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Ended up having to get mine repaired. Cardone was out of stock and that's apparently who every parts store I tried gets thiers from. 100 bucks, 1 week round trip. Started up n ran fine 1st try. Now it's gonna rain every day for the next week... dammit! Thanks for the help again good people

Well. I don't got it. Put the new ones in, must not have done a good enough job, no CEL now along with no prime. Guess I'll be getting a new/reman one. Suggestions?

Thanks man. Appreciate it

Yup, blown capacitor. Thanks for the link. Only the one looked bad. You can see its leaking in that pic. Ill have the 3 that are common done though. Hopefully I know someone that can teach me while doing it, I'll tap some resources tomorrow. I always doubt myself, gotta quit that, lol. thanks...

Well, I tink dat be dat. Glad to know the problem. Hope it's the only one. Now for the fixin. I've never soldered on a board, any suggestions on where to send it? Thanks as always folks!

That's what I thought too. Nothing else aside the ecm can make that ground from what I read. Right? Is there anything else I can do to test it? I read about grounding pin 22, and starting the car. if that ground makes the pump run, (Already know mine does), start it. If the car does start, the...

Indeed I did. Checked it, tripped it, bypassed it. Lol. All good there. Same voltage in n out.

Yes this is the list I used. My post was the results of all these tests. Would the pump run jumped if the connector for the pump n sender was bad? That's the only voltage I missed getting. But it ran jumpered by test connector and with pin 22 grounded from the pin to chassis. I've read that...

I did open it. Wasn't sure where to look. Or what it looked like good, or bad. Everything seemed to look ok from what I could see.

Hi people, haven't popped in here in a long time. No running car / No problems in years... After about 4 years of no Stang here I got her up this summer, running nice, n on Thanksgiving she just quit. Seemed like the fuel pump relay so I swapped it with the AC cutoff. I worked one more time n...

It is running great as is.

Really follow that list, go in order, take your time, and be thorough, youll get it. If there is something you dont know how to do these people can walk you through it. It will save you money and time you may waste chasing your tail.

Yeah everything was set up correctly. After looking at a bunch of other accel distributors I think those instructions are generic for lots of different models and the adjustable advance part is for other distributors, not mine. Is there anything else I can check, figure Ill give it 1 more shot...

Me too, did you look at the link? It says "as delivered, the mechanical advance in your new distributor is set at 12* distributor (24* Engine) and totals at 2800 engine rpm". Page 2 is all about instructions for Mechanical Advance Curve Changes

It has the grey TFI on the dist, when I ran it it seemed like it wasnt advancing the timing like it was supposed to. After install the car ran, timing was steady at 14*, but it didnt pull even through the range. Kept feeling like it was dropping off or just not all there power wise. Didnt know...

So I grabbed a billetech distributor for cheap. It is part no 60201A, Accels' website says this is for an auto trans, 60201M says its for a manual trans, and 60201R is remote mount. I know about that one marked R but why would the units be different between auto and manual ? Never seen...

Looking into get the stang tuned. Anyone know a good spot in NE Ohio? Or is going with something like the QH, tweecer better? Thanks -j-

Thats how I want to do it, just started looking into getting someone to do the tuning. Anyone know a good spot in NE Ohio? Or a better / different way, moates, tweecer? Agreed, its a must have, teaches me something new every time I read through it

Listen to This Guy ^^^^^. Best advice IMO is be thorough you will find it. Just went through similar stuff , followed his advice and no more issues. Thanks by the way there J.

Plugs on the pass side are way easier to get to to check or change also a plus. Far as i know none of the codes you end up with (No CEL, my codes are 33, 44, 94 - egr and secondary air injection) affect drivability, didnt for me. I did all this too. I left egr in place just capped vac to it. Ive...