For those of you with experience pulling/building/swapping engines-

OK fellas and ladies, I'm really close to pulling the trigger on a Windsor build for my '86. I've even gone as far as to locate a '95 F-350 donor in a local salvage yard that I'm confident with the condition of the shortblock.

But before I jump into this, I need some advice from those of you who have experience with this sort of thing. Here is my situation:

I'm financially prepared to build a BUDGET 351. Please don't anyone come in here telling me I need to build a Dart block 427, or even buy a crate motor from CHP or Ford Strokers. That isn't what I'm after for the time being. Also, I've done the homework and have the mechanical skill to pull this off, so I'm not worried about that.

I have a 1-car garage space with a decent supply of hand/power tools. I do not yet have an engine stand, but I'm willing to buy one and rent a hoist. I do have access to a pickup truck to transport the engine from the JY to home/machine shop/wherever.

Questions:

Is it realistic to think that I can do this in a 1 car garage?

Is it realistic to think that I can build a reliable shortblock for less than a grand? I'm going with stock crank and rods, but probably will be going with aftermarket forged pistons. I'll be doing most of the work myself except for machining.

Is it very difficult to manipulate a 500 lb slug of cast iron? Do I need to bring the engine stand to the JY and just mount it up right away? Outside of renting an engine hoist, I DO NOT have access to any heavy lifting equipment.


Any and all experiences and advice that you guys can offer up would be greatly appreciated.

I'm pulling my motor next week and I have a 0 car garage, so it can be done in a 1 car. You should be fine laying the motor in the truck bed just put it on the stand when you get home(someone will have other suggestions) shortblock can be build for 1k or less, what are your goals for the motor? If you don't care about power cheap pistons and rods are available, as well as rebuild kits. Decent forged pistons will be anywhere from $50-150/per piston. Your stand and hoist will be on wheels are aren't extremely difficult to roll.



Or you can go with a dart 408 with afrs and then you'll want a .....just kidding

good luck

I have a 1 car garage and yes it is feasible to do the work in that space.
yes you can build a stockish short block for under a grand
no, you should not have to bring a stand or hoist, but I would call just for clarification.
just find a stand that is rated for the 500lbs or so and you should be good.
as to the build I think on a n/a car(not sure what route you are looking at) stock internals would be good to around 500 or so. I would focus on heads and intake. There are 351's making around 400 or so to the wheels with the right top end parts.
351 with 302 top ends make 302 power. Just me talking though.

Most junkyards have a hoist you can borrow. use the hoist, load it into your transportation, and when you get to your house use a rented or borrowed hoist to put it on a stand. You can pick it up and put it on a stand with like 3 people but its not fun.

If you are doing a budget build the most expensive part is going to be the machine shop, because you have to drop all that money at once. But I still think you can do it for around a grand, even if it goes over the smaller parts can be done over time, doesnt have to be done all at once if you dont have the flow.

It will be tight in a 1 car garage but its doable. You will most likely be around 1k to redo the bottom end the right way. You could do it for less if the cyclinders can just be honed instead of bored.

It is easy to pull install it, you can do it in a one car garage, and like said before it will be around 1k to go through the bottom end.

In addition to everything said here, i would recommend you get some greasemonkey friends to come and help out. You have everything you need to do it right, but dont try doing it alone!

i've done it in a one car garage before. a little crammed but easily done still. you can easily rebuild the bottom end with 1k too. like droptop said, the machine work is gonna cost the most. you can get bearings, rings, and gaskets for less than $300; and that's going with moly rings and P series clevite bearings.

+1 for one car garage

Did a complete drivetrain swap, suspension, front sheetmetal, etc etc. All while the engine was on a stand in the corner of the garage.

realistically, you will nee an engine hoist for about 4 hours. Thats providing you have the new engine ready to go in.

Trust me on this, i ripped my old engine out went to borrow the hoist, and had it back to the guy in under 90 minutes. Too bad he didnt take me up on the bet.

i have my shop but i rarely pull it inside, i did my engine install by myself, outside with no help, what a **** that was

OK, OK, very encouraging so far. Keep the advice coming, I'll take all I can get.

FYI, I'm looking to go with stock rods with upgraded fasteners and forged pistons for a 9.0-9.5 CR, because the engine will eventually see some boost, but I don't want to to be a slouch NA either. I've heard of similar setups holding up to 600-700 HP, so I'm sure this engine would keep me satisfied at least for a little while.

If your going to boost it I would shoot for about 8.5:1 compression. 9-9.5 is pushing it IMO.

i would look around for someone abandoning there 357 or 408 build, there are tons on CL and other forums

agreed. saw a 408 shortblock go for 2900 recently

Not if I'm only looking for 8-10psi. Like I said, I don't want it to be a slouch NA, because it will probably be without boost for a couple years. I just want the option to be there.

I have kinda been shopping around, but I've found that people want too much for their used junk, and there doesn't seem to be a lot of people here in Indiana with what I'm looking for. That, and I want the satisfaction of doing it myself.

That's about 1900 dollars more than I want to spend. See first post.

I think you may be approaching 1500 when it is all said and done….do you plan to reuse lifters, pushrods, rocker assy, cam, and timing set?

recon rods
check bores in block
hone
clean block
install cam bearings
install galley plugs
clean and polish crank
balance crank for new pistons
deck block
I would guess that would be around ~$600 where I live. Add another ~$250 more for boring block and grinding crank.

Sealed Power forged pistons, rings, wrist pins, oil pump, bearings, and gaskets from Summit is $509.95, cast will be $279.95. This is based on 69-86 351W, I have no idea what 95 351W kit would cost.

I am thinking you may be closer to 1500 especially with forged pistons when it is all said and done.


Scott

why are you so shure you need to rebuild the short block??????? Here's what i did in my 1 car garage!
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/797630-my-new-project.html
oh yeah i also did this to in my 1 car garage and it cost me $5000 including the cost of the engine,i didnt touch the bottom end
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/751223-my-351-build-pics.html
so yeah it can be done! peace




john

i do 98% of my work alone in a 1 car garage on top of that! peace




john

I have a hoist if you need to borrow it. Im 5 mins. South of Greenwood in Whiteland.