I have a 2001 non-GT Mustang. I was wondering if there are any things I can do to make it accelerate better. Something inexpensive, preferred.
K&N, Underdrive pulleys , 3.73 gears with a trac lok for the 7.5 for traction , catback exhaust , and then a chip or tuner after you have done all those mods ...
Gears and T-locks the only thing you will notice other than a turbo/supercharger. CAI, exhaust and pullies will help some, but not as much as gears. Do you have auto or stick? Stick usually get 3.73 gears and auto use 4.10's.
He said "inexpensive". One thing that I have found that helps me accelerate better is going down a hill with a pretty steep incline....
the gears themselves are 150, but you will also probably want to get traction lock so that both wheels will spin. That is another 190 dollars, then you will have to pay to have it installed which wont be cheap by any means.
Their is no such thing as inexpensive good mods. The cheapest way to make your car really accelerate to hang with the GT's (not truly hang, but leave the line pretty damn close) off of the line would be to get tlok, 4.10gears, true duals, shift kit if you have an auto (shift kits are very good because without them your trans is always slipping pretty good. with the shift kits, instead of running through 2 gears at the same time [with autos when it shifts gears, it runs through the current gear and the next one up to make it shift as smooth as possile], it eliminates that and just shifts it into the next gear). You are also going to want to get a flash tuner (a flash tuner is a handheld tuner that you can get that come preloaded with 3 tunes, and you have the option to create tunes or download them off of the internet). The best flash tuner to get would be the xcal livewire. I have seen them as cheap as 500.00 in some places. Your also going to want Underdrive pulleys. If you dont know what they do...they replace your w/p pulley, p/s and crank pulley to make them spin faster (they are smaller in diameter) to reduce the amount of horsepower that they rob your engine of. If you have a sound system, your going to want to get the alt. pulley if you have charging problems with the UD pulleys. Also get CAI (cold air intake). A cam doesnt hurt either. Good luck and keep us updated.
cheap mods? A cold air intake has always been the cheapest mod that gives a noticeable gain. A smaller crank pulley will give some better throttle response and a little bit of low end but its only worth it if its under $100. Gears are good, if you are drag racing at a track, otherwise I wouldn`t bother and 4.10s would be too deep I`ve known people that have run them on daily drivers and regreted it. I`ve personally ran 3.73s on the street and was fairly happy, of course I put them in so it didn`t cost me much. Depending on mileage on the current engine and what you use the car for a small shot of nitrous is a good "bang for the buck" mod and has always been known as the "poor mans turbo" for about $350 you can put together a simple system, once again this is only cost effective if you can get it installed for a decent price, If you`ve never installed a nitrous system before do NOT attempt to do it unless you have someone that has done it help. I`ve watched people blow themselves up before on the track and its not a pleasant thing. Best of luck.
you should defiantly buy MAC Performance 73 mm Mass Air System @ www.v6mustangstuff.com 289 Shipped, pretty good intake big difference in sound lol. it will give you some power too, i had shop do the custom exhaust for me which has H-pipe and two megna flow exhaust exiting under the car before the axle. You cant go wrong with the megna flow sounds like V8. I had some guy with SRT4 asked me is it a Cobra. that's a proof it sounds bad. Exhaust cost me $300.
ok cold air intake does not give a noticable gain. you do not feel 3hp....thats in your head 4.10 and t-lok or a trutrac is best for you if you wana hang with GT's full bolt ons and 4.10s with a t-lok and a DYNO tune will be the only thing to get you that. sniper or a SCT tune are half as agood as a dyno tune your car would only need about an hour on the dyno so expect to pay about $200 but you'll notice a difference and your car will really come together you'll spend about $2k-$2,500 on all the bolt ons and the tune bolt ons to avoid throttle body spacer and throttle body you will not benifit much at all from a bigger TB on a bolt on car. all these mods and the tune will maybe get you low 14s depending on how you drive if you wana beat a GT bolt ons and a stage 2 power pak or bolt ons and nitrous depending on how much power you want will choose wat you need theres a guy with a 80 shot and bolt ons running 13.3 in a V6 on DRs though
why would he want a bigger MAF if he isnt looking for forced induction.... bigger is not always better... magnaflows sound like **** btw ive heard a set up with long tubes and H pipe and magna flows....sounds RICED as hell deffinitly get flows or MAC for a v6 do not get a bigger MAF for a bolt on set up i'll be turbo in a month for now only 4psi and im not even getting a MAF till i go to VMP's tunning center a v6 with long tubes, h pipe and magnaflows: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVWIPIudV3o&mode=related&search= http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poT4YBqiUTE&mode=user&search= Flowmaster 40s (my car) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwvoVly5uCA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADEaEhXegwU&mode=user&search= magnaflows....i think not
Like christtorres said, no reason to spend money on a huge MAF system / CAI unless you're going to do more than bolt-ons. Just get a used MAC/BBK/K&N CAI or get one off Ebay or something. Also, someone who doesn't know the difference might think a stock-ish V6 is a V8, but anyone who knows what they're talking about can EASILY tell the difference, especially at higher rpms. Eh... I definitely felt a difference when I installed my CAI. Not HUGE, but it was noticeable, whether it was the slight power increase, throttle response, or whatever. Oh, and Roush's dyno confirmed the power increase - 5whp at the peak, and a decent amount spread around the powerband. Oh, and that was going from a K&N filter to a BBK CAI, not just from stock. Even with basically all the bolt-ons and a tune, an auto is going to have trouble going low 14's. The fastest bolt-on auto I can think of off the top of my head was Kirk (slvr2000stang... and he now has H/C/I), and I think he was running high 14's, maybe mid-14's, before the H/C/I setup. Just curious, who are you talking about? I know Brian (punypony) ran 13.3 w/ a 80-100 shot, but I didn't think he had DR's at the time. I could definitely be wrong, though ...or GT/Mach/Cobra take-offs. Cheap, louder than stock, and minimal V6-rasp. 3.8 w/ V8 take-offs
Man, his mufflers are hanging way low on his Stang, especially the passenger side one. I bet he bangs em on speedbumps all the time. Looks like a crappy install.
im not sure he has a black stang withchrome rims i believe they're SVT i cannot remember off the top my head lives in mid florida and is on 3.8mustang.com alot GT take offs are also a good idea i know another guy with a tranny problem that had full bolt ons and just a SCT xcal2 tune and 4.10s with t-lok and ran 15flat and made like 164rwhp (auto) with out the tranny problem and a good dyno tune he'd see over 200rwhp i know another guy with just like half bolt ons and a tune that made 194-6rwhp and 214rwtq if you play with your shift points and quicker shifts on an auto low 14s are possible. im including header bolt on as long tubes not shorties it might take DRs but its possible also i consider 14.3 and lower low 14s
I think it's the angle of the video... Doesn't look like there are any clearance problems here... And, no, he doesn't bang them on speedbumps all the time Yeah, 14.3 might be possible w/ full bolt-ons, stall, DR's, suspension... I just don't recall anybody getting anywhere near that in an auto without H/C/I. In fact, I can't even think of anyone with bolt-on/tune 5-speeds running those times. It may be possible. I think one of the reasons we don't see it happen is that usually people that are THAT into making their V6 fast move on to H/C/I or F/I before they get to low 14's w/ bolt-ons, tune, etc.
nitrous and 4.10's will be the cheapest way to make it quicker. Just not the most reliable or easiest on the engine. but cheapest by far.
