I have a polk momo MM12 12" sub(the older version) that I will be installing soon. My question is what kind of amp do I need to use? Ive been told not to underpower it or it will blow. Should I get a channeled amp or a mono amp?
What is the VC config? That is what depends on which amp to use. Once we know that we can help you out. Edit: I just looked it up and it looks like a single 4 ohm VC. It is rated at 500 watts rms. http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2212 This is a great budget amp. If you bridge it, you will have 480 watts rms at 4 ohms.
I worked at an audio store for abit and I think I know what one you're talking about. I would go with a Pioneer 500W channeled amp or a Kicker 650W channeled amp. Either way, say you go with the kicker for example I would also get a power amp to give your regular speakers a little extra kick (that's if you don't already have one)
Any good anp in the 200-500 watts range will be fine. You will probally be happy with a true 300RMS amp. You wont notice much a difference from a 300 to a 500. Don't worry about underpowering. Worry about clipping.
http://images.cardomain.net/sites/sounddomain/shop/woofer_wizard/1_4ohm_dvc.gif Get a decent mono amp, with 350 to 400 watts rms and you should be golden.
So your saying get a smaller amp(watts) for the speakers? I know about cars but I dont know too much about audio at all.
if your doing a sub, go mono, if you doing speakers do 2 or 4 channel, bridging isnt good cause most amps cant handle anything under 4 ohms, get a mono amp and wire it so your down to 2 ohms and you will get the most power out that way
No, not exactly. there are two different types of amps that I know of, power amps and sub amps. Sub amps... well thats kind of self explanatory, power amps are for the regular speakers (door speakers, 6x9s', 5x8s', tweeters, etc. etc.) I'm saying get a sub amp like one I said or one anyone else said to get and on top of that get a power amp for the other "regular" speakers. The set up I have in my car is - 1 - Pioneer 6600 flip-screen head unit 4 - Eclipse point source 6x9s' 2 - Eclipse point source tweeters 3 - Kicker solo baric 8" subs (L7) 1 - Kicker 2 channel 350w power amp 1 - Kicker 3 channel 1000w sub amp
Which one of these mono amps would work best with my sub? There's 3 models on this site. A 1500, 1000, and 500 model. Click on the link at look under the amplifier section. http://search.netscape.com/ns/boomf...t=1&remove_url=http://www.precisionpower.com/
Clipping is when the sine wave goes from a perfect arch up and down to it being clipped off at the upper and lower portion of the wave. It is what distortion causes and will fry a speaker faster then you can say BOOM. Do not let your "boy" crank you radio to max then sex the amps gain to max. this will deffently clip your speaker. To properly set the gains you need an o-scope. this allows you to see the wave. You start with it on the RCAs and turn up the radio to as loud as you will listen to it or untill it starts clipping then back it off some. Then mark this on the radio and do not pass this point ever. Then with the radio set at that volume move the o-scope to the output of the amp. then start turning the gain up on the amp untill it starts clipping and back it off some. You now have your gains properly set. Now most people do not do this. Just do not go crazy with the amp gain and you should be ok. And since your sub is a SVC 4OHM load. you will want to get a 300-450watt 2 channel amp and bridge it. This will get the most power out of the amp. You do not want a mono amp as you usually have to have a 2 or 1 ohm load to get the power out of it. When you bridge a 2 channel with a 4 ohm speaker the amp then sees a 2 ohm bridged load. So it will put out the maxium power.
If you want something cheap that is a really good amp I would go with the Lanzar OPTI2X300D. You can find it here for $160. http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=lanopti2x300d&store=&catid=306 Will power that sub just fine. Or if you have money burning a hole in your pocket and want something you can use in the furture to upgrade. the Nakamichi PA-8001 will fit the bell also. http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=nakpa8001&store=&catid=306 MECP First Class 5 years and running. 6 Years in Mobile electronics. Never worked for BB Or CC!
I hate to be an ass. But after reading this thread again there is alot of bad advice and info here. Most of what is being said here is wrong. Not trying to **** anyone off but I would like to see where and how you figure some of the stuff you claim comes from and to prove it. It is alright not to know about something. Or maybe just have a slight clue. But please do not give out info when you do not know what you are talking about. I have spent years try to master this feild. And I will admit there is still stuff I do not understand when it comes to the super advanced stuff. The math can get crazy when trying to set up a winning iasca pro SQ car. To get the sound stage just right to get the RTA to read as flat and as smooth as you can. It is more then just hooking up some RCAs and some power wire. Most of you are probally young and think they learned it all from their "boy" in the driveway. Again my intention is not to put you down. Just asking please do not spread your ignorance. Thanks Have a nice day.
OK, 2 cents' worth from a new member. MerkurNut is exactly right, and thanks for the suggestion about the o-scope (of course I haven't seen one since 1977 when we hooked up a McIntosh speaker and watched the woofer cone respond down to 1/2 Hz! - one of my hallmates "borrowed" it from the physics lab). Anyway, the McIntosh amps I'm installing have what's called PowerGuard, which compares input and output signals and monitors itself for distortion; once a minimal level is reached, the amps cut their output safely below clipping. Then there's the rated power issue: don't get sucked into anything rated "peak power," you'd be lucky to get 25% of "continuous rms" output without clipping, which occurs when overdriving an underpowered amp and fries speakers. And an amp's an amp; the crossover (which separates a full frequency range into defined signals and routes them to speakers matched for those frequencies) determines the appropriate use for the amp. Crossovers are sometimes built into the amps, sometimes into the speaker boxes, or sometimes are separate components between the amp and component speaker drivers. If you're looking for true power and true music reproduction, do some homework before you buy. Don't get caught up in empty numbers and looks. Just joined forum today, looks very promising!
