94-95 CARB SET-UP HELP!!!!

95five-ostang

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Jan 5, 2006
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I AM DOING MY FIRST CARB SET UP ON A 95 MUSTANG GT AND ALL THE SITES I HAVE BEEN TO HAVE BEEN FOR NO LATER THEN 93 CAN SOME ONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT ALL I NEED IS JUST THE WIRING AND SOMEONE OUT THERE HAS TO BE ABLE TO HELP I JUST DONT KNOW WHICH WIRES TO TAKE OUT AND WHICH NEW ONES TO RUN PLEASE HELP!@!@!@!@!
 
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Figure out what your setup is going to be.. Are you using stock gauges? If you're using Autometers, you'll have a MUCH easier time of it.

Do yourself a favor and put Autometer gauges and an MSD 6AL box on the car. If you do this, you can basically remove the whole engine bay harness (Passenger firewall corner, big connector. Unbolt it and every wire coming off of that can be removed.)

If you want your stock speedometer to function, leave your computer mounted in the kick panel and leave your transmission harness connected.

For throttle cable, get a older Fox throttle cable (79-85 works great) It's a direct swap-in cable.

Ignition: Use an MSD 6AL Box and a Blaster 2 coil.
Distributor: Either use an MSD Distributor for a carbed car, or get a dizzy off of an older carbed fox. Connect this to your MSD box. Remember to verify your Dizzy gear is correct for your cam before installation.


Intake setup: Get a carbureted intake... Basically any intake you want that fits a 302.. Doesn't matter if it's off a year 69 or a year 85... Just pick one that works well with your particular setup. Popular intakes are the Edelbrock Torker II, Weiand Stealth etc.. Check out summit for ideas and find a used one on eBay.

Carburetor: Find a size that works well with your car/combo. Be careful buying a used carburetor, it's not hard to mess something up if you're playing with stuff you shouldn't be.

Fuel system: You can use your stock tank and use an intake pickup with an external pump (linked below) or some people regulate down their stock pumps and run it like that... I really don't like this, as you're regulating a 85+ PSI pump down to 7 PSI... I prefer just to get an Electric Low-Pressure pump like a Holley Blue or a Barry Grant. I personally ran a Sumped tank with a Barry Grant 280GPH pump.

Fuel tank pickup to run an external pump with a stock tank
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PAX-8F010-010&N=700+115&autoview=sku


Other than that... Just use common sense, clean your enginebay and have fun!

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diablo great post. I have a couple more questions I hope you can answer. I'm looking to do a 95 v-6 to 331 swap soon.

1) By disconnecting the harness into the engine bay, i assume there must be some other way to get power to the ignition?
2) If you want to maintain ALL other functions of the car (power windows/locks/radio/ect.), does pulling the harness out of the engine bay allow that to continue?
 
thats good to hear. I already have a full MSD set up. All you really need for that is a power wire to the coil/box, and an ignition swith on power source.



Yes. All you need is the MSD setup and a ACC Power On trigger wire to turn the MSD on. The engine bay harness can be removed without affecting anything else. Even the keyless entry works (I don't know why, but having keyless entry on a carbed car seemed to impress the people who rode in my car? :shrug: ) I guess they thought it was too oldschool.
 
I am thinking about converting my 410 to carb while it is still in the Stang, since it will be converted to carb anyway when it goes into the Fairlane. That way, I will be that much more ahead of the game when it is time to swap it into the Fairlane.

I would probably get a QuickFuel carb because I am told they have separate adjustments for idle, part throttle, and WOT.

It actually looks pretty straightforward, but I am curious about the gauges ... what needs to be done to keep the stock gauges? Where does the tach get its signal?

I know people might think it doesn't matter if the gauges don't work in the meantime, but to me, it does matter, and here's why:

There are a couple of folks I have talked to recently who have indicated they would be interested in buying the Stang with the 410 in it after I get it on the road. If they are willing to pay the proce, then I might probably sell it. In that case, the gauges will have to work.
 
Stock Gauges....


Take your engine bay wiring harness, start at your gauge sending unit and trace the wire back from there. You'll need to remove the electrical tape from the ENTIRE harness to trace your wire for each gauge to the PCM connector at the passenger side firewall. From there, I'd personally just tap a spade connector on the bottom side of the connector (requiring you to remove the tape for a couple inches BEFORE the actual PCM -to-wiring harness connection) and tap it in there. I'd probably hide that PCM connector in the fender to make it look cleaner first too.


