347 Stroker Kit

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by AznStanger3v, Aug 11, 2003.


  1. yellow5.0cobra

    yellow5.0cobra Founding Member

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    NO, the computer will not have a problem learning the fuel curve itself, but you are just placing it with the same calibration as the one on your car(stcok 19lb injectors).

    If you are going H/C/I route, dont buy a STOCKcalbrated MAF, you will have no purpose for it later, and it will be an additional $100 to re-recalubrate it to 24lb injectors, which will be MORE ideal for H/C/I setup's.


    Sorry for mispelled words, my comp is on the fritz.
  2. Jmet

    Jmet New Member

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    sorry, i got bored with the 5.0 talk and decided to see whats up with you guys...

    American cars rock!! :flag: :flag: :flag:
  3. grumpyemt

    grumpyemt New Member

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    First off what is your driving ability? At 17 I'm guessing moderate driving ability. Learn to handle a car properly before you dump alot into your engine and drivetrain.
    Low performance driver + High performance car = death

    If your driving ability is up to par, Start with the basics (airflow in and airflow out) I personally going with a C&L mass air system, large bore throttle boby, free flowing exhaust. I like the looks, sound and awesome power you get out of Ford Racing side exit exhaust. Free flow Cats, X or H pipe (off road) and if the green stuff is avaliable long tube headers.
    That will take the better part of an afternoon to install. Next go with under drive pulleys ($109.88), maybe an intake (ford racing GT-40 $599.95) then if you still need more power, go with a good set of Aluminum heads (once again ford GT-40 is my choice)
    finially if you still need more, stroke that bottom end (don't skimp on this one there are many cheap kits on the market. if you do your homework you can find one for around $1000 + machine work on your block (bore 0.030 and clearanced for the longer rods) don't forget to install a main stud Girdle, this will increase your blocks strength.
    And for ultimate power throw a 200 shot of juice to it. don't push button the NOS, install a full throttle switch ( this in my opinion is the only way to go with NOS. it won't kick in till you are at full power and is a much tamer animal to deal with.
    But that is just MY opinion, so take it for what it's worth. :shrug:
  4. stunner6910

    stunner6910 New Member

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    blackmagic, if he doesn't take the MAF, I will. do you have any pics? also, can you post some pics of the WMS tube?
  5. ponypowa2

    ponypowa2 New Member

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    I thought the supra was a japanese supercar, shouldnt we compare it to an american supercar?
  6. KingDiamond

    KingDiamond New Member

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    I'd go with a used nitrous kit if I were you. See if there are any localized forums in your area and you might find someone selling a used kit for $250 - $300. Then get that installed, change the fuel pump to a 255 lph for $200. Put in the 125 shot jet and you can get some awesome gains. I think I remember someone here gained around 150 ft-lb of torque from a 125-shot of nitrous alone.
  7. donjohn

    donjohn New Member

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    kind of a ressurected thread... 17yroldstanger has been here for a while, he's almost 18 in july i think he said
  8. Jamie55

    Jamie55 New Member

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    Cast vrs Aluminum

    Can anyone tell me if there is a big dif between Cast Heads vrs Aluminum besides the weight. Can the Cast Heads be polished, polished and massaged as good as the aluminum? I'm wondering because I got a free set of GT40 Cast Iron Heads and have heard from old time builders the Cast Iron is a better way to go but here heaver? Sorry about the spelling but no spell check on StangNet........lol I really would appreciate some input as i'm in the process of building up my parts before I start my build. Thanks:OT: :OT:
  9. Nagash01WS6

    Nagash01WS6 New Member

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  10. Killercanary

    Killercanary The car that set the bar. Founding Member

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    Jamie, both heads can be ported, so that really isn't an issue. Most aluminum heads flow more than a box stock GT40 head though, and with porting they can flow a lot more. I have heard for years too that iron heads can make more power than an aluminum head due to the heat retention properties of iron versus aluminum, but I'd still pick aluminum everytime. I don't think the difference is power would even be enough to offset the 50lb difference between the two heads. if the GT40's are free, then have a go at them if you are still running the stock E7TE's. If I were you though I'd probably sell the Gt40's and use the money towards a set of good flowing aluminum ones, that's just my opinion though.

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