I am looking into buying a ford racing hydrolic camshaft Rocker ratio: 1.60, Intake events (0.50') open 5 degrees BTC, closed 39 degrees ABC, Exhaust events (0.50') open 49 degrees BBC, closed 5 degrees BTC, duration intake 286 or 224 degrees, exhaust 286 or 224 degrees, Lift lobe .339 I or .339 E, valve .542 or .542 E. Lobe center intake 107 degrees, exhaust 117 degrees. will this just slide right in and give me more power? Also will the work with the cobra 1.7 roller rockers? because I have an older barely used set on 1.6 roller rockers that could go in if they do not work, Would they even work with stock rocker arms? I have holly pushrods but they are the same length as stock. (99% sure) I want to get all internal things down before I put it all together. Does anyone knoe the specs of the OEM camshaft? And will I need anything else to install this camshaft?
Seems like the lift and duration are a little hot for a stock headed car. I think 220 at .060 is probably more appropriate and the lift would probably be best under .520. I'm assuming the heads are stock that is. You will want new springs, something under 300lb rate would be ok. You don't want to go much more with that setup. he stock rockers might work, but I wouldn't feel comfortable with them. All in all, you won't get tons of performance by just upgrading the cam without doing something with the heads.
what heads are you running? that cam would be a total waste with a E7 head or un-ported gt40 head. For the E7 heads the stock cam with some 1.7rr is about as much lift as they can handle (around 480). With un-ported gt40 heads you want to look for a cam with around .500 lift. Both heads will like a split patt. cam that gives a little more lift and dur. to the exh. side.
I just wanted to say when working in the motor. A few thousands of an inch can make a huge difference :Word: About those pr's with an unknown length You wanna move from the unknown to the known before using them If you are gonna go for more power than simple bolt ons I would agree with John about if you pick a cam correctly ......... you could get a gain with cam only .... but not much. however ..... Be sure you make your cam choice based upon future plans or You'll end up having to upgrade the cam for the better parts I'd tell you this You wanna do heads and cam at the same time as it is just too much work to do both separately and you will have to buy gaskets, oil oil filter, coolant, etc twice. If you can do the intake along with the heads and cam ........ that makes it all the more better ...... cause you don't have tear into the motor any more Grady
Ok chacked the pushrods and they are the same as stock length. Any cam recomendations that will work with my setup then? I have never really looked into the cam thing so it is all a bit new. I would like something that would put out alot of torque between 1000rpm and 6000rpm, and not have my car dropping dead after 5000rpm.
Good low & mid range can be found with the better OEM stuff such as Cobra & GT40 parts If you want all that A N D power all the way to 6k before drop off ..... that is gonna be harder with the OEM stuff Just start looking at all the dyno charts you can find and it will all become crystal clear to you fairly quickly Be sure to notice if the pull was done with a Dyno Jet or Mustang Dyno and if Dyno Jet was used ... was it caled with SAE or Standard values. These differences can make two similar combos look very different. Grady
The most tq. you will get with the oem stuff will be with the stock gt lower ported, and playing with the cam's degree on install...most do a 2-4* setup vs. straight up cam setup along with 1.7rr to get alittle more powa. Other than porting your heads or getting better heads (assuming you have gt e7 heads) you really cannot do much as far as "putting a cam in and making power to 6k with low end". Its going to take some better all around packages to do that.