I hope that doesn't sound too confusing.. I kinda typed it up as it came to mind, so it may not flow as well as it should

Tach Signal.... Not sure :) Ask around.


Edit:

Found this old pic of when I started my swap... Gotta love undoing electrical tape and wiring harnesses. :)

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Same bay, maybe a year later

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so if i go with autometer gauges, i can take out the entire engine harness, the computer, and all the computer wiring?


Yes.


However, if you want to keep your stock speedometer, you do need to retain the stock computer AND transmission wiring harness. The whole engine bay fuel injection harness / 02 sensor harness can be deleted. \

The only harness left will be the MAIN harness (Main harness runs headlights, A/C, Alternator, Battery/Ground, Airbags, ABS etc)
 
Yes.


However, if you want to keep your stock speedometer, you do need to retain the stock computer AND transmission wiring harness. The whole engine bay fuel injection harness / 02 sensor harness can be deleted. \

The only harness left will be the MAIN harness (Main harness runs headlights, A/C, Alternator, Battery/Ground, Airbags, ABS etc)

Man that set up really looks good, you've got me thinking about doing something similar. What made you take the leap?
What kind of gas mileage and power are you making?
 
Yes.


However, if you want to keep your stock speedometer, you do need to retain the stock computer AND transmission wiring harness. The whole engine bay fuel injection harness / 02 sensor harness can be deleted. \

The only harness left will be the MAIN harness (Main harness runs headlights, A/C, Alternator, Battery/Ground, Airbags, ABS etc)

If you want the speedo, you dont have to keep the computer and all that. You nees the speed sensor (in the rear hosing of the trans) a 12+ and wire to your speedo gauge. I made my tach work too without any other wiring. Get a GOOD wiring diagram, and it will show you the polarity and colors of the speed sensor wires under the car, and the color of the wire that goes to the speedo itself. It really wasnt that hard. The only wiring I have in may car now is the main harness with the fuse block to keep the lights working.
 
i can 't find this anywhere ... noone seems to have them in stock

i called paxton and they said they were on nationwide back order and are looking into making them themselves

what else can i do? i want to keep my current tank

Call R&E Racing in California. I got my pickup from them.

Last time I was in there, a few weeks ago, they had a few on the shelves. Tell them Jeff Parrish sent you, you will get a better deal. Even with the deal though, it is over $100.

(661) 948-7622
 
If you want the speedo, you dont have to keep the computer and all that. You nees the speed sensor (in the rear hosing of the trans) a 12+ and wire to your speedo gauge. I made my tach work too without any other wiring. Get a GOOD wiring diagram, and it will show you the polarity and colors of the speed sensor wires under the car, and the color of the wire that goes to the speedo itself. It really wasnt that hard. The only wiring I have in may car now is the main harness with the fuse block to keep the lights working.



Good to know, thanks for adding the info!
 
Man that set up really looks good, you've got me thinking about doing something similar. What made you take the leap?
What kind of gas mileage and power are you making?



I wanted a good combo for track use that was EASY to work on at all times, made good power and looked good at the same time.. The part I forgot was creature comforts. I deleted the A/C and Heat while I was building it, and regretted it. I've since parted the car out and decided to stick to a car I can enjoy daily driving as well.

My Cobra is making more power, has Heat/A/C, full roadrace suspension and brakes, leather, rollbar and is daily drivable, but of course i've got a lot more money in it and it's not near as easy to work on.


It boils down to what you want to use the car for... what makes you happy.. :nice:
 
thinking of doing the same to my car, great info, i am keeping my a/c and heat though. i'm thinking of switching because i already own screwdrivers and i don't own a tweecer program, plus my dad has a cheater system and some other parts that i can use.
 
First time posting and I just had to bring this one back guys. I'm currently entertaining the idea of going carb on my weekend car. I've just grown tired of tuning with a Megasquirt, injector swaps and what have you.

I live down south and need the a/c and i guess the heat. I'm going with Autometer guages, so I'll be yanking out the computer and firewall harness of course. Is it really that cut and dry?

If I read correctly, the main harness houses all the other essentials. With using autometer gauges I really won't need to touch the main harness?

Thanks ahead for any help. This is just my first venture into the carb world and I'd like to be sure before I get to work.