ok heres my delema. I have a kicker 600.1 amp that i was pushin a kicker l7 with... well i blew that on accident cuz my friend turned the gain all the way up... i know i know dumb but i didnt do it... well i just got a replacement new l7 (the new chrome model ) and now my amp's protection light is on and it wont send any juice to the sub. when i looked i saw the ground was pulled out and figured if i put it back in it would fix its self. so i turned everything off did that and its protection is still on... can anyone tell me how to get it to run right? it was running like a champ before but im afraid that when the sub was out cuz i blew it the wires touched but even in that case wouldnt it have just blew a fuse? any help would be greatley appreciated -jim btw the site messed up cuz i only paid 180 for the other kicler l7 (the second model) and on their site the new l7 goes for 360! oh thank you for sending me that one (i owe my bud a thanks for blowing my sub )
What I would do is get yourself an ohm meter and check the following Check the Ohm's on the sub. Its probably DVC, so its either 1, 2, 4, 8ohm As long as their is continuity on the speaker, it should be working ok. Take your remote wire out of the amp and check the voltage to ground. If theres voltage thats fine. Check your voltage from the batt - ground - (12-12.8v) (14+ when car runs) Undo your ground and pull your RCA's out Pull the fuse out from your batt - amp and then hook it all back up. Power, remote, RCA's, speaker wires and lastly your ground. then plug the fuse back in and turn your deck on. It should be working ok. Make sure your ground is paint free and clean and sturdy.
thanks ill def try this but if it makes a diff i think all this started after the ground wire came disconected and i reconected it... all seams well though
wow this guy seams like hes having the same prob http://renegadesrun.hyperboards.com...ay&cat=components&board=amp&thread=1076206701 only i have a better amp PLEASE HELP ASAP... i wonder if there is someway to reset the amp because it thinks its not grounded... and if it helps when i wiggle the ground wire around it kinda blinks onto the green light (means shes running good) but not long enough to work... remember the amp worked like a charm before... this is just out of no where
Check for an internal fuse on the amp itself. Chances are the amp is blown though. You cannot "reset" and amplifier.
wow i really really hope your wrong about the amp being blown... if it matters it goes from red to green (the lights) switching pereodicly BTW I went to the local radio shop and asked them about the possible problem. They had no idea but they just sent a kicker amp out and it was recieved that day and the sales reciept said that there was some bad transistors and it stayed in protect mode... mine is more of a stays in protect mode for 3 sec. then blinks to the ok power light i guess (green).... if this info helps good but i dont see how i could have blown transistors out of nowhere
Here's the dilema...when you blow the hell out of a sub...the voicecoil can get heated enough to actually "melt down"...this can cause the subwoofer to drop to extremely low resistance...like "0". This is in turn can make an amp go into safety mode....or if that doesn't catch it in time--it can cause some damage inside... another thing to consider--does your amp also go into safety mode if your new sub is unhooked? If not--there is a possibility of a faulty new sub. Try hooking up another sub to it and see what happens..... --oh yeah--and how was your light on---if your ground was unhooked...or was it just loose?
I actualy noticed it wasnt powered up at all and hooked the groudn back up... my mistake, and the amp is in protect mode with or without the sub hooked up
well--assuming that all power is hooked up correctly--lets see...what if u unplug the rca's....does it still stay in protection mode...try it with the sub hooked and unhooked....if u can't get that damn protection light to go off---it may just be your worst fears man.... sorry---don't know what else to try....except maybe the internal fuses like someone else mentioned.... good luck....
**** me... im gonna take it to the car audio shop today so they can rape me with prob around a hundred bux to fix my friends mistake... well a good life lesson came out of this DONT LET YOUR FRIENDS TRY TO "TUNE" YOUR SYSTEM .... not even if they claim they know what they are doing
yeah i brought it in today and they are gonna send it to kicker (its prob gonna take 4-5 weeks they said ) and its 70 bux plus parts from kicker... also when i was there we were talking about the amp and they said that they think the 600.1 is underpowering the kicker l7... i find this hard to believe because that thing SLAMS and they reccomended i bought another 600.1 to put on it so i dont damage the sub or amp so do u guys think the 600.1 is underpowering it? and do u think 2 600.1's will be over powering it like i kinda do the kicker L7 runs at 1500 peak and 700 rms (350 per voice coil)
IF you like the way it sounds, it's fine. You do not need another amp. I take it the guy from Kicker I talked to never emailed you huh? Good luck with whatever happens!!!
I'm going to have to agree with the fried transistors. My POS legacy amp did the exact same thing after I blew a sub with it...it would go in and out of protection. Pulled it apart, and found 5 burnt transistors. After I replaced em, it's working fine once again (well, as good as a Legacy amp can work). Take it apart and see what you find!
i did take it apart to see if i found anything that was obviousley burnt out and didnt see much, but even if i did it would prob be better to have kicker fix that since it handels so much power... and kwik nope the guy didnt e-mail me but thanks for trying
Anything can blow anything. I've taken drivers rated at 75 watts and run 300 through them with no problems. I've also taked 1K drivers and thrown a couple hundred through them and "poof." Glad to hear you're getting the problem resolved!
yeah its actualy a bitter sweet thing i got a 2004 L7 for free from the company (that thing looks NASTY) but i blew my 600.1 and its prob gonna run me about 85 to fix and a mont without any bump in the trunk on that note i cant find this info anywhere... is the new L7 and better than the old one or is it just looks, and if its better in what ways...the ratings are pretty much the same but the come in aluminum instead of "titanium coated"... and it runs for 400 in the crutchfield mag.
