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T5 is going to be the most economical option with overdrive. The TKOs and T-56 will require modification of the transmission tunnel to get the right pinion angles. It will bolt right up and all you need is a T-5 crossmember which you can buy for $150 or just fab up yourself. No vibrations and...

So the time has finally come that I am moving to Los Angeles and as I won't initially own a home with a garage I am wrapping up all the details on the stang. I plan to drive the car daily when possible, I have another car, but have been limited in Utah. Now that I will live somewhere warm I want...

The LM-2 was the one I was looking at. I was planning on going with the basic kit, since the car is just carbureted. Also don't think I would benefit from dual o2 sensors because I can't really tune individual cylinders. I was planning on welding the sensor right at the collector on my x-pipe...

Hey guys I need to iron out some bugs on the cars tune, and want to get all the driveability issues smoothed out before I start some serious dyno tuning. I was wondering if you guys have any recommendations on a wideband air/fuel ratio analyzer or gauge? I need a kit so I can drill the collector...

A retrofit requires either using vertical link lifters like the ones I have, which cost $500 for the lifters alone. Doing a retrofit requires the use of a reduced base circle cam which gets reduces the high ramp rates, an associated benefit with a roller cam. He has to redo the whole bottom end...

Depends on how much boost you are planning on. 9:1 would be fine for some boost, once you start to get over 400rwhp you are going to have to worry about the block though. I still recommend you find a roller block and throw your goodies on that, you are giving away some easy horsepower and...

This. Like Hack said the shock is what will break it free, get a BFH and hit it hard. If you aren't hitting it at the right angle it won't come apart either, you got to get it nice and square. So make sure the car is jacked up and you have room to work. If the hammer alone doesn't work then go...

If you are going to sink the money to stroke it at the very least go with a roller block out of the 5.0s. They are relatively cheap and easy to find. With a 347 stroker, roller block, and decent heads/cam/intake you can easily get over 400hp without breaking a sweat. You might even be able to...

Go with the 3.55s bare minimum, with you having a T-5 the 3.73s are perfect though. I recommend checking on the 5.0 section and they will tell you the same thing. The fact that it is a street driver and doesn't see a lot of highway time makes me say definitely go for the 3.73s. 3.73s work great...

This is good advice, makes for a really good picture of what's going on. What is your total timing and what rpm is it all in at? Best approach is to do deal with it one at a time. Get the timing set correctly, then work on the carb.

I say go for the 3.73s. A lot of the 5.0 guys like them with the T-5, I did. If your T-5 has the 3.35 first gear ratio the 3.55s would work fine, but the drivability is not that different between that and 3.73s. I went with the detroit locker and am very happy. Traction-lok still wears and turns...

You can fashion a solid lifter with the old ones, I just took them apart and filled with JB Weld, had a solid lifter in a couple hours.

Hey guys I am installing the Global West UCAs with roller perches, konis, and new springs. I was wondering what you guys do as far as torquing the control arms to the shock towers. The instructions say to torque them to 80-100 lbs/ft. I cannot seem to figure out a way to fit a torque wrench into...

The adjuster nut issue is not one I have run into. It doesn't need much preload, should just rest on the fingers of the pressure plate. It shouldn't be walking out though. I wish you the best of luck in bleeding it, if it's a pain then you are on the right track. I probably spent more time...

Hmmm I will take a gander at that, haven't used the hydroboost. Been MIA becasue of work so the car now sits in the garage with no front suspension. Figure I will put her back together, then tackle this vacuum issue.

No offense man, but $6500 is really steep for a rusted through M code shell.

I have thought about just going manual brakes. Didn't know how well they work with my planned 4 wheel disc brakes. I already spent $500 on vertical link roller lifters so I don't want to change them, an extra 2" of vacuum only puts me at 9" anyway. Figured $300 to just plumb one of those puppies...

Finally tired of the heel toe crap I have to do, in order to stop the car with power brakes. I am going to put discs in the rear next winter, and the current setup just isn't cutting it with a vacuum canister. Any recommendations or preferences, I was just going to get the summit one and hide it...

Highly motivated, good with metal, but haven't done a ton of welding. Have friends that have though, I am always learning and need to start somewhere. I would like to do make that my little project during the summer.

That is what I have been going for as well. Haven't looked at the classic performance kit, but it looks like a nice kit. I pretty much have everything you just listed there sitting in my garage other than LCAs. It's my to do list this winter. If I make up my mind on UCAs and the salt gets washed...