Search results

Thanks guys. I was wondering if the drain tubes might have came that way. I had the sunroof out when I had the car sanded down and painted, and thats when the leak started. Very possible all the residue and grime from the body work could have done it?

Yep, just edited for that lol.

Hey guys, I was curious to know if anyone had any culprits to where a water leak could be coming from on the passenger side of my fox. It's coming from the front right corner it kind of looks but it drips right in the center of the passenger seat. Anyone ever had any issues with a water leak...

Lol, yea the sig pic is way outdated, and my avatar is even worse lol. Sig pic is about 5 or 6 years old, avatar is nearly 10 years. Definetly a new look, feel, and vibe. Wheels are LRS's SVE line 10th anniversary cobra replica. 17x10 in back 17x9 fronts. I like em. Headlights are the one...

Finally got her where shes looking near 100% and driving a lot more. Even bought a tremec for her. What you guys think? Driveways sloped back end sits lower than that.

Not as of yet. They're going back in though whether I raise it back up or not.

Qa1 kmember stock control arms, steeda bumpsteer kit, 03 cobra steering rack, mm steering shaft, twin pot pbrs and 13" rotors. Spindles are from a 94/95.

So far no. But the cars been down for 2 years for body work and a overhaul of the suspension and brakes. It's been on 2 trips to my dads store 100 yards up the road, two 3 mile trips to work, and one 5 mile trip on some backroads to test the functions. I don't want to drive it very far yet...

Heres a more accurate depiction of the front and rear stance on a level pad. Somehow the car was parked awkward in the first full shot.

X2 ball joints give it more drop and eibach sportlines drop even more. The rear is a LOT closer than that on level ground

Just curious if anyone had a fox sit this low in the front. Tires tuck, but the fenders starting to tuck over them. Haven't had time to mount the fenderwells in yet. Front setup is Eibach sportlines, tokico blues, x2 balljoints, stock control arms, poly bushings, and MM C/C plates. The first...

I'm going to see if I can figure this out lol. The one feeding the rear was still in place so it was just a pita to redo, the pass front I done some figuring but this driver fronts got me in a loop lol. If anyone gets a pic I would greatly appreciate it.

I ran bfg 255s with bfg comp fronts when I had ponies. Then I switched to the 555rs. The 555rs and the 2+ spec clutch was still enough to rip out plenty of 2nd and 3rd gears. Not as sticky as the bfg's though (until they got hard.) I'd run a BFG or nitto street tire in the front if it was me.

I'm trying to get the car finally running after two years this weekend. I converted 5 lug and discs. I got all the lines ran but the drivers front, and for the life of me I can't remember how it went. Anyone have any pics or decent description? I think I'm over complicating it. Thanks.

Noones ever ran into this problem? Suggestions, anything. The motor stayed the exact same and from what I can see is a fixed length cable. Could the cable possibly have shortened somehow?

Also, does the nylon bushing on the pedal side of things go into the throttle pedal, or is it behind that big washer retainer deal?

I've been building the stang for two years, and I have forgotten how the throttle body cable goes on the bracket. However, either way I go whether the little bracket for the screw is on the front or back side of the bracket, the cable is still too short and holding the throttle about 1/3 open...

Alright, thanks man.

Sorry if I'm flooding the forum with questions here lately, but trying to finish this build up. I've got this connector under the dash flopping around, and I don't remember where it goes. I'm just praying the dash isn't coming back out. Anyone recognize this piece? I pulled the inside out...

Lol, I didn't realize the rear shocks played that big of a role in supporting the rear end when weight is off the rear axle. That and I had the adjustable lowers all the way down. Actually put the lowers first, then springs, followed by moving the adjusters till the springs had tension then a...