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7 years to the day! This post was invaluable to me on my 07. Some slight differences but I was able to replace both cylinders, no muss, no fuss. Thanks for the great write up!

Sorry. Damn autcorrect! Baer. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4

The sleeve won't solve the bumpsteer. Barr has adjustable tie rods that are supposed to do so but I have no experience with them. The real cure is to use 65-66 spindles and brakes. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4

Keep in mind the Granada spindles are not exactly the same as 65 V8 spindles. Some people report have bumpsteer when using them with lowered front ends or really large tires. They also require a different tie rod end OR MustangSteve's 'sleeve' to use 65 tie rods ends

Just keep in mind you only need the parts that are DIFFERENT, unless you are replacing the old worn out parts anyway. If your UCA and LCA are 'fresh', they are fine. The I6 springs are a thinner wire, I believe, so that should be obvious. The other steering components you need will be labeled...

I found the original type harnesses easy enough to use and repalce, but I am quite comfortable with using the wiring diagrams to guide me on where to splice in or add power. I haven't added anything (yet) that added that much to the power demands but if I do, I will just add a secondary circuit...

It is all bolt in. Some things are the same on both I6 and V8's, like the UCA. and LCA. It's really not too many parts that need to be changed, springs, centerlink, idler arm, tie rods and spindles are pretty much it and they aren't overly costly . You can use your old box and becuase the 6 is...

http://www.dodgestang.com/mustang.htm I went with 215/60/15.

Cable routing with Hedman 88306. I did use a stanchion to hold the cable off the headers. I have at least 1 inch clearance and the the slight 'loop' doesn't affect the cable action.

I'll send a photo and re-check my invoice when I get back to CT in May, I know these cars differ somewhat, but this should be exactly the same car to car. You are using the longer cable thean needs to routre around the oil filter, correct? I know that the shorter cable presents melting issues...

I think I recall seeing your posts on this before. What cable and bell are you using, v8only? The 88306 fits mine like a glove.

They sure look the same... "Hedman 88300 Painted Exhaust Header Tube Size 1 5/8"" Coll 3"" Ford 289-351W" "Hedman 88306 HTC Exhaust Header Tube Size 1 5/8"" Coll Size 3"" w/o Smog"

Interesting. I know the 88306 fit perfectly for me. I have the 5.0 bell housing, not an adpated 289 bell and the longer SN95 cable not the shorter earlier version. The cable routes around the oil filter. I thought the 88300 was the same design as the 88306 but that is apparently not so.

The 88300 is the painted version of the 88306. Same tube design. Sounds nice with an H pipe too.

I used an #88306 in a 65, with the same combo. Should work fine for you too.

Exactly, not all racks are created equal. If the radius is reduced, it will be quicker with the same number of lock to lock turns. Combine that with a linear vs. progressive turning response and a rack will be 'quicker' and in some cases quick to the point of being 'twitchy'. Some complain that...

The original ratios were 20 to 1 manual and 16 to 1 power. The 16 to 1 was 3 1/2 turns lock to lock. Unless the turning cirle decreases , a yack with a 3 1/2 lock to lock has a tighter turning circle it will be SLOWER turning than a stock ps setup.

VERY nice! Are you SURE it's done, done? I am always finding one more thing that I just have to do.

With the suggestions made so far, you can easily make that car no longer be "the worst handling car you've ever had". Consider also putting in some torque boxes and adjustable strut rods and maybe even a vario camber kit to eliminater some shims. Make sure you get the preformance alignment, part...

If it is a hard plastic like polyproethelyne instead of a vinyl bag, that would be fine. A vinyl bag will certainly be ruined if nice hot coolant flows into it.