69 mustang suspension

bfed

New Member
Jan 1, 2012
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Rebuilding the front and rear suspension on my 69 Mustang. Car will be driven on week ends hard street and track. Would like suggestions on manufactures of parts or kits. Would like to lower the car front and rear. The car has power steering and front disc brakes. I also need help with tire size for that set-up.
 
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I am currently running global west leafs with del alum bushings, and Koni shocks in the rear. Really pleased with that setup, as I had really bad wheel hop and it eliminated it without traction bars. Also stiffened up the ride nicely. I currently have Opentracker roller perches, new lowering springs, and Koni shocks awaiting install up front. I was gonna bolt them up but I am thinking of replacing the upper control arms as well with some roller ones after seeing how terrible movement is on the factory ones. So I haven't tried the combo till I make up my mind on which set I want.
 
You should include this-

Arning/Shelby Suspension Drop
Lowers the car about 5/8" (that's a side effect, the real improvement is the geometry) and improves handling dramatically.
2+2GT
I have been reading about the Shelby drop. Last night I found a web site "Opentracker" and they provide you with all that info. Do you know anyting about that company? I also found a web site in this forum called "Mustang Barn". Everyone looks the same but I m sure some components are better then others. I like to research before I start buying. Any help in this area would be appreciated. Companies that I researched are "Global West"," Mustang Barn", "Opentracker", "CJ PONY", "NPD" and "Mustang Depot' and "Summit".
 
bfed,
Be aware that not all suspension/steering parts are NOT created equal!:nono: Upper control arms are available in a wide variety of quality and prices. I put all new stuff on my 68 a year and a half and 12,000 miles back and the upper arm shafts/bushings are already getting loose again.:mad: At the time I bought them from NPD, there were 2 different units available and I bought the supposedly "better" of the two supposed to be McQuay-Norris brand. If you can find (and afford) actual MOOG brand, you may have better luck. Opentracker is a very good and reputable company with great product support and at the very least, I suggest you go with their roller spring perches or get their kit for converting/upgrading your old ones if you are skilled enough to do it. There is still some debate about the durability/longevity of rollerized upper control arms, but it seems like an improvement over OEM. For tie rod ends, at least make sure they are greaseable.
HTH,
Gene
 
bfed,
Be aware that not all suspension/steering parts are NOT created equal!:nono: Upper control arms are available in a wide variety of quality and prices. I put all new stuff on my 68 a year and a half and 12,000 miles back and the upper arm shafts/bushings are already getting loose again.:mad: At the time I bought them from NPD, there were 2 different units available and I bought the supposedly "better" of the two supposed to be McQuay-Norris brand. If you can find (and afford) actual MOOG brand, you may have better luck. Opentracker is a very good and reputable company with great product support and at the very least, I suggest you go with their roller spring perches or get their kit for converting/upgrading your old ones if you are skilled enough to do it. There is still some debate about the durability/longevity of rollerized upper control arms, but it seems like an improvement over OEM. For tie rod ends, at least make sure they are greaseable.
HTH,
Gene
Gene great response. I have been reading blogs all day and finding many opinions. I agree with you 100%. I am not shopping this out. I am trying to rebuild the car so it will handle great and make it look like Shelby would have built. I find it very interesting that many of the same names are kicked around. Two that seem to have the best rep is OT and Mustang Plus. I have sent John OT an email this afternoon. They are not answering their phones. What would you add to the car?It's a 69 Mustang Coupe 1 owner from Cal. It's not very desirable but the body is in great shape. It would be a sin not to improve the ride and stance. I think UCA and LCA, roller pearches, 560 front springs, new leaf for rear not sure who's and new wheels and rims. Like old American Mag style. Any other idea's? Like your impression. Thanks Bill
 
This is what I've decided to go with, the one called the "New Kit":

http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/2006/NewFiles/NovaSubFrame.htm

I was going to get the "Standard Kit" but now, given that my "NEW" upper arms are crappin' the bed, I'll get the one that includes the upper arms. A few folks here have used this and really liked it. I'm especially impressed by the added frame stiffening, elimination of the strut rods AND the apparent ease of obtaining and keeping a precise alignment. I already have roller perches that I made with a kit from Daze Cars:

http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/opentracker

You should also read these items:

http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop

http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/bump

http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

HTH,
Gene
 
Gene great response. I have been reading blogs all day and finding many opinions. I agree with you 100%. I am not shopping this out. I am trying to rebuild the car so it will handle great and make it look like Shelby would have built. I find it very interesting that many of the same names are kicked around. Two that seem to have the best rep is OT and Mustang Plus. I have sent John OT an email this afternoon. They are not answering their phones. What would you add to the car?It's a 69 Mustang Coupe 1 owner from Cal. It's not very desirable but the body is in great shape. It would be a sin not to improve the ride and stance. I think UCA and LCA, roller pearches, 560 front springs, new leaf for rear not sure who's and new wheels and rims. Like old American Mag style. Any other idea's? Like your impression. Thanks Bill

That is what I have been going for as well. Haven't looked at the classic performance kit, but it looks like a nice kit. I pretty much have everything you just listed there sitting in my garage other than LCAs. It's my to do list this winter. If I make up my mind on UCAs and the salt gets washed off these roads I'll try to take it out and let you know how it drives. I have everything ready to go just need to get UCAs so I can bolt it all back together. I will most likely go with global west since I have been happy with their rear suspension components. I am strongly considering opentrackers UCAs because of the excellent quality and reviews but don't know if I want to spend extra just because they are not a tubular kit. I am running mag 500's with my setup and couldn't be happier. I want it to drive like a new car, but look like a factory car.
 
I was going to suggest reading the Daze Suspension 101 article that Gene posted and reinforce the vote for John at OTR. I made the mistake of trying to do my suspension on too much of a budget and wasted money on an all in one GAT set. The LCA bushing slid in it's mount and allowed the arm to rub in the lower boxed mount, also the UCA shaft nuts slowly unscrewed and I now have no idea if the shaft was even centered before install.

I have replaced the LCA with Moog units like John sells and will eventually replace my LCA with his street prepped (centered, cap stop welded, deburred) units as they are only ~$40 more for the pair over my cheap ones, lesson learned. I also got John's roller perches, big improvement over the super hard (bind) stock ones. Just holding the two in your hands immediately drives home how much bind the stock ones cause and how the rollers allow the suspension to change quickly with road conditions.

I also went with the 560 1" lower springs and 4 1/2 mideye rear leafs with Energy polyurethane bushings, no squeek when liberally lubed on install. My Car sits almost level and the 15" tires are 1/2" from fender lip ht. so it's got the hunkered full wheelwell look.
Jon
 
i rebuilt my uppers. i did some mods i had read about involving grind a slight groove through the threads of the control arm shaft (improved greasing) and welding the nuts to allow for no-binding through the range of motion.

i'll never really know if it made any improvement or not besides how free it felt moving it up and down.

also made the roller perches (not convinced those will really make a difference either).

IMG_01701.jpg
 

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