Few Questions

I just got a brand new 06 v6 auto and have a few questions since there isnt realy anyways to search this site.

1. Whats the best intake without reflashing the computer

2. Is it realy worth changing the underdrive pully? I know u get some hp how of it, but is there anything bad about changing it?

3. whats some other engine mods that dont cost to much that i should do? im kinda new to the v6. i used to have a crapy civic.
 
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nightkids1 said:
I just got a brand new 06 v6 auto and have a few questions since there isnt realy anyways to search this site.

1. Whats the best intake without reflashing the computer

2. Is it realy worth changing the underdrive pully? I know u get some hp how of it, but is there anything bad about changing it?

3. whats some other engine mods that dont cost to much that i should do? im kinda new to the v6. i used to have a crapy civic.
:rlaugh: theres a tab at the top of the page that says SEARCH!! :rlaugh:

it goes like this:
[USER CP][FAQ][MEMBERS][CALENDAR][NEWPOSTS] [SEARCH][QUICK LINKS][LOG OUT]

good luck with the search, it will give you tons of info.

welcome to :SNSign:
 
nightkids1 said:
I just got a brand new 06 v6 auto and have a few questions since there isnt realy anyways to search this site.

1. Whats the best intake without reflashing the computer

2. Is it realy worth changing the underdrive pully? I know u get some hp how of it, but is there anything bad about changing it?

3. whats some other engine mods that dont cost to much that i should do? im kinda new to the v6. i used to have a crapy civic.

1. Without a reflash, I'd say the best intake is the AFE (12 hp dyno proven without a tune)... the K&N (about 7 hp) comes in second in my book.

2. Doug at Bamachips has dyno'd a 4hp/6tq increase with a pulley. It would be one of the last mods I'd consider when I'm trying to sqeeze every last bit of hp out of her.

3. Some mods to consider would be opening up the exhaust with a more free flowing muffler... either a single axle-back like the Ford Racing (Borla), JBA, Magnaflow or GT take-off. Or, going for a cat-back dual system, like the JBA or Magnaflow. You'll probably get around 10 hp with any of these. Plus, a really nice, throaty sound. Of course, with a dual, you'll have to either notch your bumper for the driver side pipe or get a bumper for a GT. As cost is a factor, I'd probably go with the Borla single or the single GT take-off (very inexpensive, but sounds nice!).

Truthfully, an SCT X-cal 2 (or the original) with a tune from Doug at Bamachips or Lideo at Alternative Auto (there's a few other good tuners out there) would be the best bang for buck on an auto. It makes the car drive like it should have from the factory. After I used one of Doug's tunes, even the 87 octane tune, I could easily spin the tires at half-throttle from a dead stop. Combine this with an intake, like the C&L or Tunable Induction, and your car will be a different beast!

If you're really set on keeping the computer tune stock, stick with an AFE intake and any of the exhaust mods listed above.

Good luck!
 
nightkids1 said:
I just got a brand new 06 v6 auto and have a few questions since there isnt realy anyways to search this site.

1. Whats the best intake without reflashing the computer

2. Is it realy worth changing the underdrive pully? I know u get some hp how of it, but is there anything bad about changing it?

3. whats some other engine mods that dont cost to much that i should do? im kinda new to the v6. i used to have a crapy civic.

If you don't want to reflash your computer, your CAI options are K&N and AFE. K&N is like 7HP, AFE is 12. I had the AFE and it is dyno proven at 12.

On the UD pulley, some say there is slightly more muscle required turning the steering wheel at low speeds (i.e. parking lot), but I will defer to the two people I know that have them.

Best bang for the buck mods is a tuner to reflash your computer, adn for 560-600, your best bet is one of these combos:

1. C&L/XCAL2 from Alternative Auto (call Lideo at 586.463.0010)
2. TI/XCAL2/NKG Iridums (http://forums.stangnet.com/member.php?u=77066, he's running a special for $560 I think)
3. C&L/Xcal2 combo from Doug @ Bamachips (http://www.bamachips.com/)

Following this, I would get a less restrictive muffler. But after those combos above, your car will feel night and day. You won't believe it's only a 6 under the hood.

