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Any tips and tricks to removing the top bolt that secures the mechanical fuel pump to the engine block without first removing the power steering pump.

Rain water was getting into passenger compartment. Local shop cleared the cowl drains but problem persisted. Top was in pretty bad shape and it was decided that water was entering the passenger compartment via the rear window seal. Top was replaced and problem appeared to be corrected. No...

Suspect that the ignition condenser (capacitor) may be defective. Coil, points, wiring etc. appears to be ok. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the response. However, I found out when trying to solve a repair problem it helps to first read the directions. I found an old Mustang shop manual for a '68 Mustang that described in perfect detail how to remove the panel. Once all panel attaching screws have been removed, remove...

Thanks for the prompt reply. I have visited you-tube and found many videos that cover replacing and upgrading instrument panels but none of them answered the question posed in my query. Several of the videos showed the tech disconnecting the speedometer cable once the panel was clear of the...

When removing the instrument panel is it necessary to first disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission before pulling the panel away from the dash. All the screws have been removed but I feel a great deal of resistance when I try to remove the panel. Don"t want to damage the speedo...

Still reluctant to cut the old panel out until I am absolutely sure it is defective. I believe that the fuse panel for this model mustang was an integral component of the wiring harness but I haven't been able to confirm that. Thanks Shem for your response. Al

Believe the fuse panel is defective. None of the car's lights and accessories work. Have checked the system grounds at the engine block and at the jumper from the starter frame to the fire wall. Battery power exists at the 20 and 7.5 amp fuses but not at any of the three other fuses. None...

I have a 351C engine that has been machined and rebuilt about 5 years ago and has been sitting on an engine stand since that time. Attempted to turn if over manually but felt much resistance. I have not gone into the engine to see if there is any rust or other damage to the cylinder walls but...

I had a feeling jrichker would come to the rescue. Thanks! I have a good starting point and won't feel so bad now when I finish tearing it up.

Me too. Stuck at 4000-rpm after cranking. Seems like a universal problem but I don't want to start tinkering with it until I see what others have done to correct the problem.

Traced down a fail-to-start problem (thanks to info obtained from Stangnet.com) to a computer failure on my '92 GT, VIN 1FACP45E0NF114479, automatic trans. convertible. Replaced the failed unit, EEC-IV SF1-MA12A, A9P, E9ZF-12A650-CA with a unit salvaged from an '89 GT with automatic...

Thanks for the prompt replies. I'll try the acetone and ether. I'm not familiar with the MEK. My plan is to dab a little of the solvent at the top to the bracket and let gravity feed it into the joint. I'll report back on what happens.

Need a solvent to help dissolve the glue that is holding a rear view mirror mounting bracket to the front windshield. Have tried lacquer thinner and alcohol with no success. Any suggestions? I'm afraid to use force for fear of cracking the windshield.

Thanks I was leaning toward Centerforce but had heard they were a little hard on the left leg. Thanks for the reassurance.

Thanks Centerforce was my first choice but I had heard they were hard on the left leg. Thanks for the reassurance.

I'm ready to purchase a new clutch for my '70 Mach 1 with a 351C engine and stock 4-Speed tranny. Would like something that gives reasonable performance without causing left leg muscle cramps. Any suggestions?