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the pedal does sit a bit low at rest, I mean i can pull up on it about an inch. but as soon as the pedal is pressed it engages and moves the piston. I do have an adjustable pushrod coming... The brakes are and have always been manual Another piece to the puzzle, and Im not %100 sure I didnt...

well i went ahead and replaced the master, with a larger one no less 1.25 bore vs 1.0625. Bled and bled and bled, (made a pressure bleeder) and while its much better still seems to be a fair amount of travel in the pedal.... I dont understand what braided lines would have this affect....

Heres the setup. 67 coupe, Front discs from a 73, Master cylinder from a late 90's Explorer, Willwood 4 piston rear disc Just did the rear discs and afterwards it felt like maybe I hadn't bleed it thoroughly enough (was using a vacuum bleeder), But then I noticed it looked like one of the...

yeah no they weren't that creative. Honestly not my favorite shop, but they are good for last minute hail marys, Probably because they don't spend the time to do the job right. Even though it took over an hour and a half, and they gave me some bs about having problems because one of the cams...

Been a bit. coil-overs got delayed. I got them with about 80 minutes to install and adjust before I'd miss my chance to get it aligned so I could take her out this weekend These were definatly worth the wait, super high quality and easy to install. Took longer to adjust them to where I wanted...

got the uppers mounted today starting to take shape again here's an issue that I knew was coming... The spindle sits way too low on the lower balljoint. It completely smashes the boot and I think will bind If the suspension ever hits full droop. I bought a set of qa1 re-buildable ball joints...

I never found much on the install for the Classic Performance Products mini sub frame with tubular a-arms so I'm going to try to document this as I go,, Bear with me its my first build progress write up, and I'm not much for stopping to take pictures. But here I go. So some back story first...

sorry to resurrect such an old thread but i cannot find much on this kit and Im about to install it in my 67. I only recently came across this being an issue... Does anyone know if CPP has done anything to fix this? I see mine came with 3 spacers to put under the castle nut so i assume they...

did you buy the whole kit cpp6770 or just the mini sub? im looking there too and haven't recieved a reply from tech either. looks like a decent kit for the coin comes with an integral power steering box coils caltracs etc.... but no specific list of parts or whats needed to complete it...

sooooooo.... not that ive spent a lot of time on it but im pretty convinced its the box... I found out with the coil plugged in i have little to no voltage to ground but with the coil unplugged there was about 8ish volts... swapped in an old coil and it was the same senario. so is it possible...

last weekend while cruising home my coupe died about 1 mile from home, just died, coasted to the side of the road. i finally get some quiet time to look it and i dont have any voltage at the coil.. i should mention that a few years back i put a mallory cd ignition, coil, dist etc. i have...

ill chime in with my 98 explorer m/c im running brakes from a 73 on both ends, pedal feel is firm but not bad, but im not sure i would like it if the car was an automatic. the only problems i remember were finding adapters to the metric bungs

on alot of the 67's they were missing both of mine included...

just my $.02 cents buddy that is a LOT of work... looks a lot like the fastback in my garage:) with that much damage here would be my game plan. chop the front off, firewall and forward--- gone, then get the one piece frame rail/inner fender/shock towers and build them seperatly as a...

IIRC when i did my 76 bronco in efi i wound up running a relay to get the solid 12v. The relay got its trigger from a wire like your describing that dropped in voltage when cranking, but the load side came directly from the battery. not the most direct A-->B but it worked

the CEL only comes on after its warmed up IF im driving in town (stop and go under 55) otherwise i have driven 2hrs on the highway and it never came on until i hit a town, and do enough highway driving after that it will shut off again... I dont know what to do... it was a little clearer...

i think most commonly its the ignition control module and thats what it was on my ranger its about $130 though...

okay im omitting the egr valve. i pulled off the sensor portion and grabbed the plunger with a set of pliers and it moved quite freely. there is little to no vacuum at the green plastic vacuum line attached. the red going to the switch on the passenger side inner fender has a steady 17 but...

so i ran the codes with my handy little actron KOEO 34 egr valve position 41 EGO always lean KOER 21 engine coolant temp not at normal op temp OR edis fault CPS circut 42 EGO always rich... wait... what? but before you said... 33 EGR valve position not opening or not seated 77...

wel... that wasnt it. Tach works though :) for the first 3 miles of the test drive after swapping modules, it was fine, then about a block from home it acted up again.. i dont know where else to look and its getting steadily worse. last night it was actually bucking like it was stalling out...