im gonna do the idle checklist, ive got so many things to check i need to make a list so i can check them off. its only about 50 rpm bounce nothing maijor but still there i just find it hard to belive it has a cam since it has stock headers valve covers and a few sketchy fixes. it has a cheap...
im not sure if its a surge or lope, it idles about 700-800 rpms, and the needle is bouncing as idles slightyt jumping up and down, ive got a multimeter with a tach on it, ill check with that to get exact numbers and how much in rpms the jump is.
and when i timed it i set it right on thw timing mark, should i advance it? also it was my first time setting the timing so im not poitive its correct. i was told there was a cam in the car, so this could cause the lope, but i dont wanna do a tear down just to see if it has a cam.
im not gonna clear codes yet, might as well tackle a few things first. where is the map sensor location? gonna try to clean it, and is the tab/tad sensors able to be cleaned? gonna get vacuum tube sizes and check and replace any that look brittle or just might replace all. also i tried setting...
put a new tps in today, got care timed. seems to run a little better and has quicker throttle response, still runs rich and has a lope in the idle, just gonna keep tracking down issues.
youd be surprised how many cars have body filler in them, most any car thats been restored has some amount of it, theres no way to get a straight smooth finish wirh out it if you weld in body panels.
you could pull that out with a stud gun and puller, and just fiberglass the rest to get it perfect, no need for cutting and welding, but deff would hit him with a 3000 offer, since youll need to buy a hood and get it and the cowl painted.
not to switch gears here, but whats the best way to clean nasty seats/carpet? they will be outof the car since im sound deading it, just dont wanna spend the big bucks on new carpet and getting seats recovered.
ill hit up the salvage yards this weekend and find the tab and tad sensors. also gonna stop at harbor freight and get a vacuum tester and compression tester.
i love these mustangs, foxbodys have always been my favorite. i just get overwhelmed with electrical and vacuum issues, since i have no tools needed to do either, and im working on it outside in the heat, but with eveeyone on this forum behind me and helping me i dont see any problem getting it...
i really appreciate all the greatr info guys. ill print this and slowly start plucking away at these issues, i traded for the car, and had about a grand into what i traded for it, so i got the car cheap and its worth fixing up in my opinion since a 100% rust free car of this age in this state is...
ive seen the solinoids with vacuum fittings, some are capped of witha rubber sleve. could you post a link of the page that shows it in your thread, its hard to navigate on my phone lol
really thinking about swapping computers, just to see what ive got. it has the smog pump deleted, felt the back of the heads and it feels as if the holes were pkuged with bolts, as ive read thats how its done, could this cause issues?
im in olivet, just south of lansing, north of battle creek. im gonna het a good multi metter and do some testing, just sounds so nerve racking chaising wires, especially if i need to replace a bunch.
wow, way to much electrical work for me, i knownothing about electrical and i get confused and frustrated easy with it, might just be time to sell it. crazy it ran great and one day all this just started hapening
its has oxygen sensors, was missing one, but now it has both, all vacuum lines are there, im just not sure if it has a smog pump, i never notticed, and yes it is missing the cats, the just an h pipe to flowmasters out the back.
well first order of buisness is to GET it timed correctly, i just hope i DONT have to put the new timing chain set in like the previous owner said it needed.