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Save money now to do it right later, the engine still runs right. Then buy all forged and get all the block work done, you will be glad you did.

You will have to take your 94 stuff off to work, I'm not sure but I think you will have to take of valve covers too.

Money being most peoples factor for up grades. I would go with headers, Intake, then heads and cam or if you have money to blow all at the same time.

If you are putting in a S trim, if you are going that far put in forged pistons and rods too.

Yep thats where I go Keith will do you right. :banana:

Hey thanks man, yep I'm here too.

YEA but you live PA, much cooler there.

I have a 94 and it has always run warm in the summer, but here in AZ the temps 100-120 every day and I have a supercharger. I have tried Fluidyne Radiator, water and water weter only, High speed fan on all the time, 170 thermostat then a 180, new air dam under car, oil cooler,7 qt pan 8 with oil...

94-98 tail lights fit the same. I like the looks of the 96-98 light better so I put them on my 94 and the wiring harness will fit but one light will fit loose so I made a clip to hold it in place. I have a friend that just left it loose.

I'd be in if the price is right

I get alot of parts from Jegs too, and most of the engine and tranny parts are the same as the fox parts. From throttle out different,water pump and headers. Most of body parts same 94-98 and if not will work. Easy to find parts for and I think the after market will last for many years, I like...

I guess I was lucky had no problems with my 3550, I think they are the same as the TKO (TKO shaft bigger). I do miss third from time to time but I think that is me. Did the install by my self (wife did run the jack), and I went from an auto to the 3550.

I know I like my tubular K member makes everything so much easyer and big weight savings :nice:

Sure am glad you went with 42's I tried to get by with 30's and a tune and the hole thing went bang #8 cylinder and piston all over the place. :damnit:

Get rid of those heavy ass stock seats. :banana:

Just because it clicks doesn't mean it is sealing as for a multimeter it measures resistance and current, you will have to have a manual to find out what the reading spects are on Purge Flow (PF) sensor or Vapor Management Valve (VMV). As for trouble shooting from here if buying a new fuel cap...

P1443 EVAP Vacuum System, Purge or VMV Fault Several conditions can cause this code to be set. A loose or broken gas cap, a damaged carbon canister, damaged or plugged fuel vapor hose, a damaged purge solenoid, Purge Flow (PF) sensor or Vapor Management Valve (VMV) are all possible causes. A...

Just talked to a friend that is one of the best 4.6 mechanic there is, he said find out what the code is first then if it is co2 MIL's are bad, anything else I will have to call him back. But first step is what code.

Stop at any autozone have them check what the code is, I'm not a mod person but I always thought MIL's took care of any engine codes, but if it is throwing a code find out what it is.

You will have to have MIL's on or it wont pass, went with a friend of mine twice (has MIL) they didnt check anything more.