Cylinder bore prep???

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo)' started by TurboFlush, Aug 20, 2004.

  1. TurboFlush Founding Member

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    ummm my mind is gone for some reason.

    when preparing aengine cylinder for new piston rings and you want to get the cross hatch.
    which do you use?
    A: CYLINDER GLAZE BREAKER
    or
    B: CYLINDER HONE

    ??

    there is no ridge in the cylinders but I do need to bring back the cross hatches.

    regards,
    TF
  2. TurboFlush Founding Member

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    no help?

    ok fine be that way!
  3. freakintiger New Member

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    Isn't it a cylinder(ball)hone? You attach it to a drill,etc..
  4. 140cilx Founding Member

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    I just get it perfectly clean, then use a hone lightly, then clean the fresh honed cylinders w/ oil until no more black residue collects on the rag.
  5. TurboFlush Founding Member

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    so I should just buy a cylinder Hone then?

    I know how to use the tool (they are the same, just diff stones), just cant remember what and when each one is to be used. I am guessing a Glaze breaker would be on a higher mileage motor that has a "glaze" on it. the hone would be to then smooth it back out and leave just a light cross hatch.

    does this sound right?

    When motor work is so expensive, you learn to do it yourself reall fast.


    I want that McLaren!!
  6. Stinger Founding Member

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    Don't get a ball hone...use a rigid stone hone.
  7. TurboFlush Founding Member

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    I will have to order one. but yah, rigid stone!
  8. Ray III New Member

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    I would recommend letting a machine shop do it with a torque plate for optimum ring sealing. I did my own hone job on one of my car engines (just a re-ring) and it burns a quart every 1000 miles cause it wasn't torque plate honed.
  9. TurboFlush Founding Member

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    you only need a torque plate if you are boring it out.
    All I am trying to do is return some sort of cross hatch pattern for oil sealing. Only scratch the surface.

    I will see how much they want though.
  10. Mike SVOR Founding Member

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    If you are only trying to scratch the surface to restore cross-hatch, a ball style hone is what you want.
    If you are trying to properly fit a piston into a new bore by determining it's piston to wall clearance, use a straight bar style hone.
  11. Ray III New Member

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    ok I would use a rigid hone when milling off a couple thousandths from cylinder wall either to top off the boring process, or to attempt to return a partially worn bore to perfectly cylindrical.

    To scratch the surface up WITHOUT altering its shape, the ball hone is more appropriate.

    I stand by my original statement of not using a rigid hone without a torque plate, because it WILL disturb the shape even if only a small mount. My dad and I have done a couple motors with just re-ring and rigid hone, and it just doesn't work out to a good seal.
  12. 140cilx Founding Member

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    strange, alway's has for me...

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