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I never said they were longer than the factory progressive rate springs, I said they are longer than a specific rate spring. You'll also notice I put this guy= :shrug: after the sentence. First time I've ever heard that about having to hold the spring in place. Guys I've inquired about...

Well it is metal on metal without the isolators ... and the cups on the arms were not designed to cradle the springs perfectly. The cups are designed larger in diameter to have an isloator on the spring ... without an isolator it just seems like too much of a gamble to risk over $50 worth of...

I second spring isolators ... they do improve ride quality as well. I've heard the BBK c/c plates don't hold up for very long. You can get the Maximum Motorsports units for 189 shipped from www.mustangtuning.com I also recommend doing the offset rack bushing or a bumpsteer tie rod kit...

Mine snapped at the quadrant ... might have been getting battered by the 2nd and 3rd hooks :shrug:

Did you pull the codes?

They might be a bit big, but who needs low end in a Japanese tin can: http://www.tristatecylinderhead.com/catalog/

I use a UPR triple-hook quadrant and firewall adjuster with the factory cable. It works real well and reduced pedal effort along with added durablility. I had to hook the cable to the second (middle) hook because the cable is non-adjustable down at the fork and is factory length. I...

The rear raked look can easily be solved by a pair of weight jacker lower control arms. Plus if you have drag slicks for the rear you can also raise the back for clearance if you ever go to the track. :nice: I had a slight rake on mine. I bought the Steeda aluminum jackers and they are...

You smell 'gas' :barf:

Got pics? :)

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=614515

Gotcha ... I was under the impression you were saying the vibration would change with an increase in rpm as the mph remained constant ... not that speed changes the vibration so much.

If rpm affects the vibration than I wouldn't bother with the pinion angle myself. :shrug: Not ruling it out, but my thought is that at 70mph the driveline rotates at the same speed regardless of which gear the tranny is in. I would be more inclined to believe a bearing in the row-box is...

Well you better put in battle boxes and then stiff weld the control arms to the axle and the boxes, lol ... With that tight of a fit you definitely don't want any side to side movement. Plus the car above has had a 5-lug conversion done ... which brings up a whole different set of...

That's the better option, but sometimes twice the price as the shelf grind.

One word: M O N E Y ... they got yours :rlaugh: j/k :nonono:

My condolences :( ... and a free post :D

Since you're running larger valved heads (and I assume stock pistons) you want to run a cam that isn't excessive in lift and duration. If it was my car I would go with a Trick Flow stage 1 or the tried and true E.

He bought exhaust from Summit :rlaugh: Whoops, sorry, wasn't supposed to laugh.

Yep, but which brand you buy and which finish makes a difference. The only 2 manufacturers that I'm aware make a 17x8 is Ford and AFS. :shrug: Like said above, if buying chrome, I can justify buying two different brands for front and rear respectively. But if I was going to buy a silver...