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http://www.dccontrol.com/ check out their fans and controllers, i've heard nothing but good things about their products. A little pricey but will be worth it for the amount of money you have in motor. My old black magic wasnt enough to cool my stang. hey can you let me know how you like...

yea it was a Superchips chip that was burnt while on the dyno. I think it was off some at the begining just because he didn't fully flatten the fuel curve under 3K rpm as long as it was below 12.5. When it got to about 5600 RPM my 36lb injectors started maxing out or it could've been the fuel...

Nice numbers too. Pretty similar to my combo except the intake and cam. I'll through this up here for something to compare combos against. -449 RWHP -443 RWHP -12 lbs. intercooled boost

do lots of searches.. theres tons of info about this.. From what I've researched: Good quality parts: -Transgo shift kits -lentech valve bodies (http://www.lentechautomatics.com/aodhome.html) -Precision Industries Stallion Converter http://www.converter.com/stallion.htm -B&M Oil Tranny cooler...

Not sure if you have a stock tach or not, but with stock tach when you get past about 5000 rpm it starts to go way off. When I got my car dyno tuned, I watched the stock tach compared to the digital computer that was connected to the spark plugs wires and my stock tach was way off. My stock...

I just ordered some of these CAM 1-5/8 SS polished headers for $215 + 12.50 shipping.. I'll let you know how they are when I get them.. if you search on their ebay store you can find it for 215 instead of 240. Here is a link to one of them...

i ran the F cam on a stock shortblock with edelbrock heads 1.90 intake and a procharger.. made good power.. its known for being a good blower cam.. I also had 1.7 Crane rockers so thats around .540 - .550 lift roughly. Just to give you an idea... you should always check piston to valve...

as far as the car wanting to stall when you come to a stop.. what is your idling RPM at when the car is parked? Try turning the stop screw on the TB out more to raise the idle RPM and that may help. As far as surging goes... what size injectors and fuel pump you running? What kinda MAF?

In my opinion, the cobra intake is gonna start to choke up on the top end due to only being able to support around 350HP, which you should be a little above with the stroker, AFR 185's, and tune. I would either port the lower or get a different intake if you want to gain some more power...

i just went through the same thing with mine.. replaced them with tubulars. 1 bolt on each side was stuck in the bushing. I tried everything and the only thing that got mine out was an angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel. I went to Lowes and also Ace hardware and found some bolts that...

for some reason they hit the inside of my weld wheels and bent when i backed out of my garage.. i dont get it.. the stock pads cleared them just fine and the hawks didnt look any different in size as far as the clips stick out.

anyone?

so should I be ok to drive like this or should I wait till I get new pads?

I just got dont redoing the front brakes with some powerslot slotted rotors and hawk performance pads.. problem is the metal clips that hold the outer pads against the caliper broke off on BOTH sides :( . I haven't even driven it yet since I put them on and everything is still new. I still need...

well I just finished installing them over the weekend and ended up using a angle grinder to saw the old ones off.. I only needed to saw one per side. I went to a place called motor city fastener and they had the except size bolt and nuts and it was only 10 bucks total for two bolt and two nuts...

WOW! thanks! I knew that guy at the dealer didnt know what he was talking about.. i got a nut for my motor mounts at a ford dealer last year and they carried them instock. This guy said they stop carrying parts for those mustangs years ago because the aftermarket carried much more than they can...

I tried taking my front control A-Arm off last night and couldn't get one of the bolts out, I got the nut off of it but its all twisted up in the bushings and wont come out at all. I was wondering if anyone knows the size of the bolt and where to get one because I think the only option I have...

im bringing this thread back to life because I just tried to remove my front A arms last night and I had the same thing happen to me.. the bolt is stuck in from the bushings and I can't get it out for the life of me. I can spin the bolt around in there but its all twisted up in the bushing.. I...

hate to say it but I don't think it's possible to leave the quad shocks on because I already had mine flipped when I first tried to bolt up this rim and it hit the quad shock piston.. it was almost all the way on but not quite there.. so you will have to either ditch the quad shock or move it...

thanks guys for the good comments.. i really love the way they look too.. I drove around and checked them again and i dont think I will have any rubbing issues. I still dont know about the fender lips though because I haven't finished my front suspension yet and launching with them yet. Oh and...