buyer help!

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6 Talk' started by 3xzsucof, Jun 12, 2007.

  1. 3xzsucof New Member

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    Ok, I dont really know where to post this up, but here goes.

    Ive currently got a ford focus thats pissed me off to no end. Im tired of puny power even with all Ive got in it. This time Im getting what I want lol anyway...

    I plan on buying a mustang soon (end of summer hopefully) and I wanna do research on it first. Heres what I want to get, 4.6l, 5 spd 99-04.

    what should I know about this engine? were there any changes in the engine during certain years that I should know about? b/c someday I do wanna mod it:D

    Honestly any info on the 99-04 mustang that would be useful, id appreciate.

    Thanks!
  2. MakotoS13 Member

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    all i can tell you is dont buy from performance mustangs in houston texas. dont even go look at the green one.

    they suck.

    thats all i know.

    oh and if you get a 99-00 check for the "plastic crossover tube"
  3. bryan0 New Member

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    Granted you're buying a GT, not a Cobra, the 99's and 00's are virtually identical, and same with the 01-04's. The 01-04's have black (better looking) headlights, with more aggressive hood and side scoops. The most talked about difference is that midway through 01 they changed the waterpump, so if you ever get underdrive pulleys, you'll need to make sure you get the right ones.
    Other than that, the 99-04's are all pretty much the same. Oh yea, the 99's have a 35th anniversary pony on the fender and the 04's have a 40th, while the 00-03's have a GT logo.

    Definitely test drive a stang or 2 before buying, just to make sure it's what you expect. If you have any more specific questions, I'm sure someone will help you.
  4. 65fastback2+2 New Member

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    99/01 Cobra or 03/04 Mach

    /end
  5. 3xzsucof New Member

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    I wish I could afford a cobra... And I knew about the exterior differences over the years, I knew a kid who had an 03. I just wasnt sure about any other serious changes over the years. I didnt really know what I was looking for when I got my focus, except I was just looking for a reliable car. But after i started doing things to it, I noticed that I should look for what I want in my next car.
  6. Rougestang Member

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    don't do what I did:

    I bought my 2000 gt from a used car lot, then about a month later when the warrenty runs out, throw a connecting rod racing a conv. mustang gt.

    on another note, If you get one 5spd is the way to go, they're just more fun to drive. There are differences in the motor from 2001+ models, like a romeo block instead of a windsor block on 99-00' year. like MakotoS13 said, check for the plastic crossover tube ,thats the air intake manifold. In 2001+ they were aluminum(maybe better if you spray) but they all are good engines. Just test drive it and I can't stress enough, TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC BEFORE YOU BUY IT! If the dealer has a problem with it, pass on the car. A compression test woulda saved me 4,000 for a new engine. just my .02
  7. 3xzsucof New Member

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    good info, since I plan on making it my first real performance car, I do plan on taking it to a mechanic.
  8. Shiroelex There's nothing worse than aut

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    Mid 01-on had the t3650 5 speed, while earlier models had the T-45. I had an early 01, that had the T-45, and had never had a single problem with it, besides the squeaky throwout bearing. The t3650s are problematic.
  9. MakotoS13 Member

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    a compression test just tests compression, i dont see how that would let you know a rod bearing (or the rod itself) was going to fail. that just seems like bad luck to me man :(
  10. Bluffing024 Active Member

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    If you get a 99 or 00 you will want to change the intake manifold if it hasn't been done yet. It isn't if the plastic crossover will leak....it's when.
  11. 03gtdrkpny New Member

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    I've got an 03 - 5 speed, and a 04 vert auto. I swear the vert being heavier and an auto, the auto pulls harder in 2nd gear than 2-3 in the 5 speed. I prefer the auto for highway driving anyways. Both are unmodded with stock gears and such.
  12. 3xzsucof New Member

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    Im done with ATX. especially b/c i want to crank out some power
  13. Rougestang Member

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    Actually what is was, a piston was slaping around in the cylinder, and I from what the mechanic was saying, it was too much(be it vibration, or whatever) it cracked. The rod didn't go through the block, which leads me to believe him.
    I've still got the stock plastic manifold on my car, and yet to have a problem with it, however, I still plan on switching it to handle more.
  14. MakotoS13 Member

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    i guess that makes sense but wouldn't a knock sensor or something detect piston slap? thats scary dude. sounds like a factory defect.
  15. Rougestang Member

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    Your probably 100% correct on it, motor had 42,000 miles when I bought it and blew it at 45,000 in change. Too late to go to Ford and complain seeing it was a little over a year ago it happened. Plus doubt they woulda done anything, not only cause it was 6 years old, but also because it's FORD.:flag:
  16. MakotoS13 Member

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    :( it should be IMPOSSIBLE to break a NA engine in the first 100K with regular maintenance i dont care how hard you run it. well, assuming it doesn't spend 100% of its life at redline, anyhow.
  17. Rougestang Member

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    It's a costly mistake that I'll never make again...:bang: (until I feel like building a new engine)
  18. Dusstbuster I love meat more than anything! I just have a spec

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    I'd still consider a Cobra, not necessarily a terminator. Once you get the mod bug you'll realize the 2v's lack of response to anything that doesn't start with nitro/turbo/super gets really annoying. The 4v's on the other hand love being modded, and earlier cobras are fairly affordable too.
  19. T-Sho New Member

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    Best line of the day!!!:hail2:

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