Hello, I am having tranny issues and am considering swapping out to a 4 speed. I have located a donor II (rusted to death) and was wanting to know how much of a project this will be and what I will need to grab from the donor -- and small parts that I could overlook? Any concerns with the donor being a hatchback and mine being a Ghia? All input welcome. Thanks, Mike
I swapped from a 4-speed (well, it had had a 4-speed, but when I got it it had no engine or tranny) to a C4, with no major mods. FWIW, my car still has the clutch pedal 'cuz I can't get the twelve-letter-word out. Anyone have any ideas how to get the clutch pedal out, I'll have a clutch pedal for sale. . ..
swap Mike, pretty much just get everything. Clutch and brake pedal, cable & adjuster, flywheel,block plate and keep the pressure plate and clutch disc for cores. Its not a bad swap, the holes for the clutch cable are allready marked for your car just drill them. Oh yeah get the speedo cable too. Whatever you get and do not use will be easy to sell.Jon
depends on what you are really wanting to do but if you are having C-4 trouble just pull it and rebuild it or have it rebuild. the cost would only be around $300 to have done once pulled. the c-4 is one of the cheapest and easist to rebuild and the kit itself is less that $100. what exactly is wrong with it and how many miles are on it?? Budda
the tranny (and car) has about 83k, and it misses shifts even with the vacuum line hooked up unless its floored, leaks, and the seals are shot -- it takes a few minutes to warm up enough to even roll -- the last II I had had a c-4 and a windsor and one of the reasons I got rid of it was because of the auto -- there just is nothing like dropping a gear and sliding a corner (not like I ever have)
It's an easy swap, and the one of the best changes I ever made to mine. If it's a 302 car, you'll want to get the trans crossmember, as the OE mount has an isolater that hangs down through it in a stamped hole not present on the auto crossmember. Also, the clutch pedals differ according to year and engine size, as the cable attaches differently inside the car. Driveshaft will also be different, and if you like reverse lamps, you'll want to grab the harness that goes through the floor and unplugs behind the radio area(it also is factory-jumpered to eliminate the neutral safety switch). Console insert also differs, if the car has the full console. You can buy new brake/clutch pedal pads in the "Help!" line of parts at most chain auto parts stores (although our local O'Reilly only stocks 1).
I was thinking of swapping my 4 speed for a built c4 and stall. How do you guys keep your 4 speeds together?
By being mindful of it's reputation. In my case, the car isn't driven that way any more. The tranny was never designed for any real torque, so if you're going to hotrod the II, something better is going to be needed.
my car started life as an auto, went the 4 spd route, and now the t5 the 4 spd is the weakest link in the drivetrain of a v8.. needlessly you need clutch pedal and brake pedal (cannot use auto brake pedal to wide) 1974 v6 pedals do not work, different cable eye loop. you need all the bolts and plastic shims with the pedals. the auto brake pedal bracket is the same as the standard. tranny, blockplate, flywheel, driveshaft(different length), crossmember+mount do not reuse the cable its easier and cheaper to purchase a new one, it also comes with a new adjuster built onto the cable. you need to punch a hole for the cable through the firewall (you can see where the factory cable goes through on your donor car.)
The T-5 is the easiest...of course with a MII, "easy" is a relative term. There are two ways to do it...use the MII bellhousing and 302 flywheel, or use a Fox Mustang bellhousing and a rebalanced 5.0L flywheel. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Check here for instructions using the MII bellhousing and 302 flywheel: http://home1.gte.net/res03net/faqs/t5/t5swap.htm You can also go with a 4-speed Toploader like Mark did, but I understand there is some trans tunnel modification needed. As much as I like the idea of a manual trans in a sporty car, if money, time, or effort are important to you, then pulling the C4 and carrying it to a good shop for a rebuild will be cheaper. Even the T-5 is not known for its great torque handling capacity. If you want to put real power through a trans, there are plenty of parts on the market to build a stout C4. Check out some of the parts that PA has available for the C4: http://www.performanceautomatic.com/
