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Whoa, no emissions testing for 95 and older cars??? If this is true than :banana: Where did you find this info?

Black Fox, thanks for the first link. As for the second...uh, right... Kaotyk, that sounds good. I was actually thinking about bending the clutch pedal a little bit to the left to make more space anyway. On my friends car my foot would sometimes hit the clutch when I used the brake. darn 4 E's.

Are there any other cars that I can use the pedal assembly from besides 87-93 mustangs? Maybe Rangers, Escorts, 94-up Mustangs, etc.? Finding pedals around here is rediculously hard. I just went through the entire used automotive section of my phone book and only 1 place had them for $75. That...

Yes, it would be rather unexpected. I kind of think that if I am going to have a sleeper, I would rather have something like an old crown vic. That way I would still have added benefits(4 doors, huge trunk, great ride). The only problem with sleepers is that by definition they don't look fast...

There is an ad in the local trader post for an 85 cougar and 87 mustang. Neither run. I have not seen or talked to the guy yet, but I was wondering if there were any parts from this car that would be a boost up for a stock mustang(i.e. electric fan, disc brakes, etc.). Also, did these cars come...

If you will notice, I also have had experience with other pickup trucks. The Chevys were more comfortable for me, sounded better to me, looked better inside and out, and were quicker by a large margin. The 99 Silverado was a 4x4 and we used it to the fullest. We beat the hell out of it and it...

I have to jump in and say something. The only 2 fords I like are the 88-93 mustang and the focus. Other than that I really can't stand fords. My friend had a 97 or so Chevy pickup with the 5.7 in it. Only 250hp or so and it smoked many cars. It has even beaten a few older mustangs. It is bone...

I thought that was the case as well, but I've had this problem for as long as I've owned the car. It has been well over a year and I'm pretty sure it had the same problem before I owned it. From what I understand, if it was the u-joints, my car would have taken up pole-vaulting long before this...

I should also add that there is a clunking sound that occurs when I shift from park or reverse to drive. It also happens going from drive to revers/park. Also, at times, if I mat the gas pedal and catch first gear it clunks/bangs/thunks/etc.

Didn't check it. You can move the shaft forward and backwards about and inch or so. Like I said, I was not even the owner when this thing went in. When I have light tomorrow I'll take some photos of it.

I have an aluminum driveshaft. At about 55 miles an hour and above, if I am not accelerating or fully decelerating I hear this horrible rubbing/vibration sound. A friend of mine took a look at it and said that the driveshaft was too short. The yoke sticks out about 3 inches from the tailshaft...

I purchased the summit kit. I must confess that the directions are incorrect. They don't even list all the parts that came with it. Also, the parts seem to conflict with what the directions tell you to do. I guess I should probably call their tech support, but I also just thought that since the...

It is probably caused by similar things, but my windows are well attached, they are just so loose that they flop around. Changing the felt pad helps it to go up without help from my index finger, but its still annoying as heck.

If you fab anything up, perhaps you can post some pics for us so that we could repeat it. As it stands, from my own examination, it seems a combination of loose rivets and metal stamps as well as the regulator arm and assorted hardware deflecting when the window is closed. I guess I was...

Would the stock block take 8k rpm?

*punt* I guess we are the only 2 people to have this problem.

I'm sure that some of you out there have this problem. It is driving me crazy. My power windows are very loose. I have changed the bushings in one window and that helped somewhat, but it still rattles and can easily be pushed side to side and back and forth. If any of you have experienced this...

Sorry, I meant the Steeda ones. The full subframe connectors. 93 real terror, do you happen to know any specifics about that sensor? If not no big deal, I'm just trying to make this as easy as possible for the ford dealership to look up. And as far as the torque boxes, does this mean no more...

So for a quick-fix could I just get those edelbrock full subframe connectors with the torque box reinforcers, or do I need to do something else? I have no idea what the guys who owned this before me did. They said it had a stock suspension, but other things have led me to believe otherwise. Thanks.

Here's the last one. The first torque box is the driver's side, second post is passenger side. The canister must be hooked up to the fuel tank because under hard acceleration and above 3k rpms I can smell a funky gas smell.