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According to the manual, the T-5 requires the same precautions as the automatic, you must follow the 50/50 rule, no farther than 50 miles and no faster than 50mph. I can tell you from experience that if you don't yank the driveshaft and you exceed those numbers, you *WILL* damage your...

Glad to see you got it sorted out! :nice:

Setting off the airbag by jumping the starter solenoid? That's a new one on me. There's no reason you can't jump the terminals at the solenoid, but if the starter is the same as my '93, all the fender mounted solenoid just triggers the starter-mounded solenoid. But you can at least eliminate it...

Do you hear the starter solenoid clicking? If you do, then the problem is likely somewhere between the solenoid and the starter, including possibly being the solenoid. If you don't hear the solenoid clicking, then you need to check your neutral safety switch, ignition switch and the solenoid.

Any of the later 2.3L WC T-5's should stand up just fine behind a 2.3L turbo. I'm running a 1990 2.3L WC T-5 behind my 2.3L turbo engine with a Turbo flywheel and Centreforce clutch and it's just fine.

The gearing is slightly different on the V8 transmissions, and actual ratios vary depending on which specific transmission you get. Here is a site that has a chart of the available T-5 transmissions. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/T5ID.htm Personally, if you're running a stock...

I'm running a Steeda double-hook quadrant and firewall adjuster with a stock 2.3L cable. The V8 cable has a different end on it, it can be modified to work, but it's better to just use the proper cable.

I don't know for sure about an 85 column, but I put a tilt column from a 87 Thunderbird Turbocoupe in my 93 Stang. I had to change one connector, but pretty much everything else was plug-n-play.

I would only replace the tensioner if it's noisy or feels crunchy when you spin it. Otherwise it's probably fine.

I believe that the overall width difference is 1.5", so you will be 3/4" wider on each side. Unless you're running really wide tires, you shouldn't have any rub problems.

You will need the TC computer and the connectors for the VAM and the VAM itself. For the rest of it just use the existing harness and modify it to suit. Check Stinger's website for more information.

The amplifier is the little black control box for the cruise. I can't get at my car right now to try and look at it, so I'm not really too much help.

I will have a look at my '90 tomorrow if I can. I have the quadrant out of it right now, so if I can get my head up under the dash I should be able to see where the connector wires go back in to.

Hmm, I stand corrected. I guess I should have researched before I opened my mouth. *lol* I thought maybe it was the difference between the WC and non-WC T-5's but it has to do with the 3.97 first gear in the 4-cyl boxes. I'm kind of bummed now that I know this since I suspect I need a new...

I've done a couple of those swaps now, but can't for the life of me remember where the clutch cruise cancel harness was stashed. It may have been taped up in the column harness.

Damn, that has to be the cleanest Fox Mustang underbody I have ever seen.

It's a T-5 transmission.

The ones for the V8 T-5 should fit just fine. I can't think of any vendors off the top of my head, but you should be able to google it.

The extra 0.2hrs is to take off the A/C belt tensioner. It blocks the timing cover and has to come off to get the front cover off. I can't remember if I normally just pull the pulley off, or the whole tensioner. It's one or the other. My car is in storage, so I can't go and look. *lol*

Actually it's 2.2 hours by the book if the car has A/C, 2.0 if it doesn't. Depending on the shop rate $225 is still a little high, but it's not in the 'getting hosed' range. If you figure $60-$65/hr shop rate and $30 or $40 for the belt, $150 to $185 before taxes is what you should expect. The...