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Do you have the car in gear? And no, going counter-clockwise won't hurt anything.

Not at all, I took many, the only thing is I couldn't keep my foot out of it...

I personally replaced the entire rack when one of my inners was bad, I compared the prices of 2 inners compared to the rack and decided to go the rack route. Thanks ponycar17 for the video, I'm sure it helps others understand what you are saying.

I am currently running 17x9 Weld Pro-star XP's on all four, but with a five-lug conversion with no issues whatsoever. 245-45-17 on front and 275-40's in the back, I can fit a 315-35 in the back, which I will do in the near future.

Ice it, push the car through the staging lanes and start the car when they motion you forward to the box. Don't forget to take the bag off before you get up there.

Depending on the depth, you may not be able to get them out. If they are light surface scratches, color sand with 1000 grit, then 1500 grit, and buff with compound followed by a step 2 compound and finally carnuba wax. If the scratches are to the primer or just too deep to sand out, you can...

As long as the cylinder walls aren't scored too bad, you can hone and re-ring your motor yourself. I use the spring loaded 3-stone hone first and finish off with a ball hone. You may also want to mic the cylinder bores to make sure they are true, this checks the cylinder diameter throughout to...

You can also get some sound-deadener/heat soak material at your local stereo shop and place it around the shifter base and over the rubber boot. I did this in my street car a while back and it made a big difference, I know what you mean.

THANKS BRO!!

This is the first year I couldn't make it, anyone there updates are greatly appreciated. How is the weather I know it was a concern? Thanks, Randy.

I just recently owned a 2001 LS1 SS and ran 12.90 @110 on stock tires, manual tranny of course, so if you pulled him up to 100 like you say and he can drive, your car is faster than you think. I sold the SS and still have my 90 notch by the way.

I wouldn't use line lock at the line either, and I also wouldn't want the 2 step to activate during gear changes either. Wire them so you can use them independently. When I had a 2 step, I only used it in the box and at the line. With a 3 step, which I currently use, you can have a burnout...

I agree with the 30's as well, 24's would be sufficient and the 80mm is a great meter.

I had my '93 Cobra wheels chromed and they were about $125 a wheel, so $100 sounds like a decent price.

I had a Crane 2031 with 1.7RR on a car a while back, full off-road exhaust, and it sounded pissed off at idle.

My opinion is a ghost graphic is a great touch because it's not bold. A good graphic like this is subtle enough when driving by people don't notice, but when they get up to the car, "WOW do you see that" is what I would be looking for. So basically, the graphic he will do is bolts of lightning...

I don't plan on spinning it much past 6,000rpm. Also, windage tray or stud girdle? Advice on the block?? The 347 I built for a friend was a CHP and believe me, the car pulls and wants to rev past 6000. He uses 30# injectors with a Holley Systemax II intake and old school Dart Iron fully...

I personally use a Snap-On orbital buffer, very expensive though. I use it at the body shop every day for about 4 years now. I also have a DeWalt orbital, works good, but not as quiet and smooth as the Snap-On. I am interested in trying out the Porter Cable to compare.

Like Michael said, softer bristles than the standard wire brush. On my performer RPM's I even 1500 grit sanded them after I got all the gasket material off. Then of course, I polished the outside of the heads, that took a lot of time.

I've seen 4 lugs ripped clean off at a couple NMRA events, although these cars were in the low 9's.