Search results

Well, around 60 miles, my CEL just came back on. I had one slight problem with the car (car hesitated when I first started it up and took off, was fine after that). However, I'm only throwing one code now, 1151. I must be making progress... When I got my codes pulled at Autozone a while...

I started the car after putting the new gaskets in and resetting the computer, and it idled a little weird at first (just a rough idle, no jumping or major fluctuations), but that sorted itself out within 10 minutes of idling. I drove the car for 50 miles with no CEL or problems. In the past...

I think I may have found the possible problem.. I went and took my plenum and TB off as a last resort, to check every gasket/seal again. My EGR gasket is pretty pitted up, and there was carbon all over the spot on my plenum where the EGR connects to the plenum (where there's a gasket)...

I believe they output 130 amps, but I am not 100% sure on that.

No exhaust leaks that I know of, also checked for vacuum leaks several times and found none. I'm gonna pick up a new o2 sensor in the morning and see if I can't get one or both codes to go away. I guess if that doesn't work, I'll be taking the plenum and TB back off and checking extremely...

I just loaded a custom tune by Brenspeed and shut off the rear o2s... Still getting codes (these are for upstream o2s)

I just got my SCT Xcal2 in and loaded a tune, and it dropped the P0136 code. I'm still left with the P1151 and P1131 Any ideas what to do now?

Oh by the way, I did this, and like I anticipated, it didn't help at all.

I may try this and see... If I do it to mine, I'll measure where the stock hole is and what size bit to use and let you know.

I'll try it, but I'm not too optimistic... We'll see though. I'm assuming that you meant IAC like Kilgore said?

Unfortunately I'm thinking it's not the idle, as sometimes the car idles fine for tens of stops in a row. Plus, I have problems off-idle sometimes.

I am resetting the computer each time... Also, I figured the TB would be decent, being MAC and all.

Well, of course, the problems came back... Started the car up today and it was giving me problems instantly. I don't understand how the hell I can go 65mi with no problems, then have problems again all of the sudden.

I re-wired one mil (the passenger side, or bank1, one), I cleaned my IAC, I replaced all the shoddy looking vacuum hoses (even though I couldn't find any through and through cracks...) I drove the car for 65 miles, didn't have a single problem, but my check engine light came on after 25. I'm...

Nope, my MAC TB does not have a hole in the blade. My OEM one did. I may try putting the stock TB on later and see if it gives me any problems.

That's exactly how I did it... I used a safety pin as a probe for the middle wire, worked great.

I just got around to swapping the TPS out with the stock one and spraying carb cleaner around all hoses/gaskets/etc to check for leaks... neither one gave me any luck. I have no clue what the hell is going on...

I just tested the middle wire of my TPS (with key turned to acc) and it gave 1.03v closed, and 4.67v WOT. Does this need to be adjusted to be exactly .99v or is 1.03 close enough? I asked the guy to send me a TPS with the TB if he could, as I can't get the old one off of the original throttle...

Thanks for the in-depth reply. I will definitely try this when I get a chance (hopefully tomorrow) and report back with results. Edit: To the person who asked earlier, I checked and the TPS is indeed an OEM part.

I sure haven't, but I have access to a multimeter. How should I go about doing this?