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Im pretty sure KB has already put the correct gear ratio on your chip. You must have filled out the order form which asks for your gear ratio. This info will be put into your chip.

Sorry to hear about your luck. I take my rims and tires to an aftermarket wheel dealer. They usually have to be careful not to scratch up the chrome rims so they invest into quality machines and workers. If I were you, I would have the previous installer repair or replace your hard earned rims.

The driveshaft should be in by next weekend, I keep you guys posted.

Try jumping the Clutch pedal wire on the tranny. Like it was stated earlier, if you dont have the clutch in, the car will NOT start. The wire should be on the passenger side and has the cable is a double female.

Just got it yesterday and it is almost completely in. It is a T-56 from RPMTRANSMISSIONS.COM . Just have to wait for the cross member from ford racing ($44.00). Then I will need to take measurements for the new driveshaft. The drive shaft will come from DENNYSDRIVESHAFT.COM for about...

The alarm maker's website.

Have you tried the aftermarket website? Thats where I found my diagram on my old car.

I suspect bad cats. A Muffler shop could probably confirm this.

If your fuel rail has a schrader valve like mine does, you can hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see what kind of pressure you are getting. This should help with trouble shooting.

Sounds like a possible clogged fuel filter. When you shut the car off, the dirt probably settles until you start the car up. This is just a guess.

My Saleen came with factory UD pullies. I think some Roush mustangs also come with UD pullies. Never had any problems with factory radio, or lights dimming or heat. I also thought my car rev upped a lot quicker than other cars without UD pullies. just my .2. :rolleyes:

I took my car last week to the dealer because I thought my U-Joints were also bad. The car "clicked" when I accelerate and decelerate. The problem were loose bolts on the u-joints and transmission mounts. Not the u-joints. Basically the transmission was rocking when I was driving.

The coolant leak is more tnan likely coming from the screws that hold the BIG Black Brace plate on. The instructions says to use thread sealant. I had to use teflon tape to stop my leak. And Yes I think your idle is normal. PS get your Air/Fuel ratio check. Every car is different and it...

My engine idles the same way as yours, it does not settle until the car comes to a stop. It sounds like your BAP is correctly connected. I also have a black wire that is not connected.

No. The 2.2 is a little taller than the 1.7.. I'm thinking about modifying my stock hood to accept the 2.2

Make sure they put those new parts in. Sounds like it could be a scam on Ford. I know they make quite a bit of money on warranty work. I went in one day for a valve cover leak, and 15 days later I came out with a brand new Head job. Who knows.

I hope you get your problem fixed, at a better price. I was quoted about 350 to replace a clutch, but I had already purchased a new clutch and a new throw out bearing.

I had to switch to a Centerforce, because the stock on my T-45 was slipping. I dont drive at the track, but I do drive hard on the road.

Im using a Centerforce dual friction and it works great. The pedal feel is just a little stiffer, but Ill get use it. No need to resurface the flywheel.

By the way, can you send me my dyno graphs.