It's not the input/booster that is different. What is different is the pedal rod and where it connects on the pedal. The earlier years (and manual brake cars) have a "bent" rod and it connects higher up on the brake pedal. The '70 has a straight rod which connects lower on the pedal to make...
Yeah, saw that. It's a pricy unit tho.
Apparently a master cylinder for a mid 80's mustang is also 7/8th. Only issue with using one of them is that the outlets are on the wrong side requiring you to build custom brake lines.
I'm starting to wonder if something else is going on tho. I...
Hi All,
Just finished installing SN95 Cobra Brakes Front and Rear on my 1970 Grande using a kit from Street or Track.
Everything seems to work well except for the pedal effort. I have to stand on the pedal to get the car to quick stop and I don't think I could lock the wheels up if I tried...
I've used the VHT high-temp stuff in the past with poor results (it started to flake off).
Best I've found is "Satin Black" from Techline Coatings. It's not cheap tho and you need your own gun.
Sounds very similar to my setup. And I thought things were tight in the 70!
Are you going to run an intercooler? Now THAT would get interesting! Tho it may be possible depending on how far back your motor is. Might want to consider a alcohol or water injection system instead (unless...
Anything is possible. But that is one tight fit. Nobody mass produces a set, you may be able to get them custom made. Send 10secGoal a PM.
There are lots of reasons to choose a turbo over a supercharger. Generally, clearance issues and/or lack of engine compartment room isn't one of them...
The pump is easy to replace. Getting access to it can be a little tricky, especially if you have power steering. One of the easier jobs tho.
However, I've never seen/heard a loud mechanical pump. Are you sure that the noise is coming from your pump?
I've got a holley 900cfm TBI unit controlled by a megasquirt II ECU. It's a huge improvement over a carb.
Cost and ability to support my HP goals (500-600HP eventually) were the 2 biggest reasons for going this route.
I'd do it on a motor that is gummed up. However, I would pour in 1qt and drive for about 100miles before a filter and fluid change. Doubt you'll have to drop the pan, it's not a miracle just oil with more detergent in it.
It's a good solution for a boosted application, but wouldn't really work for a high-compression engine. You don't want to have to inject that stuff all the time or you'd be constantly refilling the tank.
The only times I've EVER seen broken cast wheels was because of accidents (usually sliding into a curb). And in those cases, steel wheel wouldn't have broken, but they would have bent and been unuseable anyway.
90% of the time, glowing headers are a result of too little timing. I would break out the timing light 1st before doing anything else.
Don't let people tell you that it's too lean. While a lean condition can create a lot of heat, that heat is usually contained in the combustion chamber...