Yay! I replaced the broken section of my brake line today! Booooo! Went to bleed the brakes and when I put a little bit of force on the bleeding nipple, the damn thing broke off flush with the back of the drum! Am I screwed here or what? My lines are full of air, I have an open hole into the line now, one I can't close and all I have to work with now is front brakes and the parking brake. I'm desperate here guys!
Ha I did the same thing when I replaced my line! You can replace the brake cylinder inside the drum... i think they sell a kit that has all the parts to do a drum brake job for both sides (shoes, springs, retainers, cylinder, ect) or at least i know for sure they do for the classic stangs... doesnt hurt to do it all at once while you got it apart, so id just do a rear brake job on it and call it a day... might even help with what you said about your parking brake acting up when the line broke to begin with. dont know if these are something that should be replaced in pairs or not, maybe someone else knows...
if the line is stuck open you wont even have that, cause all your fluid is gonna leak out that open bleeder valve.
He should still have the front brakes till all the fluid leaks out. Same reservoir but different chambers. You will eventually run out of fluid though so watch out if you drive it. Just buy a new wheel cylinder and change it out on the rear. Easiset thing IMO. They are cheap. Also it may ease the installation of the cylinder if you buy the brake hardware kit. (don't have to deal with all the rusty parts inside the drum) Obviously check your brake shoes while everything is open and change them if you have to. You are going to want to bleed both sides of the rear since one line feeds both sides up till the axle so both sides may have some air. Since one side busted I am sure the other side will be just as a PITA. good luck
So I'm gonna have to replace the entire brake setup on that wheel? To be honest, I've never done anything like this before and need to get it done soon and cheap. What do I absolutely need to go buy and is there somewhere that has the info on how to do it? From what I saw, I'd have to pull the axle to get at the inside workings
No you don't have to pull the axle. To change the back break's just buy, A new cylinder,(I would buy two ,one for each side) A set of brake shoe's, And a can of brake part's cleaner. Then if you have the money take the drums and have them turned.If you don't understand how all this comes apart or goes together, then buy a haynes or chilton manual. They help alot. Just remember to bleed the brakes,start with the wheel farthest from the reservor. Be carfull and good luck.
I just had the same thing happen to me. Had to replace everything in the rear brakes. I suggest getting a Heynes manual. I've never done a brake job before and I did it with just the book. Good luck
Always thought it was the one closest?? Buy a haynes manual, two wheel cylinders, brake shoes, and the brake hardware kit. The haynes has pictures of each step. What you don't need return. May help to take a picture after each dissambly step incase the manual is not enough (should be) The drum may be a pain to remove. A BFH comes in handy and a pry bar and try not to take deep breaths of the dust in there. (won't kill you but isn't the best stuff) Also make sure the front wheels are cocked because you will need the emergency brake off.
Thanks again for all the help guys. Today I got the brakes disassembled, and managed to wrangle the brake cylinder out of the backing plate. Too bad that the brake line fitting had welded itself to the brake line and I wound up breaking 1" off the brake line from the hub Now I gotta go back and rent another flaring tool Oh, and to recap, my journey so far has been: Brake line broke - Fixed Brake line - Bleeding nipple broke - Replace wheel cylinder - Brake line broke - replace brake line I wonder what else will go wrong for me. 20 bux sais that the fittings on the T-Adapter on the axle will bust as well
Hate to be a pessimist but from the sounds of it. Yeah the T-adapter won't break (brass), but you may end up stripping the fitting going into it. Try and use the hot wrench method to remove the fittings. Heat the suck up and then remove it. Flaring wrenchs will aid in the removal, but some fittings end up stripping anyway. Some people may warn against heating **** up, but if you are careful where you apply the heat (away from the rubber brake line feeding it) then you should be all good. I have had to resort to vise-grips and the hot wrench to removal numerous fittings. Just keep a bucket of water or extinguisher handy. Working on rusty cars is always a pain. Just need to know a couple of tricks. Just think. next time you will be prepared to change all of this on your first try under the car. And all the money you are saving on labor over a mechanic.
Well thats how I keep consoling myself I figure I've saved over $2500 in labour doing everything on my car myself. And I kind of a have a theory that my car knows it won't be alive for too much longer and is basically giving me as many problems as it can so that when I eventually get a new mustang, I'll have all the knowledge under my belt to really take good care of it Such a sentimental beast it is>
