's on my 17x10.5 rear wheels this weekend. I may go ahead and attempt my stock to 410 gear swap and rebuild my t-lok rebuild this weekend also. I know some of these questions are more than likely explained pretty well on these forums but I am new to the forums and need posts!

I also ordered tubular rear upper and lower control arms, all new polyurethane bushings for the front suspension, and fully adjustable caster/camber plates. I just had a few questions I wanted to ask to get some advise and opinions.

When I pull the front springs and install the new caster/camber plates -- Should I pull the isolators, wrap the bottom coil with electrical tape, and throw a few layers of plasti-dip on the control arms? I feel like that may drop the front a tad more. From another post on this site I found a few people claiming they gained around .5" after doing that. Worth it? Any issues from doing that?

Installing the caster/camber plates: Fairly straight forward? pull the front shocks/springs, remove stock camber plates, and bolt it all back together? Also, is there anything I need to make sure to do while swapping the plates?

Rear end gears and t-lok rebuild: I have a 01 mustang gt with a full oem rear end I was thinking about dropping out and cleaning up the entire rear end then painting it and doing the gear swap on a bench rather than laying on my back under the car (no lift access). I purchased the gears and two separate installation kits (by accident) so I have two of all bearings, crush washers, etc.. My ex-wife had been driving this mustang a few years ago and she loved hopping curbs and not paying attention when she was driving it. If I didn't notice something wrong she wouldn't tell me. So, since I took the car back (about a year ago) and starting messing with it I had noticed a light friction sound that increases in volume as speed increases. I swapped the rear outer bearings twice and checked out my brake system thoroughly. Never tried to replace the inner bearings or axles. From what I explained.. What do you guys think may be wrong? Possible the housing/axle is bent? Or you think it might be just the inner bearings? It is only noticeable from the passenger rear wheel, the axles looked fine when they were pulled a while back but I honestly didn't pay close enough attention. I was going to ask if you guys would just swap the entire rear end out but answered my own question while writing this.. Yes I am doing that. I would like to figure out whats going on with this current rear-end to sell or hold as an extra though. Also, while rebuilding the t-lok with a ford racing t-lok rebuild kit, that is pretty self explanatory right? Seems like just making sure clearances are correct and the discs are in the correct sequence it should be pretty easy.

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks for taking the time to read over this.
 
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I've never ran isolators on the fronts and have never had noise issues. Coil overs and Tubular K members on the other hand are loud and squeaky.

The CC plates install very straightforward (if you're attempting a gear swap this should be easy).

With the rear noise, odds are its a slightly bent axle. I'd highly recommend having them check or now would be a good time to swap in some 31 spline axles for added insurance. I've broken a few stock 28 spline setups with minimal effort.

The housings are remarkably tough. I SHATTERED an axle in my 03 mach dead hooking on the two step. I had to PRY the carrier out of the housing and it all check out fine. The carrier, axles and spider gears were ruined. Amazingly the ring and pinon were perfectly fine.

If you've never attempted a rear gear install I recommend spending the 200-300 bucks to have it done professionally. Rear gear whine is about the most annoying thing in the world and very tough to get rid of if you do not know how to adjust. Not to mention you can ruin a LOT of expensive parts very fast.

One MAJOR thing to remember with a lowered car and new aftermarket rear control arms is the instant center of the car and geometry of the angles of the upper vs lowers. I hooked up ok with stock stuff with 1.75 60's on 17 inch et streets. I put on Team z stuff and started wheel hoping so bad due to no longer having the "flex" of the stock bars. Once the car came off the two step i wheel hopped so bad to break wheel studs. I also think this added to the shattered axle. (I ended up with low 1.6's on stock 3.55 gears) Look for Lower control arms with the brackets to lower the rear mounting point. I ended up having to use the Kenny Brown brackets that needed bolted in (very hard metal in that housing). Once we got those the car dead hooked and was much more predictable. Had I realized this before I would have just bought one of the kits that included the bracket (like the old HPM mega bite jr's, or the Lake wood traction action bars, if they can still be found).

Good luck.
 
I cant add much to the above suggestions but I have everything in my car that has been discussed. Blistein struts/shocks, F/L subframes, isolators, h&r springs, C/C plates, lower adjustable control arms (perfect for getting the rear end height where you want!) . I also did the panhard bar and torque arm so I could remove the quad shocks. I redid the rear end because the gear whine was absolutely awful and I upgraded the differential and upgraded the 28 splines to 31. So I know exactly where you are with things. This is my advice...

1) Do not ever cut a spring that is just ghetto as hell. The isolator just stops metal on metal grinding. Electrical tape is going to do jack s*** to protect you.
2) Because there is no real adjustability in the front, unlike the rear adjustable control arms, you going to have to get coil overs to get that perfect stance. I would get them with a 300lb spring.
3) After all suspension work is said and done, get a alignment. why do all the work to not finish the job. Do it right the 1st time.
4) As for a rear end rebuild I got this.... http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ine-Severe-Duty-Rear-Axle-Kit-5-Lug-373-Gears
you will have to buy new ABS rings and some open ended lug nuts if you dont want to cut the lugs down to size.

I have the exact same problem with my front just like you, I want to do a full k member swap but I just dont have the skills to do it myself, and the labor to pay to do it, is almost the same price as the kit.
fortunately a coilovers are cheap and easy enough to use on your stock arms and k-member. I am going to wait it out until I can do everything once.

here is a pic of my setup
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View: http://imgur.com/a/f097Y
 
One thing to add, you need to figure out if you want a driver, road racer or drag car if your doing coil overs. 300 is great for a road racer but stiff IMHO for Daily driving and WAY too stiff for drag (175ish for drag). Set it up how you like and go with it.