Search results

Torque Box (Crack and spot welds Coming Apart, HELP!!) Road Race Question Ok, so i road race my car frequently and do a thurough checkup before every event. I have an event coming up at summit point the weekend after next. Anyways while i was scraping the tar paper and painting the trunk area...

I have the CC plates, i guess im gonna loosten the k-member bolts and push it all the way forward and try to realign it. What i did the first time was to measure the front to back and across measurements for the k-member to get it aligned. Should i just forget that and push the k-member forward?

Current readings on the front of my 1990 with the Hal Qa1 Kmember are: Left: Camber -.8* Caster 2.8* Toe -.15* Right: Camber -.9* Caster 3.2* Toe -.13* How are the readings?

help?

ttt

Well I finished the engine, everything runs well. I also installed the Hal K-member. I work at a tire shop so i tried to align it the other day. As usual after a suspension install the toe and camber were out and adjusted fine. However, i could not for the life of me get the caster in line...

they came just about to the top of the deck. they had 4 reliefs i think they are called for the valves. Sorry i didnt take a measurement. all i did was buy the kit, get the crank and rods cleaned up and put it all into a new finished bore block. Not the best way to build is it? I'm also...

i have no idea, this was my first rebuild. I am running GT40p heads whatever the cc is of them. a stock (brand new) 5.0l block and the speedpro pistons that came with the kit. I am using a felpro head gasket. would a thicker gasket help any? Sorry for my crappy knowlege of engines

NM i just rered that it is 10.13:1 with the summit kit. Whit the GT40P heads is this too high compression for a SC?

I just finished my engine rebuild. Its a mild rebuild with gt40p heads and a summit forged rebuild kit. The problem is that summit rates its forged rebuild kit at like 12:1 and the GT40P heads are supposed to raise the sompression ratio more. Can someone explain if the 12:1 ratio is correct...

Getting rid of your puny brakes is a good start :D Or your could go with the MM Grip in a box package.

I have run the Michilen Pilot sports A/S in the past And i do like them. They don't last as long as some of the kumhos but will out perform them night and day. Currently I am running Falken Azenis Sport which wont last me long at all but have incredible handling. I have a new set of Michilens...

I got mine from a SN95 v6 from a junkyard for $12.50

ttt

Can i put a few washers between the k-member and motor mount to shim the engine or does a company make a plate to taise the engine about 1/2" per sided? It looks like it puts stress on the mounts if i use washers. :shrug:

I got the billet distributor that came with an iron gear. I really wasnt expecting to have to change the gear out. If i send it to msd to get fixed can they put a steel gear on while its there?

how do shops press them off and on? do the do it some other way besides using the end of the shaft?

what damage could it do if i did? can it be fixed??

Well today i attemped to press on my new steel gear where i work using the shop press. i drove the pin out and pressed it off. when i looked at the end of the shaft it looked like it was bent a little. not the shaft itself but the tip of the shaft just crooked. did i just mess up my...

sure if you can get your engine to rev to 50k rpm. keep in mind that that is what the typical turbo spins at.