How to fix a whining power steering pump My power steering pump used to drive me nuts on my 92', (of course I find this after I sold it) Now I have the same problem on my pickup, which will be fixed as soon as I get time. I found this write up on the Full Size Bronco website so I thought that I would share it here. Hopefuuly its not old news and I don't **** anyone off for stealing their work. just trying to help. All info applies to serpentine belt EFI 302's and 351's. the brackets, pump and pulley are the same for both engines -1st, what to get your pump from look for ford vans. 1/2ton, 3/4 or 1 tons, its all the same. theres is one funky year to watch out for though! The 87 vans and broncos use a much different AC compresser mount, that I cannot see easily adapated to fit a 88 or newer truck..... 88 or later is the optimum year to look for, I have seen I think an 86 serpentine belt that I have pulled one from that worked the same. -Second, the tools you need for the pump removal 13MM 3/8's drive socket. also a 13MM wench can be usefull. Used for pulling AC compresser bolts from bracket on most of the vans 9/16's socket. 6 point preffered, 3/8's drive will do it, but half inch drive is better. a short socket works best due to lack of room with radiator/fan shroud not removed. Used to remove the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the block/head 9/16's wrench. used to remove the nut from the stud that holds the bracket to the block on 302 engines. the 9/16's has also been used on the AC bracket on a few years Hacksaw/diagonal cutters. used to cut AC hoses if compresser will not bend out of the way. also used for cutting low pressure hose on the PS pump. (you use your old hose on the swap) 5/8's line wrench. Used to remove the HP hose from the steering box. on this note, I have run into a few issues here on removal. Some don't come loose period, and some of the fittings don't swivel on the line, and it twists off. This is where you have a hydraulic shop mate your bronco lower HP hose to the upper part of your saginaw HP hose. -------some vans the flare fitting is 11/16's. this is the wrong thread to go into a bronco box! Try to avoid it if posible! I learned this almost the hard way on my bronco. hammer- great for shock treatment of stuck bolts pipe- great for extra leverage, also good for holding up the hood. Vise grips- great for clamping on siezed HP hose fittings and then hitting the end of vice grip with the hammer to break it loose. Also removes any other bolts/ washer or thing in the way to the pump Flat blade screwdriver. Used to remove the airbox from the van and taking the hoses off the Throttle body so you can get to the pump. 10 mm socket. Used to remove airbox tray. The tray can be worked aorund, BUT I always end up cutting/scrapping myself on it if I dont remove it. So again, in recall watch out for 1987 van pumps, as the AC bracket is WAY different, and watch out for the HP line on some vans(dont know the year) on the steering box that is a 11/16s fitting Info on the pumps in general -in general all the saginaw pumps are the same -it does use a different pulley than your old pump, so be aware of that you cannot just switch the two -some newer saginaws are metric bolts, so be aware if you try bolting them using your old hardware into your saginaw bracket(this is when you where to replace a bad van saginaw pump with a junkyard pump of another brand) newer chevys also use a funky shapped resivoir and are metric -when replacing just a bad pump try to buy it with the resivoir if you can. brand new with resivoir is about $105. without the resiboir it is $45 or so, but believe me, it is not worth it! i tried two different rebuilt pumps, and i could not make either fit into the resivoir on the chevy i replaced the saginaw on this week. ford install issues. Yes, you need to run a longer serpentine belt! you "Can" make it fit qith a stock belt, but this is a tight fit and applying lots of extra side load ot your other accesories bearings(ALT, Water pump, Saginaw pump) you need to drill out your AC compresser holes approx an 1/8th bigger i think. dont quote me on that, but it is only slightly bigger. just measure the new bolts to find out what size you nee to drill out your 4 ac holes. The AC holes need to be rilled ince the saginaw pump AC hold down bolts are bigger diameter. the AC compresser drills out real easy though due to it being alluminum. Some pumps have sensors on the HP hose. the 302 trucks, and the 302 vans have a sensor on the hose. it is a normally closed switch and all it does is bump the idle up when it senses heavy reistance to help keep the truck from dieing at idle. techinically you could run a 302 with apump from a 5.8(does not have senoser) and it would work fine, but may have a tendecny to die at idle with super hard strain on the pump. 3 solutions to that, have a hydro shop put the sensor off your old bronco hose onto you saginaw line, or buy a new hose for a 302 van, or just get your pump, brakcet, and hose form a van with a 302 for the 5.8's you can run a saginaw pump from a 302 or a 5.8 with no issues what so ever. the 5.8 does not use the sensor. so if you get a pump from a 302 and it has a sensor in the hose, just leave it unplugged and let it lay there out of the way the install isntructions -Remove your airbox hoses(makes it easier) -remove the serpetine belt -remove your low pressure line from the steering box, and let the old fluid drain out. -while it is draining, disconnect the AC electrical connection that is for the magnetic clutch -unbolt he 4 ac bolts -"Flop" the AC compresser out of the way keeping the hoses connected -unscrew the HP(high pressure) line at the steering box and let it drain out -remove the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the block. 302's i think use a 4th stud -pull out the whole bracket and pump -bolt the saginaw pump/bracket to the block -connect your HP and LP hoses to the connect spot on the block. yuou use the van HP hose and fitting and put it into th ebronco steering box. for ht elow pressure how, just slide the rubber hose off the old ford pump, and clamp it down on the return line coing out of the saginaw pump. then put the hose back into the steering box. techinallyt you didnt have to remove the LP hose from the steering box, but i find it easier -now its time to dr4ill out the AC compresser -after its drilled, bolt it to the bracket -plug in the AC electrical connection -install the new aprox 1-1/5" longer serpentine belt(on the pre 93's, zilla has the belt number for the later ones, i will find it) -fill your PS pump with fluid -make shure everything is put on the truck and tightened(i leave the Airbox hoses off at this time) start it up for about 10 seconds, then shut the truck off. go check/ refill the PS pump, also check to make shure there was no sign of major leakage - start it again, and cycle the steering. i do this with the truck weight on it, but mine is hydro assist, and has lots of steering power. i recomend you have it on jackstands, or the draglink disconected, or roll the truck forewards oem while doing it. - expect the pump to whine an howl some at you when you do this. if it gets real loud then your low on fluid. - after cycling the steering, check/refill the pump with fluid. this is normal it goes down till all the air is bleed from th system. -now let it run and check for any small leaks from the pump, or any of the fittings/hose connections. -put it all toghether, give it a drive or two around the block, and double check the steering fluid level again. done, your steering swap is done. expect about an hour to an hour and half to do the swap on your bronco if you are pretty mechnically inclined. adjust down or up of there based on your ability. Nothing is hard about this, just takes a little time, and geting PS fluid all on your arms.
It took all that work just to replace the P/S pump? I didn't realize it was that hard, even after doing several times Has anyone tried running ATF in the P/S system? This is probably in another thread already, huh? I only heard this a short time ago and have not had the opportunity to try it yet.
