There aren't any dynos near me but figured someone has some software to get me in the ballpark. Its a fresh rebuild of a 70 351W w/FMX (yeah i know the trans will go eventually). Carb is a rebuilt Edelbrock 600cfm w/manual choke, intake is a dual plane aluminum (nothing done to the ports), heads are stock windsor heads with no porting done, and the block is a standard bore with 0.010 mains and rod bearings. I am not sure if some of this is overkill but throwing it on the table anyways. The valvetrain is all new and made by compcams. It includes an XE262H cam, standard hydraulic lifters, standard length pushrods, upgraded valve springs but still single spring w/dampener, retainers w/10° keepers, and a "true" dual roller timing chain. Exhaust is true duals with manifolds and rear is an open 3.00 9". Water pump is Flow Cooler aluminum high vol unit with 27.5" aluminum radiator. Nothing too fancy, just a standard rebuild with a bigger cam and upgraded cooling system. Flywheel and at the wheels HP/Torque if you don't mind. Thanks!! Pics are here if you care to look http://www.mustangmods.com/data/14642/picture_084.jpg http://www.mustangmods.com/data/14642/picture_078a.jpg http://www.mustangmods.com/data/14642/pics_006.jpg http://www.mustangmods.com/data/14642/dcp_1432a.jpg
First...your exhaust manifolds are going to negatively effect any performance increases you would have seen with a good aluminum intake...it's going to kill good exhaust pulses that are necessary to draw in air. Edelbrock carbs are also notoriously difficult to custom tune...a Holley is a better choice for that. Other than that, quality 1 5/8" headers and a good 2.5" exhaust would allow your engine to make a solid 280-300 horses properly tuned. For proper tuning, going for the "that feels about right" method will more than likely have you down a good 15-25 horses. Spend the extra money for a professional chassis dyno tune...you'll be much happier with the way it drives as well as the amount of power it makes. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the input. Yeah i know i need to invest in headers but then i would have to rework my exhaust and the exhaust is fairly new. My future plans are to get a set of AFRs and headers with an X-pipe built in the 2.5" exhaust that will go in. The factory rating for a 4V motor is 250HP (although mine was 2V stock and i know the diff in compression ratios between the two motors), is the 280 you are estimating at the flywheel or rearwheels? I kinda live in the middle of nowhere and the nearest dyno is around 5 hours away at least. Probably have to trailer the car to get it dyno tuned, cause at 12mpg in the stang i will be burning about 40 gallons of fuel :damnit:
The 280 is flywheel, however, with your current set up, figure down around 230-250 at the flywheel with some interesting running characteristics (assuming it is tuned in). Just headers and exhaust is worth a lot on that engine combination.