Oh, and I think Brenspeed has a combo, but not sure. Just ask around.

Finally, a CIVIC :jaw:
Well I am glad you crossed over, welcome to the club!!! :nice:
 
hamidlmt said:
1. Without a reflash, I'd say the best intake is the AFE (12 hp dyno proven without a tune)... the K&N (about 7 hp) comes in second in my book.

2. Doug at Bamachips has dyno'd a 4hp/6tq increase with a pulley. It would be one of the last mods I'd consider when I'm trying to sqeeze every last bit of hp out of her.

3. Some mods to consider would be opening up the exhaust with a more free flowing muffler... either a single axle-back like the Ford Racing (Borla), JBA, Magnaflow or GT take-off. Or, going for a cat-back dual system, like the JBA or Magnaflow. You'll probably get around 10 hp with any of these. Plus, a really nice, throaty sound. Of course, with a dual, you'll have to either notch your bumper for the driver side pipe or get a bumper for a GT. As cost is a factor, I'd probably go with the Borla single or the single GT take-off (very inexpensive, but sounds nice!).

Truthfully, an SCT X-cal 2 (or the original) with a tune from Doug at Bamachips or Lideo at Alternative Auto (there's a few other good tuners out there) would be the best bang for buck on an auto. It makes the car drive like it should have from the factory. After I used one of Doug's tunes, even the 87 octane tune, I could easily spin the tires at half-throttle from a dead stop. Combine this with an intake, like the C&L or Tunable Induction, and your car will be a different beast!

If you're really set on keeping the computer tune stock, stick with an AFE intake and any of the exhaust mods listed above.

Good luck!


LOL. Looks like we are on the same page as usual. :nice: I did enjoy my AFE when I had it!!!
 
nightkids1 said:
I just got a brand new 06 v6 auto and have a few questions since there isnt realy anyways to search this site.

1. Whats the best intake without reflashing the computer

2. Is it realy worth changing the underdrive pully? I know u get some hp how of it, but is there anything bad about changing it?

3. whats some other engine mods that dont cost to much that i should do? im kinda new to the v6. i used to have a crapy civic.


Your automatic is crying for an X-Cal2!!!! You will not believe the difference this will make to your car? Have you tried to do a burnout yet? (in a straight line?) Not really possible with the stock tune... Do you find the lag off the line annoying yet? Ever notice how your car doesn't seem to shift gears as much as slide from gear to gear?

Save your money... get an C&L CAI and X-Cal2 package... It will be an absolute night and day difference!
 
thanks for the replys, but i dont knbow of any tunners in so cali that will tune the car with the xcal2. i want to get that xcal2 since it sounds like everyone loves it, but unless someone is in so cali that knows how to use it i may just end up getting the k&n since i need carb since its cali and cops are ass's.
 
nightkids1 said:
thanks for the replys, but i dont knbow of any tunners in so cali that will tune the car with the xcal2. i want to get that xcal2 since it sounds like everyone loves it, but unless someone is in so cali that knows how to use it i may just end up getting the k&n since i need carb since its cali and cops are ass's.

When you buy from Alt. Auto (Lidio), Doug (Bamachips), John (TI) or Brenspeed, the tunes come with the SCT. They put thier tunes on it before they mail it to you. If you can use a tv remote control you can use a SCT. Putting the CAI on is really easy, basic hand tools is all you need.

Personally I am not too fond of the K&N if you are not going with a tuner cause it is only dyno proven at 7HP. I would get the AFE, its 12HP and only $200.
 
rygenstormlocke said:
When you buy from Alt. Auto (Lidio), Doug (Bamachips), John (TI) or Brenspeed, the tunes come with the SCT. They put thier tunes on it before they mail it to you. If you can use a tv remote control you can use a SCT. Putting the CAI on is really easy, basic hand tools is all you need.

Personally I am not too fond of the K&N if you are not going with a tuner cause it is only dyno proven at 7HP. I would get the AFE, its 12HP and only $200.

did you actually dyno the afe? I know you mentioned it... but i'm to darn lazy to go look for it... LOL
 
what do our cars start with on the dyno? cuz u said u pulled a 193.9 with the intake on and no tune, running slightly rich for your nitrous setup. what does it do running a good air/fuel mix with the plugs in along side the 87 and 91 tune?
 
