Haven't changed spark plugs on anything 96+, just curious, the little covers that seem to be covering up the wires as they go into the heads, do those need to be torqued to anything specific when putting them back on? I assume that I'll have to take out the ducting to the air filter in order to make room for the other side. Thanks
Yeah, taking off the intake tube is the most difficult part of changing the plugs...They do need to be torqued down to about 7-14lb-ft and make sure they are gapped at .052-.054" for an N/A application...The biggest thing is to not crossthread them since the aluminum heads don't like that much... Also with the wires, make sure you get them going to the correct cylinders...No the plug covers on the top of the valve cover dont' need to be torqued...they are there just to cover the plugs, just tighten them until they stop
It doesn't say anything in my haynes repair manual other than that it has to be removed to access the plugs. Make sure your engine is cold. Use thin coat of anti-sieze on threads of spark plug. use thin layer silicone dielectric compound(a white grease on in side of boots). 7-14 ft.-lbs. torque on plugs themselves.
Yeah, it's not too bad of a job. The covers themselves are pretty self-explanatory to take off. I've never paid that much attention to how tight I put them back on. Just take your time, gap the plugs correctly, do one plug at a time, put anti-seize ont the plugs, and dielectric on the connections.
