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I guessing it's just worn out. I failed to mention for the lighter to get hot I have to hold it in. While I tried the same method for the gps unit, it just wasn't getting any juice no matter what I did.

any suggestions?

Works fine in all the other cars I've tried (2). I'm wondering if the technology of 1967 just doesn't sync with 2014 even in something so simple as a cig lighter.

My original cig lighter still works. It heated up very quickly. I assumed I could just plug my Garmin into it and get power. Wrong! It plugs in but doesn't power up. Must I replace that outlet with a new one or is there a trick I'm missing?

Found my answer!

I called another local company and they quoted me $850. Best I keep looking.

I like the 3.55 gearing. My "guy" says to just replace the gears will run me $1000. He suggested we replace the entire rear end with a salvage Explorer with either the 3.55 or the 3.73 gears. Says it will cost me less. Does that sound realistic?

So then I'm looking at a new rear end. New gears vs. a cannibalized rear from something else? Any suggestions?

Time to fix up my '67 289 a bit more. I hate the fact I'm turning like 2600 rpm at low highway speeds with my c4. Would like to add an aod and leave the rear end alone (3.08). That will drop my hwy rpms to around 1700. Is that too low?

I'll try that next. Do you think heat has anything to do with it? As in the switch gets hot, the plastic expands and mis-aligns with the contacts? Why won't it work after the car has been running but does when it hasn't been?

The coil is brand new, battery is new and a new 140 amp alternator. It doesn't turn over in park when hot. No click of a solenoid or anything. Just dead.

New problem. When cold, the car starts in "park" and I can shift into reverse and the car goes backwards. When hot, the car won't start in "park", but will in neutral, and when I shift into reverse I can hear the gears engage, but nothing happens. The neutral safety switch has been replaced...

That was a concern...but there's a '67 Fairlane 289 in for suspension work with that setup...that's what gave me the idea. Their bag is vented, but it came that way.

The big question is do I need to vent the washer bag so the bag works as a coolant recovery bag. Seems to me the answer is "yes" so it can fill easily and not have to compress the air that might already be in the bag, but I've had others say "no", not necessary. Any thoughts on this one?

Thanks Hwyman. Real good info.

Slick! Thanks everyone.

I don't have a tach. Based on your experience, what is your best guess at what my rpms will be at 60 mph assuming everything about my drive train is stock (289 and 3-speed auto)?

Looks like my next project will be adding a aod for the obvious reasons. I've had one source tell me that I will need to/want to change the ratio of the rear end. They also suggested JUST changing the gears and leave the trans alone to lower the higher speed rpms. Don't see why I would have...

Thanks for your time and feedback.

Hmmmm. The way mine is set up the control switch is IN this panel just below the slider controls! But the bottom line is, does that "stem" have any value? Will removing it have any negative consequence? I've modified the photo to show you what I'm talking about.