Nightkids,

You definitely want to go with the SCT Xcal2, as people mentioned. This is especially true for owners of the automatic trans. For around $400 you get a bunch of performance enhancements which include...

1) An immediate and *noticeable* gain in HP and Torque, even with the "lower-octane" tunes (87 & 89). Check the dyno at alternative auto to see the difference.

2) Elimination of the wide open throttle (WOT) delay. Ford programmed an (approximately) 1.5 second delay before full throttle is applied. If you floor the pedal from a stop, you only get about 1/2 throttle for the first second or so. Supposed to protect the drivetrain, but the auto is the same one used in the GT which has 320 ft/lbs. It can even handle modified GT's power output (up to a point), so there is really no reason for the delay. It's extremely annoying. With the WOT delay gone, you will be able to spin the tire (only 1 until you get a LSD).

3) Reprogramming of the auto's shift points to a more aggressive setup. This alone can/will improve your acceleration runs by allowing the engine to rev higher before shifting, plus, making the shifts quicker/firmer. Stock, the clutches/bands slip a bit to make the shifts smooth. The tuner can make the shifts immediate and firm. This may even be better for the lifespan since slipping a clutch tends to wear the plates faster.

4) Recalibration of the speedometer to accommidate different size wheels or tires. You will need this if you get plus size wheels/tires.

I think there are additional benifits, like data logging (to aid in performance analysis), engine diagnostic functions, etc. As far as engine performance is concerned, this is absolutely to best bang-for-the-buck. Plus, you will need one to maximize your performance gains from other mods (CAI, exhaust, head work, etc.)

However, all "tunes" (the computer reprogramming provided by the Xcal2) are not created equal. Make sure you get one from Lidio, Doug or other "StangNet-approved" dealer.

Good driving pony brother!
 
NJstangpilot said:
Nightkids,

You definitely want to go with the SCT Xcal2, as people mentioned. This is especially true for owners of the automatic trans. For around $400 you get a bunch of performance enhancements which include...

1) An immediate and *noticeable* gain in HP and Torque, even with the "lower-octane" tunes (87 & 89). Check the dyno at alternative auto to see the difference.

2) Elimination of the wide open throttle (WOT) delay. Ford programmed an (approximately) 1.5 second delay before full throttle is applied. If you floor the pedal from a stop, you only get about 1/2 throttle for the first second or so. Supposed to protect the drivetrain, but the auto is the same one used in the GT which has 320 ft/lbs. It can even handle modified GT's power output (up to a point), so there is really no reason for the delay. It's extremely annoying. With the WOT delay gone, you will be able to spin the tire (only 1 until you get a LSD).

3) Reprogramming of the auto's shift points to a more aggressive setup. This alone can/will improve your acceleration runs by allowing the engine to rev higher before shifting, plus, making the shifts quicker/firmer. Stock, the clutches/bands slip a bit to make the shifts smooth. The tuner can make the shifts immediate and firm. This may even be better for the lifespan since slipping a clutch tends to wear the plates faster.

4) Recalibration of the speedometer to accommidate different size wheels or tires. You will need this if you get plus size wheels/tires.

I think there are additional benifits, like data logging (to aid in performance analysis), engine diagnostic functions, etc. As far as engine performance is concerned, this is absolutely to best bang-for-the-buck. Plus, you will need one to maximize your performance gains from other mods (CAI, exhaust, head work, etc.)

However, all "tunes" (the computer reprogramming provided by the Xcal2) are not created equal. Make sure you get one from Lidio, Doug or other "StangNet-approved" dealer.

Good driving pony brother!


Lots of good info here!!! I had Lidio set my shift firmness to "Barbaric"... Really snaps your head back now! LOL! That change alone shaved about .25 off my 0-60!

Now one thing about the auto tranny... while the GT and the V6 auto tranny are the same code/model number they are slight difference... The couple I know of is the input shaft on the V6 is smaller and there is also a difference in the clutch pack... That being said my tranny seems to be holding up just fine and i'm running probably close to 450ft/lbs through it... (384 at the RW)...
 
red05v6stang said:
what do our cars start with on the dyno? cuz u said u pulled a 193.9 with the intake on and no tune, running slightly rich for your nitrous setup. what does it do running a good air/fuel mix with the plugs in along side the 87 and 91 tune?


I will know next week, when Excessive gets the rest of my Zex kit installed. I will have them create a street tune, a track tune and I will also have John D's (TI) tune as well.
 
scrming said:
did you actually dyno the afe? I know you mentioned it... but i'm to darn lazy to go look for it... LOL

Yes I did actually, but it was also with my magnaflows and no tune. On that run I was 16HP over stock. I got like 15 dyno sheets from Excessive, so I will have another look. Afixer was the test mule for it as well and he posted dynos. He watched it happen did a detailed thread on it a year ago.

Unfortunately once you get to professional tunes the AFE is not as competitive cause it uses the stock MAF tube. But according to Afixer they are comming out with a stage 2 and will be selling the tube by itself to existing customers.
 
rygenstormlocke said:
Yes I did actually, but it was also with my magnaflows and no tune. On that run I was 16HP over stock. I got like 15 dyno sheets from Excessive, so I will have another look. Afixer was the test mule for it as well and he posted dynos. He watched it happen did a detailed thread on it a year ago.

Unfortunately once you get to professional tunes the AFE is not as competitive cause it uses the stock MAF tube. But according to Afixer they are comming out with a stage 2 and will be selling the tube by itself to existing customers.

Ok... see that's the thing... with just my single magnaflow, gears and track lock I was at 184RWHP... which is about 14RWHP of stock... Now the gears can actually cause the HP to appear lower... And this was with no tune... So you can see why I have my doubts about the AFE picking up 12RWHP... just seems a bit unrealistic...
 
scrming said:
Ok... see that's the thing... with just my single magnaflow, gears and track lock I was at 184RWHP... which is about 14RWHP of stock... Now the gears can actually cause the HP to appear lower... And this was with no tune... So you can see why I have my doubts about the AFE picking up 12RWHP... just seems a bit unrealistic...

Understood, and I see where you are comming from. My problem is I got the sheet with the magnaflows as well, so can't tell what they are really giving me. I doubt I am getting more than 6-8 from them.

I will search for Afixers dyno as well, I know he posted it way back.
 
rygenstormlocke said:
Understood, and I see where you are comming from. My problem is I got the sheet with the magnaflows as well, so can't tell what they are really giving me. I doubt I am getting more than 6-8 from them.

I will search for Afixers dyno as well, I know he posted it way back.

Here, try this. Been a long while since I read this one:

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_564619/mpage_1/key_AFE/tm.htm#564619
 
rygenstormlocke said:
Here, try this. Been a long while since I read this one:

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_564619/mpage_1/key_AFE/tm.htm#564619

hmmmm... read the thread... something is just not adding up... notice how there is a significant gain through the entire RPM range.. Just doesn't seem possible to see those kinds of gains at the low RPMs... I'ld really like to see some independent testing... Nothing against afixer (who's a great guy!) but... in my head something is off here... perhaps the way the dynos were run.. ???

BTW... Lidio did document a 10RWHP by going to GT muffler takes offs.. I think the Magnaflows straight-thru design is probably a little better than the GT muffler... that's why I say my Magnaflow is probably good for around 10... although I appear to have a 10 to 14RHWP gain from just the muffler...
 
scrming said:
hmmmm... read the thread... something is just not adding up... notice how there is a significant gain through the entire RPM range.. Just doesn't seem possible to see those kinds of gains at the low RPMs... I'ld really like to see some independent testing... Nothing against afixer (who's a great guy!) but... in my head something is off here... perhaps the way the dynos were run.. ???

BTW... Lidio did document a 10RWHP by going to GT muffler takes offs.. I think the Magnaflows straight-thru design is probably a little better than the GT muffler... that's why I say my Magnaflow is probably good for around 10... although I appear to have a 10 to 14RHWP gain from just the muffler...

Will do, you know, I sold my AFE to ChrisC on mustangforums.com. I wonder if he will dyno it?